Easy, self tuning EFI selection for 1965 Mustang

[mustangguy289]

I am looking into going to EFI via the FAST EZ-EFI, FAST EZ-EFI 2.0, OR Edelbrock E-street EFI on my 1965 Mustang. I am after ease of use, street ability, easy cold starts, not showing up smelling like a gas tank when I drive it places.

Current setup is:

289 bored 30 over
AFR 185 heads (58 CC)
11.4:1 compression
XR280R Solid Roller Cam (351w firing order)
Holley Street HP 650
Victor JR single plane intake port matched to heads
Hooker Super Comp Headers
Naturally Aspirated
MSD Billet Distributor and 6AL box

Gforce T5 Transmission
4.33 gears

Cam Specs:
Intake: 608 lift, 242 dur at .05
Exh: 614 lift, 248 dur at .05

Best Run to date is 11.82 at 115 mph (never been on a dyno)

1.) Whichever system I go with, I plan to purchase the master kit with inline pump.
2.) The extra ignition timing feature on the Fast 2.0 is a nice addition but not sure if worth the extra money since timing is easy enough to set manually.
3.) I want a clean, minimal wire look when I open the hood.
4.) The only port on my intake for water temp is being used by my water temp gauge, how is everyone handling this? I need a place for the EFI temp sensor and also my gauge sensor.

[Lone Star Performance]

FAST 2.0 for best drivability.

[mustangguy289]

FAST 2.0 for best drivability.

I am heavily leaning to that and finding it easier to justify the extra $600 for that system.


Do you have personal experience with it?

[mustangguy289]

I have been watching a lot of videos and reading on these systems. A lot of places say up to 600 HP go with version 1, anything above 600 go with the 2.0. I am no where near that 600. So would the 2.0 be too much for my motor?

The 2.0 has the following benefits that are persuading me:
-Much cleaner install ( one wire harness coming out of TB instead of 5 or 6 with the 1st version)
- Timing adjustment capabilities by locking out my MSD
- Color touch screen makes viewing real time data much better
- Much more user adjustable to fine tune and more options for future engine mods.

[4EyedTurd]

Megasquirt with Tunerstudio and auto tune?

[Baron Von Crowder]

I havent done any research on the options, but have you looked at the holley HP stuff? I considered swapping out my commander ECM with the HP for the autotune feature.

[Lone Star Performance]

2.0 works awesome for mild daily drivers to heavily modified.

The adjustability and tuning is fantastic. Ive done a lot of the MSD Atomic, Edelbrock, FAST , etc. I just overall like the FAST for function, features, tuning and drivability.

[mustangguy289]

Megasquirt with Tunerstudio and auto tune?

This is all relatively new to me so excuse the stupid questions. When checking out the Megasquirt website, all I see is the ECU. I do not see complete conversion kits. Which TB and Injectors do you use with those kits? I do not want do the hideous 5.0 EFI intake swap or have to add injectors and fuel rails to my intake. That would probably cause this little project to cost a lot more than it's worth. ( I might be wrong).

On the FAST forums, they are worried that my large cam and small displacement will cause low vacuum issues with the EZ-EFI auto tune set ups. One more thing to check before pulling the plug.

[Lone Star Performance]

How much vacuum are you pulling at idle?

[mustangguy289]

How much vacuum are you pulling at idle?

I have never measured it. I will get a gauge and check it asap...not messing with getting it to idle in the cold weather we have today lol. They are saying it needs a minimum of 7-10 " to work correctly. If it is less than 7" I need to go to the XFI system and that will put all of this well over $3k.

[lilvega]

I am not trying to be difficult here but I think you could fix all your issues for far less money. EFI is great but your setup sounds a little out of tune. A 289 spinning below 7000 rpm only needs a 550 cfm carb and vacuum secondaries at that. Most people make the mistake of too big a carb and too large intake port size. 185cc heads are for 347 and larger engines. Even 11+ comp ratio won't create enough port velocity. You need closer to 14 to 1 compression. 165 or 170cc would be much better.

I am willing to bet that if you put a wide band on your current setup you are running very rich while cruising.

[lilvega]

I came home smelling like a gas tank for years while driving my 69 until I got rid of the dumps and carried the exhaust out the back. Trunk and gas tank seals help a lot too.

[mustangguy289]

I am not trying to be difficult here but I think you could fix all your issues for far less money. EFI is great but your setup sounds a little out of tune. A 289 spinning below 7000 rpm only needs a 550 cfm carb and vacuum secondaries at that. Most people make the mistake of too big a carb and too large intake port size. 185cc heads are for 347 and larger engines. Even 11+ comp ratio won't create enough port velocity. You need closer to 14 to 1 compression. 165 or 170cc would be much better.

I am willing to bet that if you put a wide band on your current setup you are running very rich while cruising.

I totally agree with everything you have said here. Maybe I should just put a 347 bottom end under what I currently have!

[lilvega]

There is no replacement for displacement. Your setup is perfect for 331 or 347. Spend the $2200 EFI money on a dart shp block and scat rods. Then you will only have to come up with another $600 for crank and pistons.

[mustangguy289]

My long term plans for this car( probably about 3 yrs off) is to do another complete restore ( it was last restored in 2002) and do a complete coyote 5.0 drive train swap. Before I was always going for the street/strip style. Now, all I want is a really clean restomod that I could drive across country if I want.

Maybe the best thing to do is just hold off and keep throwing money in the good old savings fund! Saving 20-30k over the next few years for a complete rotisserie restoration and re-do everything perfectly. ( I have learned a lot of things differently since when I first restored it at age 14-16.