Read the first part about measuring the pushrod.
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'68 Camaro disc swap issue
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Originally posted by jw33 View Posthttp://www.maximummotorsports.com/as...s/MMBAK-17.pdf
Read the first part about measuring the pushrod.--carlos
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Brakes, you are working on the Brakes.
As NoClassic posted, I would check the rod coming out of the booster that pushes the piston on the M/C. If the lines are long enough you might possibly be able to rotate it far enough forward to get your measurements without having to fully remove it. Also the pushrod connection at the brake pedal could be over extended as mentioned before. Like they said, if you can remove the rod from the brake pedal and install it without having to compress the rod then it shouldn't be a problem. If you feel resistance like you are compressing the master cylinder piston as the master cylinder bottoms out on the booster then there is likely an adjustment issue some where.
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Originally posted by shumpertdavid View PostBrakes, you are working on the Brakes.
As NoClassic posted, I would check the rod coming out of the booster that pushes the piston on the M/C. If the lines are long enough you might possibly be able to rotate it far enough forward to get your measurements without having to fully remove it. Also the pushrod connection at the brake pedal could be over extended as mentioned before. Like they said, if you can remove the rod from the brake pedal and install it without having to compress the rod then it shouldn't be a problem. If you feel resistance like you are compressing the master cylinder piston as the master cylinder bottoms out on the booster then there is likely an adjustment issue some where."If I asked people what they wanted, they would have said faster horses." - Henry Ford
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It looks like he has a disc/drum proportioning valve on it. Make sure that it plumbed correctly. The one in the photo looks like a Right Stuff valve. The front two ports are disc and the rear port is drum. https://getdiscbrakes.com/drop/Instructions/AFXDC.pdf
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That's another problem. The rod between the pedal and booster is in a fixed position. If I turn it in the direction that I think it should go, all it does is either pull away from the pedal or against the pedal. If I turn it so as to draw it back or out of the booster, it applies pressure on the pedal and brake lights come on.--carlos
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Originally posted by projectPONY View PostForgot to mention that the break pedal is stiff. No play whatsoever.Originally posted by NoClassic View PostI really doubt the issue is with the pedal side rod unless you are having to compress it in order to get the cross pin through the pedal arm.Originally posted by projectPONY View PostThat's another problem. The rod between the pedal and booster is in a fixed position. If I turn it in the direction that I think it should go, all it does is either pull away from the pedal or against the pedal. If I turn it so as to draw it back or out of the booster, it applies pressure on the pedal and brake lights come on.
Take a look at this. In most cases you should have a little play between the pedal stop and pressure on the booster rod. If you are pressed up against the stop and as stated above, you have to compress the rod to install the pin, you are activating the brakes.
I think you are on the right track with the rod adjustment. Turn the rod so it pulls away from the pedal. Yes, this will activate the brake lights because the switch activates when the button is released. To correct this, the switch is threaded to adjust in and out. Readjust this and the lights will operate properly.
Sorry about the big pic.
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