another one for the AC gurus

[musclestang89]

You are correct they are quite pricey and I am like you don't want to spend the money. Lucky for me it is no longer my daily driver tough I love driving the car and it gives a good ride. I guess the car is just getting old.

[Baron Von Crowder]

You are correct they are quite pricey and I am like you don't want to spend the money. Lucky for me it is no longer my daily driver tough I love driving the car and it gives a good ride. I guess the car is just getting old.

oh hell we've dropped price a bunch, they are running under 50 for a used one

[shumpertdavid]

You have a lot of variables at play here, without a proper knowledge of the a\c electrical system and possibly a quality scantool that will allow you access the Engine and ATC data you are pissing in the wind. You might stumble upon the cause by accident but aside from throwing some pressure switches and a relay at it your pretty well out of luck. If you're going to try it yourself, start with the basics. Make sure you have voltage at the a\c compressor when you have it commanded on. If you don't have at or near battery voltage with the car running, there is something in the system keeping it from turning the relay on most likely.

And as stated earlier, there's a reason we have expensive recovery machines in this profession. You're just playing a guessing game using a can tap and set of gauges, but good luck to you.

[Captain Crawfish]

David you don't need expensive machines to fix it. Makes life easier for sure though

[bonnie&clyde]

So for those of you with expensive machines, how much to hook it up and tell me where the fault is, I can fix it myself just need to figure out what the issue is, I'll be back out there working on it this afternoon

[shumpertdavid]

David you don't need expensive machines to fix it. Makes life easier for sure though

I can go through a very long spill about how missing the required charge amount by as little as 10% reduces the system lubrication circulation by 50% and also that at any given time there's only about 50% of the system oil circulating through the system at any given time. It doesn't take a genius to know that when you starve a motor for oil it destroys itself. Look at the amount of internal compressor failures and\or a\c clutch component failures now as compared to when r12 was in service (assuming you're old enough to have worked with r12, I was just starting into the business after r134a was factory). I'm not good enough to guess the correct charge amount based on gauge readings alone. There are ways to verify system fill in fixed orifice tube systems using contact temperature probes and such on the inlet and outlet of the evaporator, but that's not always easy.

Point is, it's tough to accurately hit the correct amount when you're using a hand set of gauges and can tap. Too many variables, the amount of r134a that the lines hold, the gauge manifold, the small amount left in the can that when the pressures equalize, etc.

So for those of you with expensive machines, how much to hook it up and tell me where the fault is, I can fix it myself just need to figure out what the issue is, I'll be back out there working on it this afternoon

As to you're issue at hand, the 20 minute time it might take the compressor to finally engage doesn't require the use of an a\c machine to initially diagnose aside from verifying enough system pressure to operate the pressure switches. A decent scan tool would be a good help in possibly diagnosing the issue, but you can do some basic checks at the relay location to verify if the relay is receiving power and signals to actually cycle it on. At some point you will hit a point where you will need system diagrams to verify other signals and such if it gets much passed the relay checking good.

One last thing I didn't see mentioned, verify the a\c clutch gap isn't excessive. Generally if this is the case it will engage when the cars cold and as it generates underhood heat, the clutch coil won't be able to pull the clutch hub in. However if it's really worn to a large gap it will struggle to pull it in period. Start the car and turn the a\c on, use a long stick, wrench, prybar, etc to tap the clutch face, if it engages when you smack it, it's the gap being too large of the coil weak. If it has a big gap, remove the center bolt, work the outer hub off, remove the small shim that's either inside the hub or stuck on the end of the shaft, and reinstall the hub and bolt. As long as there's enough gap for the hub to spin freely and not drag, start the car and see if it will engage on it's own.

[dee]

I can go through a very long spill about how missing the required charge amount by as little as 10% reduces the system lubrication circulation by 50% and also that at any given time there's only about 50% of the system oil circulating through the system at any given time. It doesn't take a genius to know that when you starve a motor for oil it destroys itself. Look at the amount of internal compressor failures and\or a\c clutch component failures now as compared to when r12 was in service (assuming you're old enough to have worked with r12, I was just starting into the business after r134a was factory). I'm not good enough to guess the correct charge amount based on gauge readings alone. There are ways to verify system fill in fixed orifice tube systems using contact temperature probes and such on the inlet and outlet of the evaporator, but that's not always easy.

Point is, it's tough to accurately hit the correct amount when you're using a hand set of gauges and can tap. Too many variables, the amount of r134a that the lines hold, the gauge manifold, the small amount left in the can that when the pressures equalize, etc.





As to you're issue at hand, the 20 minute time it might take the compressor to finally engage doesn't require the use of an a\c machine to initially diagnose aside from verifying enough system pressure to operate the pressure switches. A decent scan tool would be a good help in possibly diagnosing the issue, but you can do some basic checks at the relay location to verify if the relay is receiving power and signals to actually cycle it on. At some point you will hit a point where you will need system diagrams to verify other signals and such if it gets much passed the relay checking good.

One last thing I didn't see mentioned, verify the a\c clutch gap isn't excessive. Generally if this is the case it will engage when the cars cold and as it generates underhood heat, the clutch coil won't be able to pull the clutch hub in. However if it's really worn to a large gap it will struggle to pull it in period. Start the car and turn the a\c on, use a long stick, wrench, prybar, etc to tap the clutch face, if it engages when you smack it, it's the gap being too large of the coil weak. If it has a big gap, remove the center bolt, work the outer hub off, remove the small shim that's either inside the hub or stuck on the end of the shaft, and reinstall the hub and bolt. As long as there's enough gap for the hub to spin freely and not drag, start the car and see if it will engage on it's own.

There are only 2 ways I've found to charge without a machine and it be extremely close to spec charge. One takes a bit of time and generally a mostly full tank of refridgerant while the other requires access to the evaporator intake and exhaust lines. It is still paramount that the proper oil charge is used.

I'd bet the problem is in the atc set up. The a.c. system on those cars is pretty solid otherwise besides a few hose issues in certain years and electronic blend door motors.

[JETFAST]

bring it by my shop. I will evacuate and recharge it for you. Maybe over charged on freon, or has to much oil in the system.

[musclestang89]

oh hell we've dropped price a bunch, they are running under 50 for a used one

Where can I get in touch with you for a used one.

[Baron Von Crowder]

just call your local L K Q

[JETFAST]

just call your local L K Q

Don't Forget To Mention Baron Von Crowder for The DFWSTANG's Deep Dick'n Discount! WOOT, WOOOOT!?!?!?

[Baron Von Crowder]

Don't Forget To Mention Baron Von Crowder for The DFWSTANG's Deep Dick'n Discount! WOOT, WOOOOT!?!?!?

You need a deep dick'n?

[JETFAST]

No SIR! I am more then happy with the last service you provided, thank you kindly!

[Baron Von Crowder]

No SIR! I am more then happy with the last service you provided, thank you kindly!

HA!

[JETFAST]

Hopefully Ol'Clyde don't freeze to death on his ride home! HAHAHAH!