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The stock 55mm mas air only passes about 550 cfm. A 75mm mas air about 800cfm, and that is good for 750+hp.
always cheaper to work with what you have. Any mass air computer can be changed to speed density. with map/bap, in my experience, the tune is far more precise with using a mass air flow calculation, rather than manifold air pressure. Specificaly the timing. With the maf sensor, timing calculated and adjusted with density altitude/load%, instead of berometric pressure.
On boosted set up's, i usually turn off the bap sensor to help lock the timing down better. Or worse the sensor fails and throw in 10 degrees when i don't need it to, so i turn it off, unless you live in the mountains, and even then, the maf still does all the work.
In 94 ford got rid of the bap sensor all together, and started calculating that function based on map at start up.
when you base the tune strictly off map, any leaks, or blow by, a line pops off anything, and your tune is off what ever you leak. Depending on the leak, that could be a little or a lot.
I loose the maf for some reason, bypass blows off, clamp slips, what ever, the computer defaults to what ever i tell it to, and the computer sets a code, and the check engine light tells me something is wrong.
You loose map signal, or it's bleeding off somewhere, you will never know, unless you are logging, have a gauge, or it sets a code.
always cheaper to work with what you have. Any mass air computer can be changed to speed density. with map/bap, in my experience, the tune is far more precise with using a mass air flow calculation, rather than manifold air pressure. Specificaly the timing. With the maf sensor, timing calculated and adjusted with density altitude/load%, instead of berometric pressure.
On boosted set up's, i usually turn off the bap sensor to help lock the timing down better. Or worse the sensor fails and throw in 10 degrees when i don't need it to, so i turn it off, unless you live in the mountains, and even then, the maf still does all the work.
In 94 ford got rid of the bap sensor all together, and started calculating that function based on map at start up.
when you base the tune strictly off map, any leaks, or blow by, a line pops off anything, and your tune is off what ever you leak. Depending on the leak, that could be a little or a lot.
I loose the maf for some reason, bypass blows off, clamp slips, what ever, the computer defaults to what ever i tell it to, and the computer sets a code, and the check engine light tells me something is wrong.
You loose map signal, or it's bleeding off somewhere, you will never know, unless you are logging, have a gauge, or it sets a code.
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