Harbor Freght tubing notcher. Shim size?

[Darren M]

So I got an HF tubing notcher and as expected it is off center. Anyone have the shim size I should use to center it up?

HF haters exit now. I like SOME of their shit for nominal use and am aware of their reputation.

[turbostang]

I have one of thier tubing notchers that I've used for YEARS with NO problems. It's exactly like the one you see in summit, jegs etc.. for double the money.

Mine is shimmed with a SAE 5/16" flat washer (it fits over the 3/8" bolt). This puts it within .010" or so.

[futant]

shit if this thing works for yall I might have to get one. i can't imagine i have much of an alternative to NOTHING

[turbostang]

The key to making it work is keeping the work as close to the hole saw as possible and using quality hole saws.

[Darren M]

Thanks Turbostang. I assume I can pick those up at any wardware store. Now to try and get the flipp'n thing working with my drill press...... Craftsman drill presses and these tubing notchers are NOT friends.

[Turbo4notch]

If your lucky the shank is not off center like mine was, I use two 3/8" flat washers on mine.

[futant]

ooooooh I have a big bad drill press, that's a good idea I'll just buy a quality hole saw and set er up.
I don't really need a dedicated tube notcher
even better of an idea

[Big A]

Mine is shimmed with a SAE 5/16" flat washer (it fits over the 3/8" bolt). This puts it within .010" or so.

If your lucky the shank is not off center like mine was, I use two 3/8" flat washers on mine.

This tells me that maybe there isn't a "standard" correction, perhaps you should take a few measurements, trial cut a few, and find out what works best.

[turbostang]

This tells me that maybe there isn't a "standard" correction, perhaps you should take a few measurements, trial cut a few, and find out what works best.

actually, depending on your picky-ness, I bet they're all pretty close to the same discrepency.

The diameter of the washer is not the problem, but rather the thickness. I just used the SAE 5/16" because it fit the bolt snug unlike the regular 3/8" washers do. (it was also a bit too thin, but rarely does a fabricator need better than 1/32" tolerance) I've used a couple of these tube notchers and they both appeared to be off near the same amount.. or close to it at least.

[Darren M]

I found some washers in my "washer" drawer that measured out to be 5/16. They work well enough for what I'm doing with it right now. (Adding some tubing to a go kart.) I can't weld well enough for 1/32" to make a difference.

[Darren M]

So now I'm out in the garage trying to fab up some braces for my kid's, new to us, go kart. The tubing I'm connecting is at VERY odd angles to each other. Any tips on measuring properly so I don't have to cut MANY times, or worse, waste tubing?

[aggie97]

i bought a notcher a few years back from Northern and it has worked very well. You just have to remember to oil the shaft often. for hole saws, I have been buyin Irwin Brand 1-3/4" from Northern. I built two full cages on one hole saw. You just have to be patient.

As for tips and techniques....practice. If you have skills it will sort of "come to you"....just like bending tubes!

[Acrotom]

Hope this post is not too late to be helpful-

I have a cheapo Harbor Freight tubing notcher. I fixed the HF unit by installing a 1/16" steel plate between the frame and the part that holds the tube. Just drill holes in the 1/16" plate for the bolts to pass through.

If you are handy enough to use a tubing notcher, then fabricating the plate will be easy.

Washers would probably work fine, too - I probably overkilled mine, but the plate is solid against the frame with no gaps.

I have one of the higher priced tubing notchers, too, and it is a much better tool - seems to be made from better quality materials and the alignment is much better - but the HF unit will work fine if you can compensate for it's poor construction.

Good luck,

Tom

[Darren M]

Tom, please post pics of both. For the little I use the notcher I'm VERY happy to compensate. However, I'm always happy to see and learn from others!

[Acrotom]

Darren,

The 1/16" shim is placed between the clamp assembly and the frame.



The shim looks like this:



and the shim is installed here:



The clamp assembly is then installed over the top of the shim like this - (the shim is the thin white line under the clamp):



The better quality tubing notcher is the "'Ol Joint Jigger", and they cost more, but it's a better unit (picture below). It has three bolts that secure the clamp assebly to the frame, so it is more solid. It's also made of better steel.



The best shops have some very nice tube notchers that put the hole saw type units to shame. The professional units will do almost anything, and do it quickly and repeatable. I want some of that stuff - someday, when I grow up....

If you need to cut notches at an angle that is steeper than the tool allows - None of my tubing notchers would work at some more extreme angles - You can make another clamp assembly that re-positions the tube at a steeper angle. I made one, and the modified clamp is pictured next to the original clamp below.



The clamp fixture was rolled back (see arrow in photo) to allow the tube to be notched at a steeper angle than the original tool would accomodate.

The HF notcher works OK with the shim in place, it's fairly accurate. Hope this helps.

Tom