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Compression test. Then pull a valve cover.
First simple test before any of that.
Fuel pressure, spark and plug wires.
First simple test before any of that.
Fuel pressure, spark and plug wires.
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The....valve cover. Lol. I won't go that far, gotta pull the intake to pull the valve cover. I am going to try and do some diagnostics next weekend. Check fuel pressure, compression test, etc.Originally posted by Sleeper View PostOriginally posted by LeahComment
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Gotta do what you gotta do.Comment
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My cavalier did the same thing you are experiencing. The tensioner on these motors are spring loaded with 3 plastic shoes. My failure was from lack of lubrication to the guides wore them out allowing slack in the chain then it jumped. If it is the tensioner, guides and chain make sure you clean the tiny oiling hole for the chain.Originally posted by black2002ls View Post
Reading back through this I noticed that you have not checked engine vacuum. Quick test before tearing into it. Get a vacuum gauge and see what the readings are. If they are low(less than 15) its has jumped time.Last edited by kdventura73; 09-29-2014, 08:53 PM.Comment
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I started tearing down the motor today. Got down to the crank pulley. I am borrowing a puller this week and hope to get the front cover pulled at some point this week or next weekend. Once I pulled the serpentine belt, I cranked it up and could feel some rattling through the front cover. At 207k miles, and having the infamous diesel sound for the last 50k or so that has been getting louder, I think my best bet is the tensioner. My hope is to get it driveable and then start on the LS1 swap and everything associated with that.Originally posted by LeahComment
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Yup your going to need a new chain and tensioner. Like I mentioned before MAKE SURE YOU CLEAN THE OIL GALLEY PLUG BEHIND THE TOP SPROCKET(there is a tiny hole in it to lube the chain) or it will trash the new tensioner shoes quick. Also pull the 2 studs that are in the timing cover for the oil pan so you don't have to drop the pan to get the timing cover off.Comment
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I think GM has a revised oil galley plug with a larger orifice. Not sure how big of a PITA it is thoughOriginally posted by kdventura73 View PostOriginally posted by LeahComment
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That was for the LN2 engine, yours is an L43. They weren't a big deal though. If the shoes are shredded you might want to go ahead and drop the pan to clean out the oil screen.Originally posted by black2002ls View PostComment
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Well, here is where I left it tonight
Tensioner is destroyed. Is it possible to pull the pan while the motor is in the truck? I am hoping the valvetrain is not damaged. I need to pick up all of the parts, and put it back together.Originally posted by LeahComment
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New timing set showed up on Thursday. I knew it was a gamble dropping $200 on new parts for a motor that may have serious damage. Spent the day yesterday getting the old broken parts removed and putting it all back together. Flushed the pan with some cheap light weight oil, then did a fresh oil change. Fired it up, and it is running better than it has in 50,000-75,000 miles. Runs quiet, no racket in the front of the motor and no signs of damage. Oil pressure looks good so far as well.
I knew it needed to be done for some time, I just never made the time to get it done. I kind of hate that I let it go and just bought a different vehicle. The lack of motivation to replace $200 in parts, resulted in a $200/mo car payment. On the other hand, after driving it for a bit, I am glad that I let it get that bad. I wouldn't have gotten something better to drive had it not let go!
The plan for now is to put a couple hundred miles on it, fix a few other minor issues and sell it. I would like to flip it and pick up a mid 90's extended cab z71.
Thanks for all of the help and insight.Originally posted by LeahComment
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