that fusebox location isn't going to work when you put the a/c box back in
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1990 Coupe - 'budget' turbo kit
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Originally posted by SOLOW55 View PostWhen you POR15 the cage did you use the metal ready spray first ? I know that stuff doesn't like clean metal to stick to .
I scrubbed the cage bars with maroon scotch brite and lacquer thinner for prep.
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Quite a bit done since the last update, but not all shown in this post. As I said earlier, the wiring for the majority of the chassis is done, but now it's complete. No pics of that. I can say that there's a HUGE amount of stock wires that can be removed in a car like this. I think there's a grand total of 5-6 wires that go to the back of the car now. You can see in the first pic. Also shown are the new brake lines, sway bar installed and some more torque box welding was done too. If you look REAL close, you can see the bars off of the cage sticking through the upper torque box.
last but not least, the tubing nightmare that is under the drivers side fender. It's the proportioning valve, line lock and brake switch all in one.
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Originally posted by kbscobravert View PostSo what is next?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I957 using Tapatalk
I have some work to do this week- so won't get much done on the car. Next weekend bieng the cruise pretty much rules Saturday out too.
I was going to put the dash in, but have to adjust/change the brake rod - so that might not happen yet.
I have a large list of shit to do
*Fire system mount
*seat brackets
*trunk floor/fuel cell mount
*fuel pump mount
*plumbing
*accessory wiring
*fender aprons
*boost controller
*exhaust
*paint cage
*seat belt mounts
...and the list goes on and on.
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I bet without the trunk floor pan being there it made installing that sway bar a lot easier. I jus helped a buddy install a Wolfe double sway bar on my 95 that wasnt too much of a pain, but I notice where you have the tabs welded on the tubes are more at a angle than mine. What's a good amount of clearance between the sway bar arms and the floor pan?
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