tools needed for rear end work..

[fbodyjohnny]

lots of good info fellas! thanks

[fbodyjohnny]

ring gear runout?

[Bassics]

hm. i might just look into buyin a junker, then i could take care of business while chillen in the hot tub drinkin beer lol. but seriously, thank you for the info, so the tools,
press, or access to one, dial indicator, magnetic base, and a hell of a long 1/2 inch drive breaker bar to crush the sleeve. everything else is just good old fashion sweat and bloody knuckles right? also, i bought a new trak-lock diff, any specific gadgets needed for that?

I got a super throw down impact wrench to get it started, it was tedious. It was easiest to finish up with a 4' peice of pipe on a 1/2" breaker for that.

And oh yeah, you will want a 12 point socket for the pinion flange.

A couple of big huge truck jackstands really helps where a lift won't make it, but you can do it with just two normal stands in the back if the front is stock height.

[Bassics]

ring gear runout?

Warping of the ring gear from tightening it in one pass with an impact.

Throws the backlash way the hell off in any place except the one that is measured.

Deburr both as best you can, and be clean about putting the gear on the carrier. Think of it like putting a head onto a block without a gasket. One little piece of debris and it is hosed. Torquing all the way as you put each bolt in and it is hosed. Use an impact set at high and go around it like a nascar tire changer and it is hosed. Common sense man, you will see.

To doble check, you measure runout in almost the same fashion as backlash. You measure the difference in "wobble" at different pionts on the gear as you spin the carrier. Any is no good. It will mean that your backlash varies as you drive.

[fbodyjohnny]

yea, jackin it up shouldnt be an issue in our shop. im glad he is gona be there to walk me through it, i just dont wana fuck it up. with all the info yall are givin though, fuckin it up seems near impossible

[fbodyjohnny]

Warping of the ring gear from tightening it in one pass with an impact.

Throws the backlash way the hell off in any place except the one that is measured.

Deburr both as best you can, and be clean about putting the gear on the carrier. Think of it like putting a head onto a block without a gasket. One little piece of debris and it is hosed. Torquing all the way as you put each bolt in and it is hosed. Use an impact set at high and go around it like a nascar tire changer and it is hosed. Common sense man, you will see.

To doble check, you measure runout in almost the same fashion as backlash. You measure the difference in "wobble" at different pionts on the gear as you spin the carrier. Any is no good. It will mean that your backlash varies as you drive.

awesome, noted.

[Bassics]

It is miles ahead to have someone walk you through it than to try and figure it out.

My first one was a pretty damn good (lucky) job. I felt I had it down after that. I was so wrong.

[fbodyjohnny]

lol well, to sum this all up, what will happen during the work that will let me know i fucked up? like, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, so on so forth

[Bassics]

If you cannot get the carrier in place even without any shims on the passenger side bearing, then your pinion depth is way off (it is sticking too far out) for some reason.

And don't mix up the ring and pinion.

Check the runout. It should not vary. If it does then it may be the ring flange on the carrier is worn somehow. I saw this twice with 31 spline track locks with 4.30s that had the pin shaved to fit. It is hard to find a machinist who will even attempt to fix it, but they can, I have seen it.
Compare backlash at several points, just because it is good in one place doesn't mean it is good all over.

Drive it a little bit and then crack it back open. Look for bearing shims that are trying to slide out. That is a sign you didn't get the carrier in tight.

Noise and vibration shouldn't really be present, although it depends on the car, high ratio gears can make a lot of heat and start a whine that takes time to notice.

If you dump the clutch at 7k on the line and the front end lifts, you crfeam your pants in joy, and then this gawdawful bang goes off and the car just sits there, you have a shattered carrier. You generally must start over.

If you hear noise from the side, especially going around corners, look at the ABS exciter ring and the sensor, it may be rubbing.

[fbodyjohnny]

excellent! idk if my 306 & paxton 1000 will get it up even with slicks though. havent dyno'd it yet, but its also got trickflow heads, PP intake manifold and hookers, boost around 6. definitely faster than my previous car, 356whp 363wtqe cobalt ss.

[Bassics]

excellent! idk if my 306 & paxton 1000 will get it up even with slicks though. havent dyno'd it yet, but its also got trickflow heads, PP intake manifold and hookers, boost around 6. definitely faster than my previous car, 356whp 363wtqe cobalt ss.

I used a stock 98 cobra, offroad H and 4.56s, and a few suspension things. If you can't get it up with what you have behind the flywheel, then throw a viagra pill in the tank.

[Laura07]

Are you married? If so, I wouldn't track diff fluid (even on your clothes) into the house, or you might be looking at a divorce.

[Bassics]

Are you married? If so, I wouldn't track diff fluid (even on your clothes) into the house, or you might be looking at a divorce.

This is a test of a good woman. You have obviously failed and prefer the smell of axe and metrosexual ballsweat.

[Captain Crawfish]

Ive done the DIY approach and by the time you buy all the stuff to do it right you could have paid someone.

[Bassics]

Hey man, check your PMs, I may be able to help you out actually.