Opinions on NE Strut tower brace

[aggie97]

I think I'll probably end up the a PHB. A little cheaper, and I won't be a 100% race car. At least not for a while. I might put a 6.0 in it after a while.

Lsx? If so read the rules for the class you plan on entering. Might not be legal

[Mr. Red Pony]

Yes. LSx.

[aggie97]

Yes. LSx.

Non oem engine swaps will limit which class u can run in. Also, due to required oilpan mods, i have yet to see some make an ls motor last in a mustang on a road race car

[Mr. Red Pony]

Well I still have to figure out what I want to do. I may do a SBF, I may do a 4v.

[VaderTT]

Non oem engine swaps will limit which class u can run in. Also, due to required oilpan mods, i have yet to see some make an ls motor last in a mustang on a road race car

Agreed on the class limitations.

Lsx motors are pretty cool for the money though. You can still get a complete lq4/9 for $800 or cheaper.

But I would leave the pan stock, mod the k or cross member and use the Improved Racing baffle. People have gone well over 1g with them.

http://www.vorshlag.smugmug.com/Projects/New-LS2-Motor-Install-into-E36/7972177_72qhDL/1/517898397_RG3eX#!i=517898397&k=RG3eX

[aggie97]

Agreed on the class limitations.

Lsx motors are pretty cool for the money though. You can still get a complete lq4/9 for $800 or cheaper.

But I would leave the pan stock, mod the k or cross member and use the Improved Racing baffle. People have gone well over 1g with them.

http://www.vorshlag.smugmug.com/Proj...898397&k=RG3eX

yeah, the LS6 in my wife's camaro is fine. It runs hot as shit but otherwise fine. The oil pan has to be cut and made smaller which kills capacity and drain back and the motors last minutes....not miles in mustangs. One guy went through 5 in one weekend never getting a timed lap.

If you want to do a motor swap for a road race mustang, build an all aluminum 2V with the Trick flow heads and plastic intake. Lightest, most reliable setup you can do as long as you don't need to go beyond 350rwhp.

Or...just buy my car! It's a steal at $20,000 with a TON of fresh parts. I want a GTA stock car.

[Mr. Red Pony]

Thanks for all the tips. I might look into a 2v now.

[dville_gt]

The oil pan has to be cut and made smaller which kills capacity and drain back and the motors last minutes....not miles in mustangs. One guy went through 5 in one weekend never getting a timed lap.

i'm on a stock cts-v pan (6qt), tons of folks on stock f-body pans (5.5qt), and you are saying one guy went through 5 motors in one weekend?

[VaderTT]

Oh and a lot of people run accusumps.

[Snatch Napkin]

If you want to do a motor swap for a road race mustang, build an all aluminum 2V with the Trick flow heads and plastic intake. Lightest, most reliable setup you can do as long as you don't need to go beyond 350rwhp.

Is it lighter than the Coyote 5.0? They can be had fairly cheap, IMO. Crate motors are going for $6k and the stand alone computer isn't terribly priced either. It will have more power, last longer, and safely go to 7,000rpm in stock form.

i'm on a stock cts-v pan (6qt), tons of folks on stock f-body pans (5.5qt), and you are saying one guy went through 5 motors in one weekend?

Yours will never see lateral g forces that could hurt your motor.

[Mr. Red Pony]

I'm not grasping the concept of the Jacobs ladder. How about a pic of it. Nothing helpful on google.

[racrguy]

I'm not grasping the concept of the Jacobs ladder. How about a pic of it. Nothing helpful on google.

You won't be able to use it in your car. I drive a sprint car. Completely different animal. But here's a picture from an old car I used to drive.

[Mr. Red Pony]

I figured I wouldn't be able too.. All the text was about sprint cars. So do you use one of those bird cage things too?

[racrguy]

I figured I wouldn't be able too.. All the text was about sprint cars. So do you use one of those bird cage things too?

One on each side, but yes. They're essentially the wheel bearings for the rear axle.

[aggie97]

i'm on a stock cts-v pan (6qt), tons of folks on stock f-body pans (5.5qt), and you are saying one guy went through 5 motors in one weekend?

Yep! it was a 4 day weekend but yeah, pretty sure it was 5...

oil temps usually kill them, but a lot of LS1's lose oil pressure in sustained high g turns and trash the bottom ends. Other times they break ring lands on the stock pistons with high mileage. And accusumps don't save em. best bet is a REAL dry sump and NOT the LS7 setup. Katech also makes a nice oil pump that helps a little but isn't the fix all.

As for the Coyote motors in a road race car, they are dying as well. Only the Boss motor with the forged internals is lasting on track and it is a LOT more than the Coyote crate motor!

Honestly, when you start making over 330rwhp, engines start letting go when pushed on the road course. I'd rather keep chipping away at the weight than spend money on horsepower....and my 6 year old motor is about to get a 7th season of abuse dropped on it in a couple weeks! Keep it simple!