Brake Pads..

[gav91183]

Anyone have a preference of brake pads they use? This is going on my '02 WS6. It's my DD and I'm occasionally hard on the brakes. would want something with bite, yet low noise and dust.

[Txstang1]

If you get ceramic brake pads you will have a shitload less brake dust on your wheels, as opposed to the house brand lifetime warranty ones. So get ceramic !!!!

[gav91183]

If you get ceramic brake pads you will have a shitload less brake dust on your wheels, as opposed to the house brand lifetime warranty ones. So get ceramic !!!!

any particular brand?

[Txstang1]

I can't remember , it was whatever oreillys had.

[bcoop]

I always use ceramics. They'll cost you more, but worth it. I don't know if it's the way I drive or what, but when I get the cheap pads, they ALWAYS squeal, and no amount of that brake quiet shit will shut them up. Since I've started using ceramics, I've got no noise, and less dust.

[lxturbo]

Only thing is the ceramics will eat the rotors ,well at least mine are not liking the ceramics but tough shit this nigga likes his chit to stop on a dime and give change !!!!!
Whats sad is my car came with ceramics but I did not like how they felt and bought the wagners from oreilly I like them alot better than the factory crap.

[Vertnut]

I didn't care for ceramics on my '02 SS. After trying several pads, I went to the Hawk HPS pads. About $160 for front/back, and I loved them.

[Baron Von Crowder]

This may not make sense to most, but, Carbotec sells brake pads that are GREAT, very grippy, low dust, easy on rotors, and will last forever on a spirited driven daily. Xp8's should be PLENTY. Only downside is that they arent cheap. Considering they will outlast two or three sets of ceramics, and wont warp up the rotors or eat them at the same rate. it works out in the end.

We run a set of xp10s on our racecars that last multiple endurance races.

[Mark04]

I just put EBC ultimax pads on my 2004 GT last month and love them so far. I was using ceramic Autozone pads before and found that they ate my brembo rotors up in less than 20,000 miles of spirited driving.

[kingjason]

I didn't care for ceramics on my '02 SS. After trying several pads, I went to the Hawk HPS pads. About $160 for front/back, and I loved them.

Hawks are bad ass. Would lock up my 37's on a Ford F150 I had.

[stevo]

Maybe someone can elaborate on something I was told. When I converted my old Jeep to disc front brakes, I was told since I was going with a manual master cylinder and not power brakes, that going with organic pads would grip better with the lower line pressure, does this sound right?

I'm not sure if it is correct, but with 11" discs in the front and 10" drums out back, it stops pretty damn well. In my case though, I don't drive it in any situation to cause brake fade.

Stevo

[Baron Von Crowder]

Maybe someone can elaborate on something I was told. When I converted my old Jeep to disc front brakes, I was told since I was going with a manual master cylinder and not power brakes, that going with organic pads would grip better with the lower line pressure, does this sound right?

I'm not sure if it is correct, but with 11" discs in the front and 10" drums out back, it stops pretty damn well. In my case though, I don't drive it in any situation to cause brake fade.

Stevo

The master cyl doesnt give a shit how easy it is to push the pedal....

[stevo]

The master cyl doesnt give a shit how easy it is to push the pedal....

I understand this, it was my understanding that a brake booster allows for a higher brake line pressure given the same brake pedal input pressure as compared to manual brakes, and that manual brakes cannot attain the same amount of brake line pressure overall as that of a power assisted master cylinder, hence the advice that a softer, organic brake pad would offer a higher coefficient of drag and better stopping force at lower line pressures with cooler disc/pad temperatures, where as non-organic pads offer more braking friction when used in an environment where higher pad/disc temperatures and line pressures are the norm. Can you address that?

Stevo

[Baron Von Crowder]

I understand this, it was my understanding that a brake booster allows for a higher brake line pressure given the same brake pedal input pressure as compared to manual brakes, and that manual brakes cannot attain the same amount of brake line pressure overall as that of a power assisted master cylinder, hence the advice that a softer, organic brake pad would offer a higher coefficient of drag and better stopping force at lower line pressures with cooler disc/pad temperatures, where as non-organic pads offer more braking friction when used in an environment where higher pad/disc temperatures and line pressures are the norm. Can you address that?

Stevo

Alright, look at it this way: a master cyl is a piston that pushes fluid, in its simplest form.

Piston goes in, fluid goes out. Push it farther, more fluid. Push it less, less fluid.

Now, to apply the same amount of piston travel, you will need to put more effort into a manual than a power assisted setup. All the power does is assist, so to the master, it is the same. There will be pressure applied back. Power assist helps with the effort that you expend doing the work, it has nothing to do with the amount of work is getting done.

The only way you can have less pressure is with less pedal travel.

[stevo]

Alright, look at it this way: a master cyl is a piston that pushes fluid, in its simplest form.

Piston goes in, fluid goes out. Push it farther, more fluid. Push it less, less fluid.

Now, to apply the same amount of piston travel, you will need to put more effort into a manual than a power assisted setup. All the power does is assist, so to the master, it is the same. There will be pressure applied back. Power assist helps with the effort that you expend doing the work, it has nothing to do with the amount of work is getting done.

The only way you can have less pressure is with less pedal travel.

Yes, I know how a master cylinder works. I know how leverage works, I understand how the multiplication of pressure via different length levers onto a fluid filled cylinder works, I am asking if anyone knows if a softer, organic pad works better at lower line pressures and cooler pad/disc temperatures versus a harder non-organic pad running at hotter temperatures. Not all brake pads have the same coefficient of drag due to the different materials, different intended uses and different ranges of intended operating temperatures.

As for the theory that I may have an incorrect pedal travel/cylinder ratio, I have a complete matching pedal assembly/master cylinder/brake caliper/wheel cylinder from a later model Jeep, it has what Jeep designed. It may not be optimal, but it is what it is. But this isn't really important and has nothing to do with the actual question. My question doesn't have to do with any of the operating mechanicals of a master cylinder, it has to do with the brake pads. Since this is a thread about which pads offer better stopping ability, I figured it might be applicable.

So far, you have try to explain something to me that I already know fully, instead of answering the actual question I asked. If you don't know the answer it is okay.

Stevo