shit i got that in spare copper just laying around.. smart idea
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Basically that is all it is. U can't tell in the pics but at the end of every dog leg is a ball valve. I just simply open them and moisture runs out. I think each leg is about 6 or 7" long, and at the beginning of each work session I drain all of them. Usually the one closest to the compressor is the one that collects the most moisture.--carlos
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Oh, and just in case you don't know, the way it works, copper cools the hot moist air from the compressor which in turns becomes liquid and runs down the tubing and collects in the dog legs.
www.garagejournal.com has quite a few threads on this topic.--carlos
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Northern Tool has a compressor in stock now that is the exact same thing as the IR shopmate that I have - for about 100-150 less.
It's a single stage compressor and about half as loud as those oil-less compressors.
If you're going to be doing this a lot though, I'd just be done with it - but a 2 stage, 220V compressor and have at it.Originally posted by MR EDDU defend him who use's racial slurs like hes drinking water.
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try to get a old belt drive, their a lot quieter than any direct driveDon't worry about what you can't change.
Do the best you can with what you have.
Be honest, even if it hurts.
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy; Its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery" ... Winston Churchill
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Sorry I don't have any pics but . I run an 5 horse 80 gallon Ingersoll rand compressor TS5. outlets has a 3/4" ball valve then a 3/4" braided steel flexible hose connected to a 3/4" copper pipe. Pipe runs the length of the garage wall the a 90 up to the ceiling runs the length of the wall again in the opposite direction then a splits. One line goes to 'shop/paint booth' that connects to a Sharpe dry air membrane filter. other line goes back down wall again to a drop leg with a generic northern tool water trap and regulator. Most of the water condenses in the pipes which are all sloped to the down legs and connected to drains. I enjoy the pics of the guys that attach their filters right to the compressor outlet and state they never have to drain them. You have to cool the air to condense the water out of it for the filters to work.
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I read somewhere about painting and coiling a midsection of line and setting it in ice water, but i didnt see how that could help if the condensed water still sat in the line.. the moisture trap seems much more practical, albeit, i will have to find a more permanent place for the compressor.
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I've seen it done with a 5gal bucket up on a shelf above the compressor. With about 20-25ft of copper coil in the bucket. Every time painting was going to be done the painter would dump a couple of bags of ice in the bucket. He rigged a spigot to the bottom of bucket for draining once ice melted.--carlos
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So i wanted to update this! I got a PM from a board member saying he had an old compressor at his shop that had a bad pump and needed to go. he said it was free if i hauled it off. Big thanks again to to Orphan Shelby, nice to meet you.
So here is what i have.. at first i was a bit unsure that i would even be able to use something like this, but the more i'm researching compressors i realize that i do have options.
So here is what I got.
Anyone have experience with refurbing one of these things or know someone who does it professionally? I am definitely going to keep this, so i'd like to make it work!
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've seen the replacement motors from 150-500 up to $1000. i need to measure the flanges but whats the main difference between the vtwin style versus the straight up and down style?
here is googling "5hp compressor pump"
are these things fairly universal?
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