Approximate RWHP of streetable 351...

[85turbocoupe]

300-500$ in machining cost. If the block needs to be bored.. I'd just try to find another good running stocker. Spending 1k on a stock block seems ridiculous to me. 400-500$ in machining labor with bore, vat, balancing, etc. Plus the cost of new pistons/rings, oil pump, gaskets, etc. + the cost of having someone assemble it if you can't yourself.

[Z06killinsbf]

I'm trying to sell my 289, basically same as a 302 but will spin harder.

[hotrod66stang]

I'm trying to sell my 289, basically same as a 302 but will spin harder.

Details?

[Jimbo]

Can you give me range (high to low side) of what I could expect? Obviously, the low side without a rebore and a rebore/new pistons? on the high side?

I wouldn't rebuild a stock block at your level. Why not built a forged stock block windsor to plug in there with the turbo?

[White90GT]

Here's a list of head choices that can get you to the 400-550 rwhp range depending on the combo.
Trickflow High Ports, Twisted Wedge 205s, TFS R
AFR 205-225
Canfield
Vic Jr
Brodix Track 1s

EFI intakes I would consider for a stroked windsor
#1 a spider style, supervic with fuel rails and an elbow
TFS-R or TFS Breadbox (had a buddy make 487rwhp years ago with the breadbox and ported TEA Twisted Wedges with an FTI cam)
Victor 5.8 EFI ported

Carb intakes with a 750-950 cfm carb...
Supervic or fully ported Vic Jr. Thats it, no others to consider for a street stroker

Cam would have to be a custom hydraulic roller from FTI and use link bar lifters

Exhaust 1 3/4 to 3" minimum, that stepped to 1 7/8 or 2" would be best with 3"-3.5" collectors and full exhaust

Transmission and the rest is up to you. But pick any combination of the above parts and I'll bet Ed Curtis can grind you a cam that will reach your goals easily with a 10:1 or 11:1 motor and be plenty streetable on pump gas.

[Steve]

In my opinion, while dishing out the money for an expensive aftermarket block may not be the most desirable thing, it's better than rebuilding/buying multiple stock blocks that can split at very low horsepower levels and end up costing more money and time in the long run.

Do it once and do it right. You won't regret it, especially when you can run much more boost and go much faster. You'll soon forget that sting of paying for that block when you're feeling the rush of some serious horsepower.

[KBScobravert]

In my opinion, while dishing out the money for an expensive aftermarket block may not be the most desirable thing, it's better than rebuilding/buying multiple stock blocks that can split at very low horsepower levels and end up costing more money and time in the long run.

Do it once and do it right. You won't regret it, especially when you can run much more boost and go much faster. You'll soon forget that sting of paying for that block when you're feeling the rush of some serious horsepower. without having to R&R split blocks or headgaskets every other weekend.

Fixed and agree

I went Dart build right out of the gate with mine.

[Z06killinsbf]

Details?

It's an older PAW motor, .040 forged TRW's, Isky 262 Super cam, ported, polished E7's with 1.6's rollers (need new springs), Milodon road race pan, high volume pump, RPM Air Gap, Mallory Unilite dist, Heddman ceramic long tubes. Not sure on what I want on $$ wise.