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Phu@&ing IMRC

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  • Phu@&ing IMRC

    Well, its inspection time and the trouble code that has been tripping the Check Engine Light off and on all for the past few months has officially become a pain in the ass as I am told I will fail inspection until it is fixed.

    Vehicle: 2001 Ford Ranger 2.3L 4 cylinder

    The code seems to relate to the IMRC and after research there could be 3 culprits:

    1. Vacuum leak to\from the IMRC valve\sensor
    2. The IMRC valve\sensor itself
    3. The IMRC itself inside the intake

    I am going to delve into it this weekend, but assuming I get the vacuum lines checked\replaced and the valve checked\replaced I have one question.

    How quickly will the code clear once done?

    If I disconnect the battery, it takes about 50 miles before the sensor even becomes "ready" and I don't want to wait that long to see if the issue is resolved.

    If I just clear the codes with a scanner and if it doesn't come back within a few miles of driving can I declare victory?

  • #2
    it takes 50 miles after clearing the codes either way. It's common for them to get gummed up, pull the actuator and try to turn the butterflies. If they are smooth, you know it is something else.
    "If I asked people what they wanted, they would have said faster horses." - Henry Ford

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    • #3
      If they are gummed up, is there anything short of pulling the intake to get it working "normally"?

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      • #4
        you can try upper intake cleaner, like seafoam or better.
        "If I asked people what they wanted, they would have said faster horses." - Henry Ford

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Baron Von Crowder View Post
          it takes 50 miles after clearing the codes either way. It's common for them to get gummed up, pull the actuator and try to turn the butterflies. If they are smooth, you know it is something else.
          It's not always 50 miles. Google the list of steps. The hardest are going from 60-0 without using your brakes, and other steps like this. I've got my wife's old Mountaineer to reset in ~ 25 miles. The list helps a great deal.
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          • #6
            Basically you have to get all the readiness monitors to run after a code clear whether it's from using a scan tool or a battery reset. The drive cycle info will help you to better allow all the monitors to run in order to help pass inspection. They do this to keep you from clearing your codes just before pulling into the inspection station. As Baron stated, remove the actuator and feel for the IMRC to move smoothly.

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            • #7
              OK, Update (still not fixed)

              After checking the hoses from the intake, through the IMRC runner control to the IMRC "actuator", the hoses were cracked and leaking... so I thought "AHA!"

              Replaced all the hoses and verified I've got good vacuum from the intake.

              Code still stays.

              By the design it looks as if the IMRC control receives a voltage from the main computer above 3000 rpm to open up vacuum to the actuator.

              So I hook up a vacuum gauge to the "out" side of the IMRC controller.

              Turn the key to the "on" position and I see vacuum coming from the control module.

              As soon as I start the truck the vacuum goes away.

              I give it some gas to go over 3k RPM and still no vacuum.

              I put the $100 new IMRC control on and replace the hoses, hook up the gauge.

              Turn the key to the "on" position and I see vacuum coming from the control module.

              As soon as I start the truck the vacuum goes away.

              I give it some gas to go over 3k RPM and still no vacuum.

              So in other words, no change, light still on.

              Disconnect the battery thinking it may be a computer that needs to be reset.

              Still no vacuum at 3k RPM.

              Does it need to be at 3k RPM for a certain amount of time?

              Does it need to be in gear?

              Anyone have any ideas at this point?
              Last edited by Gargamel; 03-01-2014, 05:16 PM.

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              • #8
                i would think it might have to be under a load but dont quote me on that as im not at work and cant see how its suppose to work

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                • #9
                  My assumption is that if it had vacuum KOEO and no vacuum KOER, is that the computer has the ability to tell the control module to work and the module is doing it's job. It very well may need to be under load in order to function, like in gear and driving. I would test it driving and see if it functions correctly or applies vacuum. If you have a scantool capable of running a KOER test it may test the system as well.

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                  • #10
                    I've gone ahead and cleared the code and buttoned everything up.

                    We'll see if it comes back over the weekend.

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                    • #11
                      All good.

                      Inspected today.

                      Thanks All!!!

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