Cobra Brake Install on Foxbody

[TENGRAM]

http://www.corner-carvers.com/forums...ad.php?t=31335

Cliff notes: you may need to space the caliper bracket to fit your needs and you need the cobra moan brackets with cobra brakes.

Well, I'm not thrilled with how my brackets fit. The driver side is close enough to perfect but the passenger side rotor is barely a hair away from touching the caliper cage. I'ma give it a shot like it is but I'm guessing that it will rub as soon as the rotor heats up.

[oatburner99]

Just a question for you. I picked up a set of 96 spindles with brakes and was going to put them on my 90 notch. EVERYONE and their mother says you can't run those spindles with the stock K-member, which in all actuality you defunct. Most scream bumpsteer problems(which probabley most people don't even know what bumpsteer is), and track width. Bumpsteer due to the steering arm being straight out instead of an upwards curve like the fox/94-95 spindles.

I picked up a set of adjustable steering rack bushings, which will give you maybe a 1/2 an inch of adjustability up and down on the steering rack. I don't know if that would help you any. I just thought I would suggest it being you have your car is pretty much done already and could measure the angles. The bushings were 12$ @ LRS. I ended up chickening out and put 94-95 spindles on, and now the 96's are sitting in my garage collecting dust. Anyway I wonder how your angles would be with the adjustable steering rack bushings. I don't think it would get rid of all that angle caused by the spindles, but it would help a little bit. Just a thought.

[Doug Hatton]

I'm more annoyed with the increased trackwidth than I am the bumpsteer. I'll end up changing my spindles/hubs out eventually for the 95's. I probably wouldn't care except I've come to the conclusion that my prostar front runners probably won't work once I include the spacer that's required for the cobra brakes. It'll just push everything even further out.

[big_tiger]

I got the booster, mc, proportioning valve and mm kits installed today after work. I ran out of time, so I'll have to bleed everything later, but the hard part's done... here's an after pic...

What kind of brake booster are you running? Hope you painted it...

[SMEGMA STENCH]

Spindles/Hubs +Brake parts + turning rotors + pads + adapter fitting= about $375
Strange shocks/struts= under $400

Ok now this is something that has always interested me. Do you feel like the car actually stops any better? And does it stop better enough, to justify the price you paid for all that stuff?

[joes01bullitt]

looks nice doug!

[Doug Hatton]

Sorry guys, been busy at work today:

The booster is painted a silver color when I bought it. I assumed that would be fine to install as is. It's a SN95 V6/GT booster.

I think it brakes much better. I've still got to do a little adjusting on the proportioning valve and I'll probably bleed it one more time this weekend as I was using the "pump it into a cup of brake fluid" technique the first time and am not 100% positive I got all the air out.

In terms of cost, it was definitely more expensive than I planned on. If I knew then what I know now, I'm not sure if I would have done it. But it's done now and is a good foundation for future mods to come. The struts/shocks weren't a requirement at the time, but I've been wanting to add them anyway.

[TENGRAM]

Ok now this is something that has always interested me. Do you feel like the car actually stops any better? And does it stop better enough, to justify the price you paid for all that stuff?

With moderately sticky tires I couldn't even lock the stock brakes up and the brake fade was ridiculous. These Cobra brakes will cure that, plus they open up a lot more options for wheels. Worth every penny, easily.

[YALE]

I'm going to be swapping my front brakes to cobra brakes. Which mc/booster combo will give me the most pressure? What hardware do I need to adapt it? I'm leaving the stock drums in the back for now (still switching to 5-lug with Ranger drums), but I plan to step up to rear discs eventually. How do I lay the most groundwork now? The car is a 1986 GT, with stock brakes. Also, if you want 94/95 spindles, Doug, they're $45 each in a yard up here. Let me know if I need to pick a couple up for you.

Help me finish this list. Here's what I have so far:
94/95 GT spindles & hubs
Cobra/Mach/Bullitt brackets and calipers
Cobra/Mach/Bullitt rotors & pads
MM braided stainless lines
?????
Profit!

[TENGRAM]

93 Cobra MC and booster - the 94/95 GT booster will also work but is supposedly more sensitive.

MM master cylinder adapter - adapts the stock proportioning valve to the new MC.

SN95 brake light switch - I needed this to regain under dash clearance. The stock switch would occasionally catch on a structural brace under there and cause the brakes to drag.

Dust shields - if you want to use them.

2 bottles of brake fluid (pints)

brake bleeder kit

brake fitting wrenches

cotter pins

a BFH - in order to clearance the strut tower to allow the booster to go in.



What I have heard is, if you keep the stock drum brakes you must use the stock proportioning valve. Aftermarket prop valve will cause the drums to lock up.

[TENGRAM]

You'll need a stack of washers (sorry, I forgot what size and how many) or a spacer to to fill the gap between the ball joint crown nut and the spindle. Else the crown nut will screw way down on the ball joint stud and the cotter pin hole won't be anywhere near the crown nut.

I think that's it but if I remember anything else I'll let you know.
Also, I don't know what differences there are between your 86 and my 89 except the MC. I assume everything else will be the same as far as the swap goes.

[YALE]

You'll need a stack of washers (sorry, I forgot what size and how many) or a spacer to to fill the gap between the ball joint crown nut and the spindle. Else the crown nut will screw way down on the ball joint stud and the cotter pin hole won't be anywhere near the crown nut.

I think that's it but if I remember anything else I'll let you know.
Also, I don't know what differences there are between your 86 and my 89 except the MC. I assume everything else will be the same as far as the swap goes.

They have different spindles than 87-93, but that may have already been changed, because It already has MM's lower a-arms, and their website says that won't work with 79-86 spindles.

[homealone]

They have different spindles than 87-93, but that may have already been changed, because It already has MM's lower a-arms, and their website says that won't work with 79-86 spindles.

Up to 86 4cyl and V8 shared the same 10" brakes. 87 V8 went to an 11". Measure your rotor diameter. If they are still 10" you will need struts too.

[YALE]

Up to 86 4cyl and V8 shared the same 10" brakes. 87 V8 went to an 11". Measure your rotor diameter. If they are still 10" you will need struts too.

Does it make a difference if it's already got MM's coilover kit on it?

EDIT: For the 94/95 spindles?

[homealone]

Does it make a difference if it's already got MM's coilover kit on it?

EDIT: For the 94/95 spindles?

Is this case, the difference is the mounting flange from the spindle to strut. Now, do you have the coilover kit or lower control arms? You've stated both.

If you have one or the other or both, according to their website they all work 79-93.

Do you know specifically which parts you have? Part number wise.