P1sc Head Unit Removal

[JarHeadTex]

Ok, can someone give me some quik tips on removing the head unit. Ive taken it in to have seals replaced. Now the belt is squealing. I want to pull the unit myself to save alot of money, because apparently I will be removing it on a regular basis.

2003 Mach

[shumpertdavid]

If you have a belt squeal, you need to look at all your pulley alignment first. You may have a crank pulley that's walking out on the hub, tensioner that's kicking out, or something like that. You may need to pull the head unit but need to address any alignment issues as well. If it's like my F1, I remove the belt from the water pump pulley first, take the bolt loose from the right side of the blower (while facing engine) that attaches by the alternator, and remove 2 nuts that hold the bracket to the Passenger cylinder head. It's pretty simple, or and of course remove your inlet and discharge piping.

[JarHeadTex]

Thanks for the info. It never squealed until i got it back form having the seal replaced this last time, so I am thinking it is either out of alignment or too tight. Can you adjust the belt tension?

[Captain Crawfish]

Thanks for the info. It never squealed until i got it back form having the seal replaced this last time, so I am thinking it is either out of alignment or too tight. Can you adjust the belt tension?

not really if you have a factory tensioner. you may have some oil on the pulleys from the leak which is causing it to slip. i run a gatorback belt on my setup and it doesnt slip but the belt is a real bitch to get on and off. removing the s/c should be pretty easy once you get the belt off and disconnect the inlet outlet on the s/c. if the belt is too lose try running a smaller belt

[BOOSTED95]

I have the same problem with my belt. Everything fine till i put a new belt on. It squills like a pig for bout 10 min till it gets warm. My pullys lil worn so not sure if its cuz that or dont get driven much and the cold weather too tight or maybe all. Ne one know if u can get those little black pullys that come from procharger at o rileys or ne where else? They the ones that rought the belt around the bracket

[JarHeadTex]

I have the same problem with my belt. Everything fine till i put a new belt on. It squills like a pig for bout 10 min till it gets warm. My pullys lil worn so not sure if its cuz that or dont get driven much and the cold weather too tight or maybe all. Ne one know if u can get those little black pullys that come from procharger at o rileys or ne where else? They the ones that rought the belt around the bracket

wow...

[shumpertdavid]

My little pulley (between alternator and blower) was worn pretty bad and the bearings were not happy sounding, I just ordered from Procharger. I don't remember the price being too bad. I run Dayco Polycog belts, similiar to the Gatorback, I also run a larger Idler pulley just to the passenger side of the head unit as it gives more belt wrap on the charger pulley. It's 2.5" o.d. versus the 2.0" o.d. that ford runs. It's the same pulley that 92 1/2 ton chevy 350 Idler Pulley would be. I still run a 6 rib setup, F1-a that makes 22 psi @ 7000 rpm with no belt slip.

Alignment issues have been my biggest problem both with my Novi 2 valve and procharged 4 valve. I had to shim the blower pulley on my novi, and I shim the charger bracket with washers on the 4 valve.

Usually if it's off much it will eat away at one side of the belt because something is getting pushed against the ribs of the pulley instead of sitting down inside them. Also look at each ribbed pulley with the belt of. There may be pieces of belt rubber lodged/burned into the ribs. You can use a pick to clean all this out. I run into it on customers cars a lot. And as mentioned above, clean any old oil residue off. A rag and some brake cleaner will do the trick.