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Starting problems...need some advice

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  • #16
    Originally posted by jyro View Post
    by chance will the voltage go up when you rev it up
    ^^^

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    • #17
      Have you been driving with this 3g swap or is this new?

      Even though it's a "1 wire" hookup, you still have 3 more wires.

      The 3 prong plug needs to be hooked up.

      The center wire, "S" terminal needs to loop back to the single spade connector on the alternator.

      The "A" terminal needs a constant 12 source. This can be hooked directly to the positive post on the alternator.

      Thirdly, the last terminal, "I" needs to see a Switched 12v source. It's important because this "switches" the alternator "ON". This is generally powered by wiring it through the factory gage. It can be connected to the ignition if needed but should be used with an inline resistor or light bulb.


      So check the wires and for the appropriate voltage and this will at least tell you if it's wired right.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by homealone View Post
        Have you been driving with this 3g swap or is this new?

        Even though it's a "1 wire" hookup, you still have 3 more wires.

        The 3 prong plug needs to be hooked up.

        The center wire, "S" terminal needs to loop back to the single spade connector on the alternator.

        The "A" terminal needs a constant 12 source. This can be hooked directly to the positive post on the alternator.

        Thirdly, the last terminal, "I" needs to see a Switched 12v source. It's important because this "switches" the alternator "ON". This is generally powered by wiring it through the factory gage. It can be connected to the ignition if needed but should be used with an inline resistor or light bulb.


        So check the wires and for the appropriate voltage and this will at least tell you if it's wired right.


        Ya, I swapped all this stuff almost 4 years ago! It's worked perfect until then. All this started happening the other day when I was in traffic. It's only gotten worse since then. (Doesn't want to keep the battery charged) the alternator is about 4 years old and the battery is going on 3 years

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        • #19
          My guess would be the alternator. When the rear bearings inside the alt. start to go, the rotor starts to wobble and breaks the magnetic field. You will find it will charge at certain rpms and not others. Replacing the alternator is the fix.

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          • #20
            I had a similar problem in my 5.0 coupe a few years ago. It ended up being a weak ground strap going to the engine block. I replaced the battery and alternator before I found the problem.
            1997 viper gts
            1986 turbo mustang
            1987 Buick grand national
            1972 nova

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            • #21
              Originally posted by S_K View Post
              My guess would be the alternator. When the rear bearings inside the alt. start to go, the rotor starts to wobble and breaks the magnetic field. You will find it will charge at certain rpms and not others. Replacing the alternator is the fix.

              Possibly the culprit! :/

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              • #22
                I haven't touched my ground straps.. And actually I took a bunch my ground and all the connections off the starter solenoid and sanded them to a shiny clean surface...so I don't think it's a grounding or connection problem

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by 86lxttop View Post
                  I haven't touched my ground straps.. And actually I took a bunch my ground and all the connections off the starter solenoid and sanded them to a shiny clean surface...so I don't think it's a grounding or connection problem
                  You have a charging issue, not a starting issue. The ground could be bad anywhere between the battery and the alternator.

                  How to test for a bad ground 101...

                  1. Get a large gauge wire and attach one end to the negative battery terminal. (Jumper cables are good for this)
                  2. Take a multimeter and set it to the lowest OHM scale,
                  3. Measure from the other end back to the negative battery terminal. (reading should be 3 ohms or less)
                  4. Record this reading. This establishes a baseline or "true zero"
                  5. Now test your ground at the far end (the case of the alternator in this instance)
                  6. The reading should be a few ohms higher, but not much.
                  7. If it is, work you way backwards towards the battery. (alternator support bracket, engine block, engine ground strap, ground cable from front to rear of the car, until you find the culprit. There may be more than one.

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                  • #24
                    Did this ever get fixed?
                    sigpic

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                    • #25
                      sort of... still has a slightly low volt gauge. I think my positive battery terminal I replaced before all of this didn't have a good connection. Terminal was actually too big and not clamping down on the cable hard enough..

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