steeda X2 balljoints....?

[CYAZ06]

Trust me, I have more than paid my share to play. this car is arguably one of the fastest American Iron cars in the country. Just tired of spending money on it to fix little issues due to parts incompatibility.

anyway, beware of the bumpsteer kits. while they help with the tramlining on the street, they are really unstable under hard cornering and certainly under braking. If the bump steer stack is longer than about 2", the bolt and steering knuckle/spindle flex so much you get a heavy vibration in the steering wheel. I ended up shortening my stack which was over 4" long, and saying the hell with bumpsteer as it actually creates ackerman while cornering and effectively turns the inside wheel more. Sucks on really bumpy tracks sometimes but you get over it. for most street uses they should be fine....but on a dedicated road course/track car I would keep it to a minimum.

I have a stack of less then 1 inch......oh yeah....I have an SLA! So Roll Center is easy for me. LOL.

Just playing with you Matt!

Are you just looking for some stock SN95 ball joints? I may have some in the shop.

[Grape]

suspension is overrated on track cars, get it on the ground riding on stops.

[aggie97]

suspension is overrated on track cars, get it on the ground riding on stops.

then I would be on here asking where to buy a durometer to test the hardness of urethane bushings!

Loren, just wait till the track guys event and see if that extra 100hp helps you! I hope to have my hooptie ready to give all you guys with shiney new toys a serious run for your money! Can't wait to get this thing back on track after all the upgrades!

[aggie97]

Are you just looking for some stock SN95 ball joints? I may have some in the shop.

Nope. Had to lose the drop spindles and need a taller ball joint like the x2... I plan on going through smiley's on Saturday to see if there is anything I can use there...even if I have to modify the lower control arms, I am sure there is something there for less than $20 I can use.

[CYAZ06]

then I would be on here asking where to buy a durometer to test the hardness of urethane bushings!

Loren, just wait till the track guys event and see if that extra 100hp helps you! I hope to have my hooptie ready to give all you guys with shiney new toys a serious run for your money! Can't wait to get this thing back on track after all the upgrades!

Should be a blast. Gonna go dyno it next week to lean it out a little......running way to rich, and also see what the final numbers are. Last time we dynoed it the hp was still climbing at 6000. Gonna spin it to about 6700 and see.......

At least Wayne in is S will give you someone to play with

[CYAZ06]

Nope. Had to lose the drop spindles and need a taller ball joint like the x2... I plan on going through smiley's on Saturday to see if there is anything I can use there...even if I have to modify the lower control arms, I am sure there is something there for less than $20 I can use.

If anyone has them, or can get them, they do. Plenty of control arms there too......

[Long Stroke]

anyway, beware of the bumpsteer kits. while they help with the tramlining on the street, they are really unstable under hard cornering and certainly under braking. If the bump steer stack is longer than about 2", the bolt and steering knuckle/spindle flex so much you get a heavy vibration in the steering wheel.

Thats the problem with some of the cheaper kits out there. You don't want to use a bolt. Steeda's kit is designed with the same taper as the OEM tie rod. We make the tapered studs in house out of 4140 chrome moly and after machining they go to heat treat and then plate and bake. There is no deflection in them what so ever. It's hardened chrome moly, it will break before it bends. In the 9 years we have been making them and the 10,000+ kits sold there has never been a failure.

Former American Iron Champion Robin Burnett runs our bump steer and X5's on his 2010 Mustang.

[Mach1]

Thats the problem with some of the cheaper kits out there. You don't want to use a bolt. Steeda's kit is designed with the same taper as the OEM tie rod. We make the tapered studs in house out of 4140 chrome moly and after machining they go to heat treat and then plate and bake. There is no deflection in them what so ever. It's hardened chrome moly, it will break before it bends. In the 9 years we have been making them and the 10,000+ kits sold there has never been a failure.

Former American Iron Champion Robin Burnett runs our bump steer and X5's on his 2010 Mustang.

Thats a nice ass AI car!

I just spent $1600 on a diff(OS Giken), sucks, I didn't want to throw down that much jack, but you gotta pay to play, maybe the ball joint's are the same situation

[aggie97]

Thats the problem with some of the cheaper kits out there. You don't want to use a bolt. Steeda's kit is designed with the same taper as the OEM tie rod. We make the tapered studs in house out of 4140 chrome moly and after machining they go to heat treat and then plate and bake. There is no deflection in them what so ever. It's hardened chrome moly, it will break before it bends. In the 9 years we have been making them and the 10,000+ kits sold there has never been a failure.

Former American Iron Champion Robin Burnett runs our bump steer and X5's on his 2010 Mustang.

The bolt through design offers a better solution when the tapered part is too long and needs to be cut off. It's also easier to work on while at the track. with the drop spindles, the tapered stud hits the wheel and therefore you need a really sort bump stack. I even had to clearance the head of the bolt as even a standard nut would contact the wheel. For street stuff, the tapered stud is fine. As far as the bolt through design being cheap....I bet maximum motorsports would love to duke it out with ya about that! The spindle still flexes and wobbles with that long lever arm regardless of what it is made of. Bump steer kits are nice and all but that tall stack puts a hell of a twist on the steering knuckle when you load the car with 1.5g to 2.0g in a turn with a real tire. It's the same principal with that taller ball joint. That is the reason I am considering the modified control arm and stock shorter ball joint. If I break a steeda joint at the track, I can't get one. If I break a $10 joint from smileys, i can have 10 of them in the spares box and make the 2nd race in the day.

[aggie97]

I just spent $1600 on a diff(OS Giken), sucks, I didn't want to throw down that much jack, but you gotta pay to play, maybe the ball joint's are the same situation

That's a lot for a diff....an eaton would have been just fine.

[Grape]

all you have to do is be able to weld and own a tapered reamer.........oh wait, that's cheating. If this shit paid, people like me would get interested lol.

[Cheezebandit]

The bolt through design offers a better solution when the tapered part is too long and needs to be cut off. It's also easier to work on while at the track. with the drop spindles, the tapered stud hits the wheel and therefore you need a really sort bump stack. I even had to clearance the head of the bolt as even a standard nut would contact the wheel. For street stuff, the tapered stud is fine. As far as the bolt through design being cheap....I bet maximum motorsports would love to duke it out with ya about that! The spindle still flexes and wobbles with that long lever arm regardless of what it is made of. Bump steer kits are nice and all but that tall stack puts a hell of a twist on the steering knuckle when you load the car with 1.5g to 2.0g in a turn with a real tire. It's the same principal with that taller ball joint. That is the reason I am considering the modified control arm and stock shorter ball joint. If I break a steeda joint at the track, I can't get one. If I break a $10 joint from smileys, i can have 10 of them in the spares box and make the 2nd race in the day.

when I was working for a local shop I had a guy come in asking what he fucked up after a curb check ...06 GT that had steeda ball joints and one of them was bent at a 45*angle ...