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  • #16
    Originally posted by Baron Von Crowder View Post
    Ive had people argue with me, but I feel like there is a large difference between 500hp at 6k and 500hp at 7500. These engines vibrate quite a bit, I think that is where the cracking is coming from. I've never cracked a block, but have run a 300 shot on a hci 302. Either way, its all borrowed time at those numbers.
    I don't plan on going over 6500, maybe less with nitrous.

    320rwhp. 7.67 @ 90mph 1.7 60'

    DD: 2004 GMC Sierra VHO 6.0 LQ9 324whp 350wtrq

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    • #17
      I ran a 150 shot on a 94 stock GT excp for exhaust/gears and filter about 15 years ago...had it tuned by DOC at The Mustang Shop when it was around...Use to walk stock LS Juan's all day and never had anything break on engine but did break the rear a few times.
      Originally posted by Da Prez
      Fuck dfwstangs!! If Jose ain't running it, I won't even bother going back to it, just my two cents!!
      Originally posted by VETTKLR


      Cliff Notes: I can beat the fuck out of a ZR1

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      • #18
        Mike,

        Ask anyone who was around Denton in the late 90's early 2000's about Jimmy's Green hatch.

        Sneaky, 76Maverick and myself were simply amazed that this car made it back down the return road every time.

        Ran mid to high 6's all day long on a stock short block, TFS heads, X cam and a holley DP...oh and a 250 shot.

        The short block had over 200k on the clock too...
        No girdle and he left the line close to 6500 RPM every launch. Carried the front tires 3ft high thru first and sometimes second if he could still see the guard rail.

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        • #19
          Here's what happened to mine with turbos at around 525 to the wheels, had a girdle etc.

          Was about to split in half as well


          Originally posted by soap
          i can fix anything from a broken tractor to an aching pussy!!!

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          • #20
            Originally posted by 91CoupeMike View Post
            Because I can just get a dry nozzle and get larger injectors for about the same costs. Given my setup which is easier / better to use dry or wet?
            When I think about dry kits, I'm always considering NOS stuff. The nitrous fuel pressure regulator, the blue thing between the 2 nitrous solenoids, uses nitrous pressure to force the fuel pressure regulator closed and basically doubles your fuel pressure. The injector size will allow more or less fuel spray depending on size. If you run a larger injector you will need a larger fuel jet in the regulator bypass (larger jet bleeds more nitrous pressure off so it doesn't build as much fuel pressure). The recommended jetting on a NOS kit is going to be for a standard 19-24lb injector. The 255 pump is just good insurance that you have adequate fuel supply to the injectors.

            Either way as long as you have a good tune and your ignition components are in order you should be good in the range you are talking about.

            Hell, I'm jetted for @ 165hp on a cast piston, cast crank, v-6. I account a severe lack of compression to mine.

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            • #21
              Wet Kit - 125 /150
              24s are enough
              255 is enough
              Tune - Of course

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              • #22
                Originally posted by ktm300hater View Post
                Here's what happened to mine with turbos at around 525 to the wheels, had a girdle etc.

                Was about to split in half as well


                I am building a N/A 347 right now and have done a lot of research about splitting, main girdles, etc.
                The general consensus is that a girdle does very little except make the failure wait a bit longer.

                One trick that I have read about was to install the heads without torqueing. Just finger tight. Then install the intake and torque the intake bolts. Then torque the heads. This can help "pull" the top of the block and valley/cam area together. Doing it the normal way and torqueing the intake last can actually push the heads apart because the SBF intake bolts go straight down and create "wedge".

                The other main advice is to make sure the main caps fit right. Cap walk starts a catastrophic domino effect.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by lilvega View Post
                  I am building a N/A 347 right now and have done a lot of research about splitting, main girdles, etc.
                  The general consensus is that a girdle does very little except make the failure wait a bit longer.

                  One trick that I have read about was to install the heads without torqueing. Just finger tight. Then install the intake and torque the intake bolts. Then torque the heads. This can help "pull" the top of the block and valley/cam area together. Doing it the normal way and torqueing the intake last can actually push the heads apart because the SBF intake bolts go straight down and create "wedge".

                  The other main advice is to make sure the main caps fit right. Cap walk starts a catastrophic domino effect.

                  Good to know! I'll be doing this when it all goes back together.

                  320rwhp. 7.67 @ 90mph 1.7 60'

                  DD: 2004 GMC Sierra VHO 6.0 LQ9 324whp 350wtrq

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Andy@PrimeTuning View Post
                    Wet Kit - 125 /150
                    24s are enough
                    255 is enough
                    Tune - Of course
                    Good to know and of course you'll be the first to know when it's ready.

                    I have a timing pointer now with true tdc marked on the balancer this time.

                    320rwhp. 7.67 @ 90mph 1.7 60'

                    DD: 2004 GMC Sierra VHO 6.0 LQ9 324whp 350wtrq

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      For what it's worth I have arp head bolts and intake studs, with all bolts that go into aluminum heli coiled.. Or soon to be.

                      320rwhp. 7.67 @ 90mph 1.7 60'

                      DD: 2004 GMC Sierra VHO 6.0 LQ9 324whp 350wtrq

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        The only way to "fix" the splitting is to buy a dart. Which is what I did
                        Originally posted by soap
                        i can fix anything from a broken tractor to an aching pussy!!!

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          RPM is what will destroy it when you start making a lot of power, especially if it hasn't been balanced and vibrates in the upper rpm range.

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Super Coupe View Post
                            RPM is what will destroy it when you start making a lot of power, especially if it hasn't been balanced and vibrates in the upper rpm range.
                            Feels smooth up top since the h/c/I and steel balancer.

                            Should have this all done within the next few months hopefully. Just need to get some lighter valve springs and get it all situated so it doesn't turn into a death trap with more power.

                            320rwhp. 7.67 @ 90mph 1.7 60'

                            DD: 2004 GMC Sierra VHO 6.0 LQ9 324whp 350wtrq

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Stock blocks fail above the crank and through the webbing that surrounds the cam bearings and lifter valley. A girdle is a nice thing to stiffen an already structurally sound block - like a DART - but doesn't address the real problem area of a stock roller cam 302 block. Having the extra mass down there will tend to keep the pistons, rod, and chunks of cast iron from spilling out into the street though.

                              If you're going to use nitrous, you're on borrowed time anyway. Spray it like it owes you money. You don't want to tear shit up running a 75-shot like a pussy do ya? Run 175+ for maximum short-lived fun, knowing that the day will come when you'll be picking up the pieces.
                              When the government pays, the government controls.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Originally posted by 46Tbird View Post
                                Stock blocks fail above the crank and through the webbing that surrounds the cam bearings and lifter valley. A girdle is a nice thing to stiffen an already structurally sound block - like a DART - but doesn't address the real problem area of a stock roller cam 302 block. Having the extra mass down there will tend to keep the pistons, rod, and chunks of cast iron from spilling out into the street though.

                                If you're going to use nitrous, you're on borrowed time anyway. Spray it like it owes you money. You don't want to tear shit up running a 75-shot like a pussy do ya? Run 175+ for maximum short-lived fun, knowing that the day will come when you'll be picking up the pieces.
                                This man has a good point. Go big and run some good numbers or just leave it alone.

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