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Having trouble finding and adapter to 'T' a pressure switch into existing brake setup

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  • Having trouble finding and adapter to 'T' a pressure switch into existing brake setup

    Here is my distribtion block:


    The brake line fittings use a 7/16th wrench to remove (not sure about the thread pitch, it is very close to 1/8th pipe but no dice). I went to Lowes/HD and bought fittings but nothing seems to work.

    Does anyone sell a T- junction that goes from whatever thread pitch these fittings are with a 1/8th pipe fitting for my Painless pressure switch?

    I figure the easiest way to do this is just put a T-in right at the output of the dist. block and have it screw into to the dist. block, have the brake line that screwed in to the dist. block screw into the T and then have the pressure switch also screw into the T.

    Thanks!

  • #2
    Did some digging.

    I believe (from my research) that these fittings are going to be 3/8th-24 SAE or -3AN. Can any verify?

    Also, if that is correct, anyone know where I can find a T that will accept 3/8th going in and out with a 1/8NPT for the pressure switch?

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    • #3
      They are known as "INVERTED FLARE".

      Usually, they can be found by the diameter/thread pitch and calling them inverted flare. That's the same thread that a transmission fitting uses.. (just different diameter)

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      • #4
        So something like this should probably work in conjunction with my 1/8th in NPT Tee that I currently have. I'd also have to make a short line to connect the tee with the distribution block unless someone knows of a 3/16th inverted flare to 3/16th inverted flare coupler (male to male).

        Last edited by dville_gt; 01-31-2011, 12:05 PM.

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        • #5
          or instead of the short line maybe i could find one of these somewhere (3/16th flare to 1/4mpt)




          EDIT, okay, I am smoking crack, they all seem to be listed as 3/16th, not 3/8th. Not sure where I was getting that.

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          • #6
            why not just drill and tap that block?

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            • #7
              Originally posted by turbostang View Post
              why not just drill and tap that block?
              Not a bad idea, if you look in between the two inlets there is an open port, there was some type of switch that screwed in there. I was planning to use that location until I found that it does not see any pressure there. Not sure what the purpose of that port is actually.

              Where would you tap it? It will be REAL close to the header if I tape it between the front brake inlet and the outlets (on the flat area between them pointing it out towards the motor. The only other place I could think of would be on the rear brake side, but when I pulled the plug on that end it had a long tube looking thing that connected to the fitting on the end there. Not sure what that is, but seems like I would have an issue with that as well.

              Any ideas? Taping into the block would be the best option, but I just cant seem to figure out where.

              (side rant: damn aerospace for not including some type of provision, as if most people are not going to expect brake lights!)

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              • #8
                Why not use an avail port on the line lock?
                Ring and pinion specialist

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by dville_gt View Post
                  Not a bad idea, if you look in between the two inlets there is an open port, there was some type of switch that screwed in there. I was planning to use that location until I found that it does not see any pressure there. Not sure what the purpose of that port is actually.

                  Where would you tap it? It will be REAL close to the header if I tape it between the front brake inlet and the outlets (on the flat area between them pointing it out towards the motor. The only other place I could think of would be on the rear brake side, but when I pulled the plug on that end it had a long tube looking thing that connected to the fitting on the end there. Not sure what that is, but seems like I would have an issue with that as well.

                  Any ideas? Taping into the block would be the best option, but I just cant seem to figure out where.

                  (side rant: damn aerospace for not including some type of provision, as if most people are not going to expect brake lights!)
                  If the threads match, just drill a VERY small hole through the center of the bore till it intersects the part where the fluid does flow.

                  If the threads are wrong, maybe drill it oversized to the next size (1/4NPT?) and put a bushing in it. (if it will fit)

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by greenbullitt View Post
                    Why not use an avail port on the line lock?
                    I didn't see where he said he even had one, but if it does - obviously that would work.

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                    • #11
                      No line lock as of yet, although maybe this might be a good reason to make that purchase. The thread on that port seems to be inverted flare as well (the switch is just barely too big to catch a thread). If I went up and had to use a bushing there it'd be too tall and would hit the line above it. Jeez, nothing is ever simple! You think a 1/8th not tap could get enough meat in a 3/16th inverted flare hole? Probably not sice they are so close.

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                      • #12
                        Adding a line lock would really complicate this whole thing as far as plumbing is concerned, but a good investment I think.


                        I doubt you could just thread that hole, I'd measure the minor diameter and see what it is compared to the 1/8NPT tap drill for starters. That will answer all your questions. Just remember that when you run that NPT tap in there - that you only go to about 4 threads from the top.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by dville_gt View Post
                          No line lock as of yet, although maybe this might be a good reason to make that purchase. The thread on that port seems to be inverted flare as well (the switch is just barely too big to catch a thread). If I went up and had to use a bushing there it'd be too tall and would hit the line above it. Jeez, nothing is ever simple! You think a 1/8th not tap could get enough meat in a 3/16th inverted flare hole? Probably not sice they are so close.
                          Sorry, i swore i had seen one in your build
                          Ring and pinion specialist

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                          • #14
                            Do all of the line lock kits have an extra npt port?

                            Looking at the jegs kit for $60 that comes w/lines and fittings.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by dville_gt View Post
                              do all of the line lock kits have an extra npt port?

                              Looking at the jegs kit for $60 that comes w/lines and fittings.
                              link?

                              I know the hurst and summit do...
                              Ring and pinion specialist

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