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  • #1

    Hot wire to coil

    66 mustang, 302. dual point distributer, old school motor.
    Accel supercoil power, do I need to run a keyed hot wire to it or can I use the "factory" wire and be OK? I am thinking I need to run a hot wire to it as the factory wire has a resister built into it and I think it runs at 8 volts after start up. How about the resistor that came with the coil.

    I can't remember how I did it 30 years ago Can't remember shit anymore,
    Tags: None
  • #2
    If I remember right, the stock Ford coil had the resister built in. If you run straight 12 volts it will fry the points. I saw a Ford 351 Windsor in an inboard boat, and it was wired with a GM type ceramic resister in the hot wire going to the coil. Yep, it has been too long to remember all that stuff.

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    • #3
      You need to run a keyed source to turn it off. The original Ford coils specified
      external resistor required on the side or it was internal.

      Unless you must run all stock, I would recommend some kind of electronic
      ignition conversion. It will take the wear off the point faces!

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      • #4
        Look on Accels website and see what they recommend. I just put a vac advance Pertronic flame thrower dist. and coil in a 289 in a '66. Made a huge difference in cold start and warm up. Ran better all around just more noticeable then.

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        • #5
          The factory wire is fine as long as it still has the resistor in it. I like to run a wire from the starter that gives the coil 12v when the engine is cranking. Many factory cars are set up this way. Do yourself a favor and install an electronic ignition conversion. I promise you that it will be the best money yout have ever spent on a car.
          Magnus, I am your father. You need to ask your mother about a man named Calvin Klein.

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          • #6
            Yea, electronic ignition is in the works.
            I tried a GM type ignition on the wife's 351 w and could not get it to work in the car. Not sure why. Could get it to work on the work bench spinning the distributor with my fingers but wouldn't work in the car. I was told and looked on the web and some people said that the fords don't crank at a high enough RPM to energize the GM type ignition. Don't know. Put the points in for now.
            Youall are right about the electronic ignition, at some point it will be in both cars.
            Thanks for the help, guy's !!

            Comment

            • #7
              Originally posted by Kart21 View Post
              Yea, electronic ignition is in the works.
              I tried a GM type ignition on the wife's 351 w and could not get it to work in the car. Not sure why. Could get it to work on the work bench spinning the distributor with my fingers but wouldn't work in the car. I was told and looked on the web and some people said that the fords don't crank at a high enough RPM to energize the GM type ignition. Don't know. Put the points in for now.
              Youall are right about the electronic ignition, at some point it will be in both cars.
              Thanks for the help, guy's !!

              This would be a new one to me and I am pretty astute when it comes to the intricacies of various ignition triggers. If that is the actual case it would be pretty easy to deal with. Just measure voltage drop to the starter while cranking the engine and go with bigger battery cables and possibly a better quality battery if you have a large voltage drop. Chances are pretty damn good that you do have a significant voltage drop. A later model PMGR starter would also take care of it while taking about 15lbs of weight off of the front of the car.
              Magnus, I am your father. You need to ask your mother about a man named Calvin Klein.

              Comment

              • #8
                Originally posted by svauto-erotic855 View Post
                This would be a new one to me and I am pretty astute when it comes to the intricacies of various ignition triggers. If that is the actual case it would be pretty easy to deal with. Just measure voltage drop to the starter while cranking the engine and go with bigger battery cables and possibly a better quality battery if you have a large voltage drop. Chances are pretty damn good that you do have a significant voltage drop. A later model PMGR starter would also take care of it while taking about 15lbs of weight off of the front of the car.
                Sir, please tell me more about the PMGR starter. New battery (850 cranking amps). Newer cables. I do agree about the possible issue with the starter. Its an unknown vintage and history. Thanks

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Kart21 View Post
                  Sir, please tell me more about the PMGR starter. New battery (850 cranking amps). Newer cables. I do agree about the possible issue with the starter. Its an unknown vintage and history. Thanks
                  Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction starter.


                  Access Denied
                  http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/engine/mdmp-0811-pmgr-starter-upgrade/
                  Magnus, I am your father. You need to ask your mother about a man named Calvin Klein.

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                  • #10
                    That's cool, thanks again !

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