Looking for a book suggestion or manual

[aggie97]

Well, I am bailing on mod motors and coyotes and going back to old school windsors. I'm in the process of acquiring a former NASCAR 358 Windsor with Yates heads and Roush manifold and I'm looking for books to learn about the engine family. The problem is most of the books cater only to the standard 351 and say nothing about the R451/452 compacted graphite blocks or specifically the dry sump setups and how the oil system to the heads works.

Have any of you come across a book with this info in it and can you provide the isbn number or link?

My next step is to contact Roush/Yates Engines and see if they have an owners manual or guide.

Can't wait for this thing to be delivered. The history on it is pretty cool.

[Baron Von Crowder]

PM Grape.

[BP]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/search?index=books&linkCode=qs&keywords=9781101188002

[aggie97]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/search?ind...=9781101188002

Is this one you have used and liked? The ones I've mostly found concentrate on modified street and drag motors but rarely cover short track or dry sump race engines. I'm looking for something covering that more than the regular Windsor.

[Gasser64]

Well, I am bailing on mod motors and coyotes and going back to old school windsors.

Hope this isn't too off topic, but why are you bailing on them? Too expensive?

[Mach1]

Hope this isn't too off topic, but why are you bailing on them? Too expensive?

Are there mod motors making 800hp N/A?

[svauto-erotic855]

Dry sump systems are pretty simple to understand. Once you have your engine I would be happy to come over and walk you through how the system you have works.

Other than a few minor changes a stock car engine is the same basic architecture as a normal Windsor. The magic is in the heads and intake. The short blocks only job is to not fail.

[Baron Von Crowder]

Dry sump systems are pretty simple to understand. Once you have your engine I would be happy to come over and walk you through how the system you have works.

Other than a few minor changes a stock car engine is the same basic architecture as a normal Windsor. The magic is in the heads and intake. The short blocks only job is to not fail.

I bet you wont!

[svauto-erotic855]

I bet you wont!

Why wouldn't I? I like meeting people from the board and I like to help people work on neat projects.

[Baron Von Crowder]

Why wouldn't I? I like meeting people from the board and I like to help people work on neat projects.

Because he's in College station?

[svauto-erotic855]

I did not check his location but I would gladly swing by if I found myself in his area. Another option is him sending me some pictures and I will draw a diagram of his system and explain what each circuit does.

[aggie97]

Dry sump systems are pretty simple to understand. Once you have your engine I would be happy to come over and walk you through how the system you have works.

Other than a few minor changes a stock car engine is the same basic architecture as a normal Windsor. The magic is in the heads and intake. The short blocks only job is to not fail.

I already understand a typical drysump and we run one on the wife's LS. The problem with the Roush/Yates setups are that they have no oil returns from the heads and the cam valley is blocked off from the crankcase to prevent oil from falling onto the crankshaft. Oil is fed in from somewhere on the front of the motor and into the valve covers and floods the top of the head with oil to make things live at 8500+ rpm and there are separate stages on the suction pump to clear that oil...but how fast are you supposed to clear it and how much oil do they need? I've heard there can be up to 2 qts in each head while running. Then you throw into the mix, that this block had the return holes drilled to become a traditional wet sump setup...and should I block those off again or is it no big deal? The engine is assembled and ready to go, just needs a cam since Comp took their prototype back (cool story there). I may just need to send it to a shop that knows them and can check it and verify it before I go put it on track sometime next year after I finish building the car.

What I am really looking for is a technical manual for a Roush/Yates 358 and there really just isn't that much out there on the net. I am probably going to have to contact them and buy one of their books....and when they ask me for the engine #....things are going to get interesting because this engine was given to Hot Rod magazine a few years back for a power tour project and they have since sold it...and now it's MINE! Hope RYR doesn't get too pissy about that.

As for going away from mods and coyotes, I am selling my car, or parting it out and I have already bought another race car that this engine will drop into. Goal is to keep things under 7800 rpm and make around 750hp on pump gas. It already made 720-730hp on a rather small hydraulic roller at 11.2:1 c/r. Should make for an interesting combo and be WAY overbuilt.

[Broncojohnny]

Are there mod motors making 800hp N/A?

Yes, but you are going to need some deep pockets.

[JV106]

Because he's in College station?

Hell thats more of a reason to go see him. Gig 'em 2007!

[svauto-erotic855]

I already understand a typical drysump and we run one on the wife's LS. The problem with the Roush/Yates setups are that they have no oil returns from the heads and the cam valley is blocked off from the crankcase to prevent oil from falling onto the crankshaft. Oil is fed in from somewhere on the front of the motor and into the valve covers and floods the top of the head with oil to make things live at 8500+ rpm and there are separate stages on the suction pump to clear that oil...but how fast are you supposed to clear it and how much oil do they need? I've heard there can be up to 2 qts in each head while running. Then you throw into the mix, that this block had the return holes drilled to become a traditional wet sump setup...and should I block those off again or is it no big deal? The engine is assembled and ready to go, just needs a cam since Comp took their prototype back (cool story there). I may just need to send it to a shop that knows them and can check it and verify it before I go put it on track sometime next year after I finish building the car.

You are worrying to much. From what you are describing you need a pump with 4 scavenging stages at least .875" wide. Do not worry about pulling the oil out of the heads too quickly; the oil just passing through is the important part since its purpose is to pull heat out of the valve springs. The cam bearings are most likely needle bearings and they barely need any oil at all but you do need a special cam core. The oil drain backs being drilled in the block will not cause an issue and is of no concern. The cam may be in what looks like a pipe when seen from the bottom. The valve covers normally have a fitting to plumb the oil to.

I really have to take my hat off to you. I have always wanted to get a "last years" stock car engine, stick a roller cam in it, and top it with a tunned runner individual TB intake with EFI and run it on the street but have never wanted to write that check.