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Looking for ways to fix up my 24 year old, 20' flatbed trailer

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  • Looking for ways to fix up my 24 year old, 20' flatbed trailer

    I bought this trailer for $1500 in 1990. I've definitely gotten my money's worth out of it, but I am currently looking for ways to fix it up. A buddy of mine recently borrowed it and ended up overloading it and bent the axles. I had all new axles, springs, hardware, etc. installed recently. My buddy said get him a list of things I want done to it and he said he would do it. (ie- floor, paint, weld, etc)

    What are some upgrades I can have him do? What is the best type of wood to replace the flooring with? What size safety chains are adequate for 7,000 lb of towing? I was thinking of having him find a place to either store the ramps or mount the ramps permanently on the rear end of the trailer. Would you permanently affix them to the rear of the trailer and have them fold over or weld carriers under the rear frame for storage? Just looking for ideas since he asked.

    My short list was:
    • paint
    • new flooring
    • permanent mount jack closer to tongue
    • permanent mount spare tire carrier on front of trailer
    • update lighting
    • update (heavier duty) safety chains
    • new fenders
    • find a permanent solution for ramps







  • #2
    I like rear slide in ramps. I've got a equipment hauler with heavy spring assist ramps attached to back. I have to take them off all the time so I can haul things over 18 feet.

    LED lighting.

    Extra capacity jack with a floorplate.

    Wish I had a picture. I replace the flooring with diamond plate steel on one of mine. I cut the 4x8 sheets in half and ran wood in between and one 2x6 on the outermost edge. I did this after a 5k capacity forklift fell through the wood floor I thought was still in great shape. I ran 4 rows of 1.5" square tubing for the diamond plate to rest on. I had around $600 in redoing the floor, but I won't do it again for a long time.

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    • #3
      great info, thanks.

      Did the steel flooring add a lot of weight to the trailer itself?

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      • #4
        I would think the steel is not much different than oak 2x wood. If the ramps are long you may have to put them on the sides and stagger them. LED lights last forever on a trailer. You could add D-rings to the perimeter and if you go steel D-ring cups in the floor. Then have it sandblasted and painted.

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        • #5
          It added around 200# over wood, but worth it to me.
          Last edited by dblack1; 03-30-2014, 08:34 PM.

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          • #6
            Another reason for a ramp/gate that can be stowed away is for loading with a forklift. Makes life easier for them at the places that would load the trailer.

            Add in additional tie down locations on the deck
            Add in fence/expanded metal in those gaps on the side. That way you don't have to worry about things sliding around. Leave some gaps at the top for straps...etc
            Relocated that spare to the front out of the way - but not in the trailer
            Originally posted by MR EDD
            U defend him who use's racial slurs like hes drinking water.

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            • #7
              Another reason for a ramp/gate that can be stowed away is for loading with a forklift. Makes life easier for them at the places that would load the trailer.

              Add in additional tie down locations on the deck
              Add in fence/expanded metal in those gaps on the side. That way you don't have to worry about things sliding around. Leave some gaps at the top for straps...etc
              Relocated that spare to the front out of the way - but not in the trailer
              Originally posted by MR EDD
              U defend him who use's racial slurs like hes drinking water.

              Comment


              • #8
                I rent one from Flatrock on 35 and it has an aluminum floor that came from bleachers. It's tough and lite.

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                • #9
                  Do you haul a car on it much? Can you open the door with the car on it? Might consider raising the deck up higher and leaving it angled at the back as a makeshift dove tail. I have a car hauler without the rails and use a long 2"x10" wide board under each set of wheels to lift the car up a little more to have extra clearance on the doors and the headers over the dove tail when loading.

                  When I used my dad's utility trailer to haul the car, I made some runners of the same 2"x10" boards and just use 4"x4"x10" pieces of board every 1.5' to raise the runners and get the car above the side rails.

                  As others have mentioned, LED lights are nice and last forever and my guess would be put less stress on your trucks electrical wiring since they don't use as much energy. Add some extra lights on the front and back corners of the fenders so you can see the outside edges of the trailer easier when driving at night and other people can see it easier from behind. I like a well lit up trailer myself. Loading lights for night time could help.
                  Carl S.
                  2014 Ruby Red Premium GT A6, stock for now
                  80 Coupe, Stroked 9.2" Windsor, Yates C3, Dominator, glide, 9.60s n/a, 1.27 sixty 5.48@127.8 nitrous on radials.
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