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  • #31
    Originally posted by turbostang View Post
    Not in my experience - The only time the gun is 'hot' is when you're on the trigger and for a very short time after you let go of it. It appears that the large roll of wire acts as a coil and temporarily stores some energy..at least till you ground it out (makes it appear hot), or till you weld again (then it's hot after again).

    For me, those autodarkening helmets are 'gimicky'. I learn a lot from an old schooler and he used a cheap, old, beat up helmet (at the time our work was not conducive to having a nice helmet). The other thing was, as Brent mentioned, I can't trust thier darkening ability because of things like dead batteries, obstructed optical sensors that cause it to not darken.. etc.
    so what will be the proper procedure for removing gun? just pull away?

    i know when i used paul's welder it would only spark when i got on the trigger so when i let go i was able to remove gun with out anything getting stuck...

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    • #32
      Originally posted by junior View Post
      really? Brooks actually recommends not using one so i ordered a regular non auto from fastenal for $25



      like i said Brooks actually likes the other one better so for right now im going to try the non auto

      i also will be using flux wire so i dont have to deal with gas till i get the hang of it a little bit more.
      My recommendation is purely because of me - I like simplicity. Also, if you do any work that may make you in an odd position, you can block the sensor and the lense will not darken. I do a LOT of that kind of work.

      Also, flux core will make your life difficult. I HIGHLY recommend getting gas to learn with.

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      • #33
        The best way to learn, is to crawl into a car...upside down......with your head under the dash.....and shifter in the middle of your back or threatening to go up your ass. If your right handed, do it with the left hand. Practice overhead welding.....and make sure you burn yourself with the slag. If you can weld like that......you can weld anything.
        "Racing is life.....everything else is just waiting" - Steve McQueen

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        • #34
          Originally posted by turbostang View Post
          My recommendation is purely because of me - I like simplicity. Also, if you do any work that may make you in an odd position, you can block the sensor and the lense will not darken. I do a LOT of that kind of work.

          Also, flux core will make your life difficult. I HIGHLY recommend getting gas to learn with.
          actually at work i just got done talking to our "air gas" guy and he quoted me $133 for a 40lb argon tank full, and $18 to refill so im going to try the flux and shop for a cheaper tank...

          will 40lb be enough?? i just want to learn...

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          • #35
            Bought a miller tig welder 2 years ago and still learning. I got the mild steel welding down. I need to work on aluminum welding.

            I'd take Brooks on his offer

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            • #36
              Originally posted by bcoop View Post
              And if you get a batt powered one, change batteries frequently! I've had more flash burn in my eyes than I care to remember. That shit will fuck you up.
              I haven't been burned yet by it, had it a couple years, batts haven't been changed yet. I do try and put in the light while getting shit rounded up to weld.
              Guess its personal preference, i like mine. When it craps out, i'm getting a better quality one.

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              • #37
                Originally posted by turbostang View Post
                Not in my experience - The only time the gun is 'hot' is when you're on the trigger and for a very short time after you let go of it. It appears that the large roll of wire acts as a coil and temporarily stores some energy..at least till you ground it out (makes it appear hot), or till you weld again (then it's hot after again).
                Guess i stand corrected, some are hot torch, come cold. My lincoln sparks every time. Here is a c/p

                All stick welders, and beginner 115-volt wire feed welders have what is called a “Hot Torch”. This means that when the welder is turned on, the consumable (stick or wire) is ready to strike an arc. When you pull the trigger on the torch, it only activates the wire feed motor.
                Since the torch NOZZLE is never “Hot” (electrically), a welder with a hot torch can place an exact weld by clipping the wire close to the nozzle, and resting the nozzle on the work piece without touching the wire to the work piece before pulling the trigger to start welding.
                As an added feature, some wire feed welders have what is called a “Trigger Activated Arc” (“Cold Torch”). When you pull the trigger, it activates the drive deck and the power to the contact tip. This feature allows a more exact placement of the beginning of the weld.
                Campbell Hausfeld welders that feature a Cold Torch include the WG4000, WG3060 and WG3020.
                It is neither easy nor economical to convert a Hot Torch to a Cold Torch. The Cold Torch is only available as a factory option.

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by JimD View Post
                  I haven't been burned yet by it, had it a couple years, batts haven't been changed yet. I do try and put in the light while getting shit rounded up to weld.
                  Guess its personal preference, i like mine. When it craps out, i'm getting a better quality one.
                  Don't get me wrong, I liked it a lot. But the battery was always going dead, and there was no warning. Once you see that flash its too late, and your eyes are fucked. Do yourself a favor and change the batt now while it's fresh on your mind.

