Wiring question on batter relocation. Breakers for alt,batt

[fitzwell]

Is running a full length ground really necessary?

Even OEMs ground factory rear mounts to the chassis.

Buddy of mine & I discuss this. He swears that the factory does it & it works. I run full length cables & don't have problems. Personal preference I guess, but I like having full length cables. The sensors involved certainly don't mind.

[NoClassic]

Makes sense to cover your ass if its an old unibody I guess. I know that even the older euro stuff seems to do fine with a short strap to the chassis though.

Body on frame I really dont see the point if you have proper grounding from chassis to motor.

[Sleeper]

I have the same Cable as link above, but got ito off ebay as they sold it by the foot. Same breaker as well on the way.

I'm going to get a 250amp distribution block for the hot. Has 4 poles on it. One will goto starter, one to auto Rod panel, one to ms3 fuse block and relays. And last for the feed from battery.

I started mounting everything last night. As far as ecu etc.

[bird_dog0347]

Understood... but that said, the car has had under 4k miles in the 4 years I've had it. I'm not worried about wear and tear.

[svauto-erotic855]

Understood... but that said, the car has had under 4k miles in the 4 years I've had it. I'm not worried about wear and tear.

Then make sure to use the Mad Electrical method of running a hot cable that is only hot while cranking or you may inadvertently burn down your car and the garage that it is sitting in.

http://www.madelectrical.com/

FYI: I was the go to guy for wiring when I worked on cars for a living and I never found better techniques for doing it then what the guys at Mad Electrical recommend. They are hands down the tippy top dogs of the wiring game.

Marine grade cable is suitable for use in a car and it is no more expensive then the welding cable. I personally have all of the crimp on lugs that you could need and the tools to crimp them with. If you are in the Dallas area I would be happy to give you a hand.

[bubbaearl]

our chrysler 300 has a short ground wire from the battery to the body. maybe 6 in long in the trunk . i dont buy the ground to the bell housing thing. never done it never will.

[bubbaearl]

Buddy of mine & I discuss this. He swears that the factory does it & it works. I run full length cables & don't have problems. Personal preference I guess, but I like having full length cables. The sensors involved certainly don't mind.

and you know i'm right.

[Sleeper]

Sooo..

Gunna run a full length ground. Getting some sensor noise. Pulled the battery out and grounded directly to the block, no noise.

[shumpertdavid]

A good ground system is critical to having a proper functioning efi system. Make sure your ecm grounds don't share a ground with anything else. If you're using a body or chassis ground down ground anything else at that same point.

[Sleeper]

I've got all the clean sensor grounds ecu on the head, all the dirty stuff goes to the chassis.

So once I get some new wire in I'll be golden. Full length ground to the block, and a ground from block to the chassis. And strap to firewall.

[NoClassic]

How do you have the engine grounded to the chassis?

[Sleeper]

I actually run 2 1/0 cables about 12 inches each. Each side of motor and the factory strap to the firewall.

I ground down the frame to metal and have it bolted to chassis. I want to weld it.

[KBScobravert]

All my grounds for EFI, starter, alternator run straight from the battery. None of them run to the body. Cylinder heads and linked by a 1/0, then the starter case, then then alternator bracket then to a distribution lug with direct 0ath to the battery.

I run a short 1/0 from the battery to the chassis fir body grounds (lights, radio, dash stuff).

ECU power and ground run on their own battery lugs to make sure they are clean.

Amplifier power and ground run to lugs on battery number 2.