Traction Bar Help '66 coup

[Kart21]

This is old school. 1966 coup. Setting it up to run Vintage roadracing, Addco sway bars front and back, matched, rear Lincoln dics, 25 gal. fuel cell w/steel can, panhard bar welded in. 4 and 1/2 leaf springs, battery will be in the back. 8 point cage. 9 inch posi, 3.89 gears.

Using the underide Shelby type traction bars, ( mounts to u-bolts and welds to a pad in front of the spring ) do I need to preload the springs when I weld them in. Howmuch?

The car currently doesn't have the motor in it or the 2 front seats. The interior is empty except for the aluminum panal where the rear seat was at.

My thoughts is to put about 200 lbs? in the back and weld away.

Any input guys would be nice as I really would like to wrap up the back end of the car next week when I'm on vacation.

[Baron Von Crowder]

I'm no expert, but years ago I ran "slappers" on a '68.5 428CJ coupe. I set them at about 1". I tried several different variations, but over an inch, the springs would wind up some and when the slappers hit, it was kind of violent (for lack of a better term) and the car would break loose. They were actually quite effective on the street and the few times we were at the strip.

He's talking about the Shelby underriders, they are more like a lower control arm than a slapper due to both ends being affixed to either the axle or the chassis.

[Vertnut]

He's talking about the Shelby underriders, they are more like a lower control arm than a slapper due to both ends being affixed to either the axle or the chassis.

Ah...deleted. Getting old sucks.

[Kart21]

He's talking about the Shelby underriders, they are more like a lower control arm than a slapper due to both ends being affixed to either the axle or the chassis.

Yep, spot on with the underriders.