Seems as though my engine is done....

[KBScobravert]

That wait time is crazy with this economy.

In 2008 with the economy in the toilet, my wait time was a solid 8 months for my Dart motor.

Woody has people lined up around the block to have them put a motor together. The fact that he only puts out 40+/- a month with 3 people shows they are not just slapping shit together and sending it out the door.

[projectPONY]

So with a big bore block there would definitely be room to grow later on, correct. Not to mention the added strength.

[projectPONY]

Yes 4.125" = Big Bore. It allows you to run 347ci with 331 rod angles and crank stroke or allows you to jump from 347ci in a 4.00 bore to 363ci with the extra .125" in bore diameter

You lost me right here! can you elaborate for me, I'm not that smart.

[KBScobravert]

So with a big bore block there would definitely be room to grow later on, correct. Not to mention the added strength.

I want to say I was told a Dart block can be bored to either 4.140 or 4.160.

Either way I would start at 4.125" and go with 347ci. or go all out and go for the 363. The 185s will work better on the 347ci motor though n/a. I have a set of 185s set up by Ed Curtis to work with a FTI cam by him on my dart 347 with a 76mm turbo. If you went 363 you might wanna go with a larger cyl head.

Here is a 363 going in a 95 Cobra witha set of Victor Jrs

http://forums.corral.net/forums/5-0-5-8-engine-tech/1283537-fordstrokers-363-pics.html

[KBScobravert]

You lost me right here! can you elaborate for me, I'm not that smart.

By increasing the bore diameter from 4.000" to 4.125" you are increasing the cubic inch of the motor. When using a

5.4" rod with a 3.25" stroke crank and a 4.030" bore = 331ci
5.4" rod with a 3.25" stroke crank and a 4.125" bore = 347ci

The 5.4/3.25 is said to have optimal rod angle to reduce side load of the piston on the wall of the cylinder. This is key to keeping the rings from lasting in a street motor. So they say. I have never put enough miles on a 331 or a 347 to notice a difference.

5.4" rod with a 3.40" stroke crank and a 4.030" bore = 347ci
5.4" rod with a 3.40" stroke crank and a 4.125" bore = 363ci

[projectPONY]

By increasing the bore diameter from 4.000" to 4.125" you are increasing the cubic inch of the motor. When using a

5.4" rod with a 3.25" stroke crank and a 4.030" bore = 331ci
5.4" rod with a 3.25" stroke crank and a 4.125" bore = 347ci

The 5.4/3.25 is said to have optimal rod angle to reduce side load of the piston on the wall of the cylinder. This is key to keeping the rings from lasting in a street motor. So they say. I have never put enough miles on a 331 or a 347 to notice a difference.

5.4" rod with a 3.40" stroke crank and a 4.030" bore = 347ci
5.4" rod with a 3.40" stroke crank and a 4.125" bore = 363ci

ahhh, I got you now. thanks for breaking it down and thanks for the link.

I was just over on the FordStroker site and the Dart block does seem to be worth the extra $$. I'll have to kick this idea around a bit.

[KBScobravert]

ahhh, I got you now. thanks for breaking it down and thanks for the link.

I was just over on the FordStroker site and the Dart block does seem to be worth the extra $$. I'll have to kick this idea around a bit.

Your welcome.

Not to scare you but my Dart based motor cost me over $12k but that included EVERYTHING (Block, rotating assembly with zero balance, AFR185, Ed Curtis cam-valve springs, Comp Cams timing chain, rockers, titanium retainers, retrofit rollers and custom length push rods, oil pump, pan, pickup, valve covers, intake, timing chain cover, romac balancer, cometic gaskets, and all ARP).

I started with a 100% stock motor and wanted a complete drop in. If you already have the heads, rockers, cam, etc you are going to do it for a lot cheaper.

[projectPONY]

Your welcome.

Not to scare you but my Dart based motor cost me over $12k but that included EVERYTHING (Block, rotating assembly with zero balance, AFR185, Ed Curtis cam-valve springs, Comp Cams timing chain, rockers, titanium retainers, retrofit rollers and custom length push rods, oil pump, pan, pickup, valve covers, intake, timing chain cover, romac balancer, cometic gaskets, and all ARP).

I started with a 100% stock motor and wanted a complete drop in. If you already have the heads, rockers, cam, etc you are going to do it for a lot cheaper.

yeah, I have a lot of the large stuff already. I'm just scared of the little shit. after all, that is where most of the money goes IMO.

[KBScobravert]

http://forums.corral.net/forums/5-0-5-8-engine-tech/1209408-363-pics-thanks-woody-5.html

This guy made over 420rwhp with one of Woody's Dart 363, using a jay allen cam and set of TFS 205cc heads. He won't post numbers up after the tune though. He implies they made a lot more though then the initial 420rwhp.

[projectPONY]

http://forums.corral.net/forums/5-0-...s-woody-5.html

This guy made over 420rwhp with one of Woody's Dart 363, using a jay allen cam and set of TFS 205cc heads. He won't post numbers up after the tune though. He implies they made a lot more though then the initial 420rwhp.

isn't Jay Allen from Cam Innovations? heard they went out of business.

[projectPONY]

anyone else have any input? would really like to hear from those actually running a 331 or 347.

[smokey3550]

I've built about a dozen 347's and three 331's. I recommend the 331, it has a better rod to stroke ratio (less bore wear due to less severe rod angle) and the 331 rings do not go thru the piston pin hole. 347's are better for race or weekend cars. You will hear a lot af people praise thier 347's, but most really dont put that many miles on them.

[KBScobravert]

I've built about a dozen 347's and three 331's. I recommend the 331, it has a better rod to stroke ratio (less bore wear due to less severe rod angle) and the 331 rings do not go thru the piston pin hole. 347's are better for race or weekend cars. You will hear a lot af people praise thier 347's, but most really dont put that many miles on them.

taking your 331 "kit" and using a 4.125 instead of 4.00 or 4.030 piston will give you a 347. Same rod to stroke ratio same less bore wear same piston pin hole etc.

I have a 4.125" 347ci Dart motor. Ran like a top until I pulled it down to go turbo.

[turbostang]

I agree with Cooter as well, I would under no circumstances buy a "mail order" engine from anyone. Even the best shops make mistakes, and if they're mail order - too bad, so sad. Pay to ship it to and from and wait weeks for it to get back. No thanks.

Also, as Keith said - I have about 15K in my Dart IE 331. If budget is a concern, I'd look for a stock block 351W. The only part of yours that won't work is the intake and A/C or P/S bracket. Sell your intake to pay for most of what you need for the new one. Looks like you already have a cowl hood, so hood clearance shoudln't be a problem combined with drop mounts.

A good portion of your money will be spent on machine work if you choose to do QUALITY work and not take it to an "engine rebuilder" type shop. Balancing is a must.

I'd give Morgan and Sons a call, talk to Bud and see what he says. Very reasonable, and VERY good work.

[Lone Sailor]

Woody at Ford Strokers has a great reputation. You're going to wait a little longer for it though since he does such great work there is a line of people wanting him to build them a short block.