                  I will add though, the helmet I was using was when that style was new, and was 10 years ago or so. I'm sure they've made improvements in batt life since then, and maybe they are less damaging now. I had to get rides home on several occasions due to flash burn, from that damn helmet
                  Originally posted by BradM
                  But, just like condoms and women's rights, I don't believe in them.
                  Originally posted by Leah
                  In other news: Brent's meat melts in your mouth.

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Originally posted by bcoop View Post
                    Don't get me wrong, I liked it a lot. But the battery was always going dead, and there was no warning. Once you see that flash its too late, and your eyes are fucked. Do yourself a favor and change the batt now while it's fresh on your mind.

                    I will add though, the helmet I was using was when that style was new, and was 10 years ago or so. I'm sure they've made improvements in batt life since then, and maybe they are less damaging now. I had to get rides home on several occasions due to flash burn, from that damn helmet

                    I have one that I have been using for about 2 years. It's a Miller. Same battery. Now....I don't weld everyday, but I have been pretty impressed with it. You have to really mess with the delay, shading, etc to get it just right though. So the battery life is better I assume then when you tried one. My helmet also has a low battery indicator to let you know it is about to die.
                    "Racing is life.....everything else is just waiting" - Steve McQueen

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Originally posted by JimD View Post
                      Guess i stand corrected, some are hot torch, come cold. My lincoln sparks every time. Here is a c/p

                      All stick welders, and beginner 115-volt wire feed welders have what is called a “Hot Torch”. This means that when the welder is turned on, the consumable (stick or wire) is ready to strike an arc. When you pull the trigger on the torch, it only activates the wire feed motor.
                      Since the torch NOZZLE is never “Hot” (electrically), a welder with a hot torch can place an exact weld by clipping the wire close to the nozzle, and resting the nozzle on the work piece without touching the wire to the work piece before pulling the trigger to start welding.
                      As an added feature, some wire feed welders have what is called a “Trigger Activated Arc” (“Cold Torch”). When you pull the trigger, it activates the drive deck and the power to the contact tip. This feature allows a more exact placement of the beginning of the weld.
                      Campbell Hausfeld welders that feature a Cold Torch include the WG4000, WG3060 and WG3020.
                      It is neither easy nor economical to convert a Hot Torch to a Cold Torch. The Cold Torch is only available as a factory option.
                      did not know this and this will help alot

                      i spent a while messing around earlier trying to weld and the outcome was not as i would have liked, when using a mig with gas my welds were somewhat tolerable, with the .030 flux they look like junk granted i think i had the voltage set too high because it kept popping instead of sizzling ill give it another shot tomorrow!

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                      • #41
                        Also, flux core will make your life difficult. I HIGHLY recommend getting gas to learn with.
                        I'm not a welder but have welded on all kinds of stuff including aluminum. Brooks is correct here, as usual. Even if you think you're doing well with flux core, you will be floored going to gas.
                        sigpic18 F150 Supercrew - daily
                        17 F150 Supercrew - totaled Dec 12, 2018
                        13 DIB Premium GT, M6, Track Pack, Glass Roof, Nav, Recaros - Sold
                        86 SVO - Sold
                        '03 F150 Supercrew - Sold
                        01 TJ - new toy - Sold
                        65 F100 (460 + C6) - Sold

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                        • #42
                          I love my $34 harbor freight auto hood but I had to buy a new one when I started playing with pulsed tig. The harbor freight could not keep up with the low frequency pulses under 20pps.

                          Once you get flashed once you change your mind on hoods. I still prefer the harbor freight for mig/stick

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                          • #43
                            Originally posted by bcoop View Post
                            Don't get me wrong, I liked it a lot. But the battery was always going dead, and there was no warning. Once you see that flash its too late, and your eyes are fucked. Do yourself a favor and change the batt now while it's fresh on your mind.

                            I will add though, the helmet I was using was when that style was new, and was 10 years ago or so. I'm sure they've made improvements in batt life since then, and maybe they are less damaging now. I had to get rides home on several occasions due to flash burn, from that damn helmet
                            Shit, looks like can't change the batteries in this POS. c/p

                            This Welding Helmet utilizes high performance solar cells as power supply, and has two built-in 3V lithium batteries as power backup. No change of battery is needed. Under normal welding conditions, users can expect a battery lifetime of more than 6 years.

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                            • #44
                              I stayed at a Holiday Inn last night...

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                              • #45
                                i'm so old and can't see for shit, so i have to throw my auto darkening helmets away about every 6 months due to splatter.
                                pinto gt with wood trim

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