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1990 Mustang LX (fox) HELP HELP HELP

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  • 1990 Mustang LX (fox) HELP HELP HELP

    Good Afternoon guys. 1990 Mustang Lx (Fox body) running bad and shutting off after getting warm. Had a new engine built and installed in the car and have no clue whats wrong with it. Here are the details....

    Replaced parts after engine install
    *computer
    *distributor, distributor cap and module
    *coil
    *Iac
    *Tpi
    *egr
    *all vaccuum hoses
    *fuel filter, pump, regulator
    *injectors
    *radiator with electric fans
    *water pump
    *both O2 sensors
    *alternator
    *selenoid
    *ignition switch
    *headers
    *cold air filter

    and probably some more stuff that I'm forgetting. Needless to say. The car misses and after running for about 30 min, it'll shut down and won't crank again until it cools down. After all that, I got discouraged and parked it for about a yr and a half. I decided this morning to run some codes on it and here's what I found.

    *Key on
    84 - EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) Control Circuit Failure (O)
    14 - Profile Ignition Pickup Circuit Failure (CM)
    33 - EGR Valve Opening Not Detected (CM,R)
    66 - , MAF signal below minimum test voltage of .4vdc (O,CM,R), Transmission Fluid Temperature Circuit Grounded (CM,O)

    *Cranked
    21 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Out Of Self Test Range. 0.3 to 3.7 volts(O,R)
    92 - o2 Sensor Circuit Indicates Rich -driver side(R), No o2 Sensor Switching Detected. always rich -driver side(CM), Shift Solenoid 2 Circuit Failure (O)
    33 - EGR Valve Opening Not Detected (CM,R)

    *Cylinder test
    70 - Cylinder #7 Failed Cylinder Balance Test

    Does any body out there know what it's going to take to fix this as you can see I've already spent a fortune. Or if a mechanic that works on Mustangs in the DWF area that I can let them come get it and keep it until it's fixed. I'm very discouraged and any help is well appreciated!!!

  • #2
    Give me a call if you'd like. Scott 469-247-2223
    Scott Ganow
    Lone Star Performance
    16300 Midway Rd
    Addison, TX 75001
    214-630-5006

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    • #3
      DUDE! This sounds EXACTLY what my 01 3.8 V6 coupe was doing! Check the internal cam position sensor and the syncroniser. If it squeaks or squeals when running wonky, it is NOT THE IDLE pulley! My baby is currently at Ford awaiting the replacement parts, which is where the diagnosis was discovered.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Taimigrrl87 View Post
        DUDE! This sounds EXACTLY what my 01 3.8 V6 coupe was doing! Check the internal cam position sensor and the syncroniser. If it squeaks or squeals when running wonky, it is NOT THE IDLE pulley! My baby is currently at Ford awaiting the replacement parts, which is where the diagnosis was discovered.
        5.0 doesn't have a cam sensor lol

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        • #5
          Personally I'd check all grounds as well as trying a different injector harness?

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          • #6
            I had a similar issue on a 94 GT.
            It would start and drive for 15 mins or so and then stall. No re-start for probably 30 mins.
            Replaced the coil, no fix.
            Replaced the Dist, bam. Ran fine. The magnetic pickup was borderline bad and the heat put it over the edge. Once it cooled off it worked fine. Is you dist brand new or a rebuilt from a parts house? Even new stuff can be junk.
            Run it until it dies and then check spark and fuel.
            Engines only need 3 things to run: Compressed Air, Fuel and Spark at the right time. The Air part won't really change without catastrophic failure.
            You are either losing fuel or spark.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Whiteboy View Post
              5.0 doesn't have a cam sensor lol
              Mine does.

              However the second part on his list would indicate a lack thereof.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by lilvega View Post
                You are either losing fuel or spark.
                I tend to agree, but the car should still crank without either of those two.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by UserX View Post
                  I tend to agree, but the car should still crank without either of those two.
                  I was replying off the assumption that "cranking" equaled starting. I guess he should clarify.
                  I can't think of anything that would make an engine die and then keep it from turning over too.

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                  • #10
                    it'll crank, but it won't turn over!
                    sigpic

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Magnus View Post
                      it'll crank, but it won't turn over!


                      The OP needs to clarify.

                      To me, no crank equals turning the key and nothing happens.

                      No start is the engine turning over but won't fire up (compression, fuel, spark issue).

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                      • #12
                        Sounds like the pickup coil in the distributor and/or the TFI module

                        Just because you replaced a part doesn't mean you didn't replace it worth a faulty one
                        http://www.truthcontest.com/entries/...iversal-truth/

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                        • #13
                          Thanks for all the replys guys..but honestly, everything's been replaced. Some things even twice to make sure I didn't get a bad part. Today, did get an interesting code though....96 - Fuel Pump Circuit Open-Battery To PCM (CM,O). Could this be the issue with the car losing the pump if a circuit is open? Just putting it out there.

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