So when I set the timing on the car to where it runs good and then turn the car off and try to restart it it won't start...I get out and move the distributor a little bit and then it starts...but runs kinda shitty until I move the distributor back a bit...what could be the problem? Won't start when it's timed right but will when it's not timed right...I'm confused lol
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Crank no start 90 lx 5.0
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Originally posted by homealone View PostAre you pulling the spout connector when you time it? If not, you'll be 20 degrees off.Originally posted by SilverbackLook all you want, she can't find anyone else who treats her as bad as I do, and I keep her self esteem so low, she wouldn't think twice about going anywhere else.
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Spout was out and timed it to 12 ish degrees and seemed to run good until I turn the car off and try to restart it...IT WILL NOT START. So I get out move the distributor clockwise about an inch and it starts...BUT runs like shit...like it's obviously out of time.
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Sounds like you are a tooth off or trying to time it off the wrong cylinder.
1. Make sure you are using the front passenger side cylinder as #1.
2. Make sure you are at TDC on the #1 cylinder when you stab the distributor.
Or.... your balancer ring has spun and your timing marks are way off now.
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Originally posted by homealone View PostSounds like you are a tooth off or trying to time it off the wrong cylinder.
1. Make sure you are using the front passenger side cylinder as #1.
2. Make sure you are at TDC on the #1 cylinder when you stab the distributor.Originally posted by SilverbackLook all you want, she can't find anyone else who treats her as bad as I do, and I keep her self esteem so low, she wouldn't think twice about going anywhere else.
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Car was running flawlessly smooth and perfect. Went out to start it one day and it just started cranking...hadn't touched it prior. I was diagnosing it and one of the things I was move the distributor to see if the injectors clicked and fuel purged and when it did I knew all that was right. Moved the distributor an inch or so like I said and the car finally started after trying to get it started for a few days when all it would do it crank...again, the distributor was locked down in place and running perfectly until this whole crabk no start thing. Now, the only way it'll start is if you turn the distributor out of time..
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something to check.
Does your Crane ignition box have a starting retard function? This is for carb cars or cars setup like mine where I lock the ignition out and it idles at 40 degrees... if you do have this function set to on, it will be trying to start the car at like 172 degrees or some shit... basically 12-20... the car wont start for shit like that and will usually backfire and die. Since you said it starts when you rotate the disty an inch clockwise which is advancing the timing, this is what I think is wrong with the car.
Check to see if it has a retard function, and if it does, defeat it. i almost bet the car fires right up next go around without touching the disty.
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It doesn't have that function..that I know of. It's not hooked up that's for sure, and actually I couldn't get the led light on the side of it to power on so I'm assuming it's messed up so I removed it and have it hooked up to the stock ignition.
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I guess I should have read your initial post. I assumed this was a continuation of your last one.
You seem to have an intermittent ignition delivery problem.
The first thing I would do is remove all that Crane ignition stuff. Crane and MSD are well known for being problematic.
Hook it all up in a stock fashion.
Next, have your ignition module tested. Autozone and O'Reilly have a tester.
Pull the distributor cap and rotor and look at your pickup coil (hall effect sensor) and make sure it is still securely in place. The magnet on those is prone to becoming unattached.
Third, It may sound unrelated but your TPS can cause starting issues. Test that sucker. It can be done with a simple volt meter.
Then check all your wiring.
Once you have it all back together, get it started and re-time it.
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Wiring is all good. Box is off but it's matching lx92 coil is still hooked up. Swapped distributors but noticed the tfi module on the new one I put in was cracked. So I took the one of my original distributor and put it in the spare distributor. Surely 2 distributor wouldn't both be bad in the same way. I guess the tfi module could be checked and as for the rod sensor. It's been good and has worked fine. I could check that too but will that cause the car to have a starting problem? Cap and rotor and brand new...bought less than a week ago
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