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  • Mushy brakes

    Disk front, drum rear. Fluid looks full but pedal goes dang near to the floor. Whats the fix on this?

  • #2
    Air in the lines? I bled the fluid in my 05 Excape and the pedal felt much better.
    Last edited by Leah; Yesterday at 10:18 PM.

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    • #3
      Master cylinder.

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      • #4
        Having the same issue. Master cylinder is probably out. Easy to replace on my 86. Ran out of brake fluid to do a proper bleeding last night after replacing mine.

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        • #5
          Same issue on my Bronco.. I figured it was the vacuum booster, but what to I know.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Chili View Post
            Same issue on my Bronco.. I figured it was the vacuum booster, but what to I know.
            Usually when the vacuum booster goes out it makes the pedal very hard. If there's no leaks and the fluid in the m/c is not low, soft pedal is usually air in the lines or the m/c has gone bad. I had the exact same thing going on and will be changing my m/c tomorrow.
            Atlantic Blue '00 - '03 Cobra motor and TKO600, solid axle, full MM suspension
            Silver '01 Vette - D1 blown LS

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Trick Pony View Post
              Usually when the vacuum booster goes out it makes the pedal very hard. If there's no leaks and the fluid in the m/c is not low, soft pedal is usually air in the lines or the m/c has gone bad. I had the exact same thing going on and will be changing my m/c tomorrow.
              I may have to replace that then. Mine was replaced about 3 years ago (by the PO) but it is a reman, which I know can have issues.

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              • #8
                bench bleed the MC

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                • #9
                  Ok thanks all. How do u bleed a mc... I very bled one, nor have i bled brakes either.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Tannerm View Post
                    Ok thanks all. How do u bleed a mc... I very bled one, nor have i bled brakes either.
                    The last one I bought had instructions on how to bleed the mc. Bleeding the brakes is simple. Someone needs to pump the brake pedal 3 or 4 times, hold down, while you open the bleeder valve. Do that until no air is coming out. Move on to next one.

                    On a mustang, you start from the passenger rear, to the driverside rear, front passenger, front driverside.

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                    • #11
                      Go to Harbor Freight and get a one man bleeder kit. They are 4.99 and every system I have bled with them works fantastic. It took me about 15minutes to completely bleed my F350 and it would throw you thru the windshield when I was done. It had all new calipers, hoses, lines, etc.

                      Bleed as he said above. passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front. I usually pump three to five times per wheel and do it twice. No helper needed and it works great just check you mc fluid level after each wheel.

                      Dont skimp on the pads either. Hawk are bad ass, wagner work great, ceramic are pretty good but the cheapos suck ass and you will never have great breaks. Spend at least 30 bucks on the mid grades.

                      I had a 97 Ford on 37's that wouldnt stop for shit when I bought it. It had all new stuff on the front with new rotors. All I did was throw some Hawk pads on it and it would lock them up. Went from no brakes to bad ass brakes. I may not be great on motor builds but I can fix some brakes and electrical stuff. LOL
                      Last edited by kingjason; 12-30-2010, 06:24 PM.
                      Whos your Daddy?

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                      • #12
                        Did the brakes just recently do this? One day fine, then bam.. low pedal?

                        Usually the causes for low brake pedal is air in the system, improperly adjusted rear brakes (drum set up), master cylinder bypassing a circuit.
                        Some cars and a bike...

                        Some say... they have been raced, some a lot

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                        • #13
                          Also need to tell us what it's on, could make a difference. Could be an ABS problem (RABS valves would by-pass too) rear brakes out of adjustment. Can never get enough info for us...
                          sigpic

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                          • #14
                            The best way to tell if there is air in the lines is a simple procedure assuming the drum brakes are adjusted.

                            1 Pump brakes about 10 times and hold down/
                            2 Have and assistant remove the M/C cover.
                            3 Release pedal. If the fluid geysers out of the M/C then there is air in that part of system.

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                            • #15
                              Pretty sure it's on his '67 Fairlane




                              Originally posted by Rustang View Post
                              Also need to tell us what it's on, could make a difference. Could be an ABS problem (RABS valves would by-pass too) rear brakes out of adjustment. Can never get enough info for us...

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