i give up, soo,,....

[fbodyjohnny]

this is what im going to do now...
since NOBODY,, as in ( performance shops etc etc... ) can understand WHAT i want as far as an engine build, im just going to do it myself with the help of my dad and my uncle. i have tried and tried with damn near everybody, but they dont understand what i want and why i want it that way. its simple, all i want is a rock solid dart block, preferably 331 c.i. with a forged/balanced crank, forged connecting rods, forged pistons ( dished for lower compression ) trickflow or AFR heads that would work well for boost, and of course a cam, intake manifold throttle body that will be easy on the street, and of course deliver max performance under pressure.... its THAT easy... i've lowered my HP goal to 475-500 at the wheels, so i dont understand why they all try telling me that its going to be NORTH of 15,000 for just the engine, nothing else... its either that or they all try telling me i need a 347 or 363 to get the job done, but that will use more oil on street driving, blah blah or they just dont email me back. so i have began my research and started building a list, found a nice dart block, fully machined and choice of any crank, rods, and piston setup for a decent price. im just stuck on that, idk what heads to go with. the power adder will be a new procharger setup, if i can tune for 12-15 psi OR whatever psi needed to reach my goal. whether it be 9 psi from the procharger and some help from water/meth, i dont care. for the compression ratio, i do understand that i need to stay in the low 8's and maybe 9, but then again, heads can change that as well so thats where im confused. also, there is a long list of probably 1 million other parts i need so any help, or suggestions would be appreciated. sorry for the long post, but i just had to get this off my chest. thanks ahead of time

[TENGRAM]

There is no reason to do a 331 over a 347 except for some old busted myth.

[fbodyjohnny]

forgot to add. the rest of the setup will be- TKO 600 tranny, alluminum driveshaft, 3.55 rear end gears, moser 31 spline axles, ( after 5 lug conversion ) and then 16" weld wheels front and back. rears will be tall but nothing more than what it is now, cant remember the treadwall.

[fbodyjohnny]

There is no reason to do a 331 over a 347 except for some old busted myth.

thats what im trying to figure out, i mean yea they are both still 302 based right? but what is this i keep hearing about 347's and 363's bein bad on oil for street driving??? i dont WANT the extra cubes, but if i ABDSOLUTELY have to have them to get 475-500 to the wheels with the procharger, i guess i'll just have to suck it up and go that way.

[fbodyjohnny]

this is what im thinking.. it might be a bit OVERKILL on the strength side, but for its price, and ratings, this is something well worth the money.. tell me what you think.
reverse dome, -20.1cc there is also another one just like this with -14cc reverse dome..

http://www.coasthigh.com/11938-PS-F331-SB-p/11938-ps-f331-sb.htm

[fbodyjohnny]

the block with -14.2cc pistons seems like it would be more ideal, it says that with 61.0cc heads it would bring it to a 9.14 comp ratio, sounds like right on the money for 9 psi or more right?

[fbodyjohnny]

fml. im so confused. im trying to understand this "head" business, so as im looking for trickflow heads to go with this block, im not finding 61.0 cc heads, what am i not understanding?

[black50]

15k gawd dam..You could buy the parts yourself and do it for under half that cost..

But why are you wanting a dart block for that amount of hp..Piece of mind in knowing the block wont split and future upgrades?

[fbodyjohnny]

yes.... i know that no matter HOW an engine is built or how it is treated,, something will eventually break, BUT, i dont want to run 500 hp on a weak block.. dart block all the way. even though the Iron block will be a bit heavier, but it aint like its going to absolutely kill it lol.

[fbodyjohnny]

they also have some crate engine options on there, looking into that as well. the street fighter series, good up to 800hp. AFR heads, any compression ratio, damn near everything all ready to go. in my situation, this might be the way i go. something thats already built. i would LOVE to put one together with the help of my dad and uncle though. would definitely be fun, and good to know some bits and pieces of how to do shit like that. i dont know much, my "mechanical" skills arent much, i could easily do a tranny swap, change out a clutch, driveshaft, rear end, and do brakes and small things like that but i'm not ready to step into the engine work world... i have a lot to learn about that.

[Denny]

Shit, just get a stud-girdled block and save your money from the Dart ass-raping. You're not looking for enough power to matter anyway.

[fbodyjohnny]

i know. the main girdle option they have seems pretty stout as well, and for my driving style, i guess it would be ok, but for my track days, i dont want to risk it. i DEFINITELY want to stud girlde, i know what its like to blow rocker arms and ditch valves into clylinders.. not cool, did it on my cobalt twice, so investing in stud girdles is going to be a good idea. main girdle, stud girdle, 2 different things... right? thats what im seeing at least...

[Denny]

Please don't get your Cobalt's block confused with a small block Ford.

I've got a 331 DSS long block with the Stage I ported Twisted Wedge Heads and Stage II TFS cam. I wouldn't hesitate to go up to 600hp on it.

And I'm talking about a main girdle (but support anything else you can as well):

[fbodyjohnny]

yes, i know you were talkin about the main girdle, i looked into that as well. what do you think about stud girdles?? worth it? seems like it to me... i said that about my cobalt because with these small block fords having stud girdles on the valvetrain, it would almost seem IMPOSSIBLE to have "valve float" occur with boost or just flat out high rpms....

[Denny]

I think they're a great idea. They provide valvetrain stability at high RPMs. My main point is that if you're going to sink that kind of money into a Dart-blocked motor for only 475hp, I thought you'd like to know that there are cheaper, reliable alternatives while still yeilding the same results.