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  • Chassis guys, need advice.

    As I am sure, most of you are familiar with my project. It is a mustang coupe w/ls swap and eventual plans for some decent hp via turbo.

    The car is pretty well setup, has 10 point cage, everything is tubular (k member, a-arms, upper and lowers, etc.), welded up 8.8 w/33 splines, blah blah blah.

    What the car does not have (I didn't build the roller, don't ask me how these got over looked).

    1- Subframe connectors
    2- Lower control arm reinforcement
    3- Upper control arm reinforcement
    4- Rear sway bar (anti-roll bar).

    Here are my questions:

    1- Since I already have a cage in the car I am afraid that doing through the floor subframes is going to be a major PITA if it is even possible with out hacking on the cage (which I dont want to do since it is already painted) and removing all of the interior. Should I be concerned about using standard weld-on subframes vs. through the floors, will the big cage offer any extra reinforcement to make up the difference? If the standard sfc's are okay any recommendation (summit has some they sell CHEAP).

    2- I see you can get the pre-fabbed "battle boxes" for about 80 bucks, they look pretty simple to make (would be a lot more simple if someone has some I could use for measurements). This is a must for a car like this, right? Can't believe they are not already done

    3- Upper control arm reinforcement looks like you just weld the hell out of all the mounting locations, a standard MIG welder would be okay I assume. Anything I should know, does the rear-end have to come completely out or can you just remove the uppers and get in there as best you can?

    4- The anti-roll bar kits are pretty pricey, not sure I'll need one right off the bat with a massive 400hp or so, but I've never setup a car that had no sway bar/anti-roll bar of any kind. What will this do to the street manners and launching ability. Is this a must right off the bat?


    Thanks!

  • #2
    I don't think you can do the TTFSFC's "correctly" with a pre-existing cage - the effort would be WAY too much to consider for me. I'd be more inclined to "start over" and do it "right".

    Having said that, you can add regular weld on SFC's and tie into the cage to maximize your effort - that's what I'd do if cutting the cage out and redoing it is not an option.

    To me, it all depends on the overall quality of the cage, welds, etc.

    Anti-Roll bar? Hell yes. DO IT! This is a video of MY car with "only" 540RWHP and running 6.20's. It only 60'd 1.4x, but, with no ARB, it suffered ALL the way down the track and you constantly had to fight hooking up problems. (listen to it spin- most likely because of unloading one tire)

    EDIT - Yes, the rear end has to be out of the car to weld the torque boxes complete and CORRECT. Weld EVERY joint in them, back in the corners, EVERYWHERE!!



    Note - Clifton's car, pumpkin head - (RIP), completely flat launch.



    or Tony's capri...

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by turbostang View Post
      I don't think you can do the TTFSFC's "correctly" with a pre-existing cage - the effort would be WAY too much to consider for me. I'd be more inclined to "start over" and do it "right".

      Having said that, you can add regular weld on SFC's and tie into the cage to maximize your effort - that's what I'd do if cutting the cage out and redoing it is not an option.

      To me, it all depends on the overall quality of the cage, welds, etc.

      Anti-Roll bar? Hell yes. DO IT! This is a video of MY car with "only" 540RWHP and running 6.20's. It only 60'd 1.4x, but, with no ARB, it suffered ALL the way down the track and you constantly had to fight hooking up problems. (listen to it spin- most likely because of unloading one tire)

      EDIT - Yes, the rear end has to be out of the car to weld the torque boxes complete and CORRECT. Weld EVERY joint in them, back in the corners, EVERYWHERE!!
      Ya, hacking up the cage at this point would be something I'm not really interested in doing. You think it would be okay to just use a full length sub frame like the UPR @ $129?

      UPR's Full length subframe connectors are the strongest and best engineered design available from their Ultra strong cross braces to UPR's Pro-Series Torque Box reinforcement plate kit.


      As far as anti-roll bar kits, obviously some of them are $800+, seems pretty high rent, UPR has a "basic" setup for $250, and input on it?

      79-04 Mustang Pro-Series ™ Chrome Moly Anti Roll Bar Kit (2000-01). Our Anti Roll Bar features roller bearings and solid 1 1/4" bar to ensure the smoothest reacting kit available! Fully welded in a Billet Steel Fixture for a perfect fit. Does not work with stock tailpipes. Anti-roll bar is designed for drag race use only. Links must be disconnected while driving on street to prevent damage.

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      • #4
        Brooks how much does your car weigh???

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by dville_gt View Post
          Ya, hacking up the cage at this point would be something I'm not really interested in doing. You think it would be okay to just use a full length sub frame like the UPR @ $129?

          UPR's Full length subframe connectors are the strongest and best engineered design available from their Ultra strong cross braces to UPR's Pro-Series Torque Box reinforcement plate kit.


          As far as anti-roll bar kits, obviously some of them are $800+, seems pretty high rent, UPR has a "basic" setup for $250, and input on it?

          http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-c...l-bar-kit.html
          Wolfe has a good one..its a little more than UPR

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by 83coupe View Post
            Wolfe has a good one..its a little more than UPR
            worth another $120 (or some full length sfc's )?

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by dville_gt View Post
              worth another $120 (or some full length sfc's )?
              My car seems to like them..

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by dville_gt View Post
                worth another $120 (or some full length sfc's )?
                Go with the full lengths!
                sigpic

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by WildBill View Post
                  Go with the full lengths!
                  Sup Old Man?....

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by 83coupe View Post
                    Sup Old Man?....
                    Price of damn diesel!!!!!!!!!!
                    sigpic

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Maximum motorsports has some nice full length that will be ok for your setup. Antiroll bar is a must
                      JamesB Chassis is looking for a fabricator/general shop help, call or PM for info.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        One more thing, I have cut several of the cheaper antiroll bars out. I would buy the Wolfe and be done with it. The cheap ones tend to bend with a heavy car.
                        JamesB Chassis is looking for a fabricator/general shop help, call or PM for info.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by JamesB View Post
                          One more thing, I have cut several of the cheaper antiroll bars out. I would buy the Wolfe and be done with it. The cheap ones tend to bend with a heavy car.
                          I agree with James

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                          • #14
                            Am I wrong to assume that any of the anti-roll bars will break if you do not disconnect them before street driving? Kinda sucks for this car since I plan to take it out on weekends.

                            From what I have read this seems to be the case, especially off angle uphill situations (like my driveway )

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I drove my car on the street for years with no problems. You have to judge/enter the driveways at extreme angles to keep from tearing the ARB up.

                              Either dead straight in, or extreme angles. nothing in between.

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