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Originally posted by crapstang View PostYou can't really shake a finger at the 6.0l gas chebbys. If you're just looking for diesel, go with the 6.0. Prices are often low on those, just be sure to know what you're looking at. Assume the time/cost of deletes if you buy one without the work already performed. Coolant filter, oil cooler, studs, EGR delete, custom tunes from Vivian @ quicktrick, and a straight pipe will make your truck run like a bat out of hell forever. You can run a 6.0 without studs most of the time, but if you're in doubt go ahead and do it (especially if the cab is off).
I just picked up an '05 6.0l with only 101k for $2950 Saturday. It's a solid running truck. It's already sold to a local business, and I'll be performing the deletes throughout this week.
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Originally posted by streetdemon70 View Postagreed. I want a set of 08-10 20's for it.
I also have a set of 08-10 King Ranch wheels
(And a set of Platinums and a couple sets of Harleys, but I digress)
LMK
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I like my 6.7 Cummins 4x4 QC 2500. This truck is tough and I give it hell. Bought it for $23k with 67k on it. Deleted it at 80k, popped a head gasket at 90k. Changed the head gasket and studded it myself and have 224k on it now.
If I could do it again.... I'd delete it, leave the smarty on low with timing on high and torque on low AND most importantly change the bolts with studs at the time of the delete. This swap can be done without removing the head which is 70% less labor than removing the head. One stud at a time following the torque sequence.
Cummins are comparatively easy to work on. I would never want to work on a cramped 6.0.
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Originally posted by JV106 View PostI like my 6.7 Cummins 4x4 QC 2500. This truck is tough and I give it hell. Bought it for $23k with 67k on it. Deleted it at 80k, popped a head gasket at 90k. Changed the head gasket and studded it myself and have 224k on it now.
If I could do it again.... I'd delete it, leave the smarty on low with timing on high and torque on low AND most importantly change the bolts with studs at the time of the delete. This swap can be done without removing the head which is 70% less labor than removing the head. One stud at a time following the torque sequence.
Cummins are comparatively easy to work on. I would never want to work on a cramped 6.0.
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Sounds like he's got the timing cranked to the moon. I wouldn't worry about the head gasket
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Originally posted by Cooter View PostI have a set with fresh 2014 Michelin take-offs
I also have a set of 08-10 King Ranch wheels
(And a set of Platinums and a couple sets of Harleys, but I digress)
LMK2007 Silverado CC
1970 Mustang Coupe
True Street Motorsports. 972-542-9886
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Originally posted by aggie97 View PostLink to details on head stud swap? What caused the head gasket pop at such low mileage? I may do that to mine. It's already deleted with the smarty jr. on the 30hp tune but I want more after I get a new clutch in it.
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Originally posted by JV106 View PostI have the smarty jr and it was turned up on all levels. Popping the head gasket is very common on deleted 6.7's. You'll start smelling coolant as it's pushed out of the reservoir. Mine never overheated. Cummins forum search 6.7 studs you'll find as much as you care to read. Carbonitecummins.com had the dealers full service manual for free at one time. Good luck and Gig em Aggie '07.
you think that's just some arbitrary adjustment?
Matt, set it on the 60hp level, default timing, and let it eat. I know tons of guys who hot shot and stay loaded down constantly... 300-400k+ on that tune with zero head gasket issues.
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