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  • ? about Ingersol Compressors at Tractor supply

    Has anyone bought one of these? I'm looking at the 80 Gallon 5hp 2 stg for our shop and they are only $1099 and I have a 10% coupon right now.

    So, does it need a magnetic starter?

    Why is the same compressor at lowes for over $2200?

    Are they durable?

    Thoughts on the aluminum tank?

    This won't be used 24/7 but basically a weekend shop to run assorted air tools and a tire machine.

    I am going to go look at it more closely today but unsure about pulling the trigger yet given the MUCH cheaper price and the fact I see these returned at Lowes all the time.

    Thoughts?

  • #2
    checkout Puma compressors if you are going to spend the money.

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    • #3
      I bought one about like that from Sam's about 15 years ago. Never has missed a beat in all that time. The only problem is the lower CFM it produces. It handles everything well except an air buffer. It works OK, but runs all the time while you are buffing. Be sure you have enough CFM for a buffer. I think mine is a 12 CFM at 90 PSI. Alittle more would allow the compressor to cycle as it should. You just have to let it cycle some by stopping the buffer from time to time. It works great on impact wrenches, paint guns and smaller air tools.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by FastFox View Post
        I bought one about like that from Sam's about 15 years ago. Never has missed a beat in all that time. The only problem is the lower CFM it produces. It handles everything well except an air buffer. It works OK, but runs all the time while you are buffing. Be sure you have enough CFM for a buffer. I think mine is a 12 CFM at 90 PSI. Alittle more would allow the compressor to cycle as it should. You just have to let it cycle some by stopping the buffer from time to time. It works great on impact wrenches, paint guns and smaller air tools.
        Thanks. This is mostly going to be ratchets, impact guns and such. One person at a time and maybe an air sander if doing limited body work. Biggest issue for me now is noise and the "buzz bomb" I have runs constantly just running the air can in the tire machine. I want to get a single unit and put it in a cabinet and run lines through the shop to each work station as well as a water separator and auto oiler. Finally getting settled into the new shop and doing a lot of suspension work and I want my air tools again!

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        • #5
          I have a 5 horse I/R compressor without the magnetic starter TS5 I believe is the model. the magnetic starter might make it a little easier starting and not dimming the lights in the house as much on start up. Mine make about 15 cfm at 90 psi. mine is home use but use it with sanders, blast cabinets, paint guns etc. and has been excellent. I installed a 90 degree fitting on the bottom with a length of 1/4 " threaded pipe and a ball valve on the end to facilitate tank draining and also installed a 1/4 " nipple with a ball valve on the oil drain plug to keep the oil from draining all over the place with doing maintenance.

          Bill

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          • #6
            Originally posted by bonfire View Post
            I have a 5 horse I/R compressor without the magnetic starter TS5 I believe is the model. the magnetic starter might make it a little easier starting and not dimming the lights in the house as much on start up. Mine make about 15 cfm at 90 psi. mine is home use but use it with sanders, blast cabinets, paint guns etc. and has been excellent. I installed a 90 degree fitting on the bottom with a length of 1/4 " threaded pipe and a ball valve on the end to facilitate tank draining and also installed a 1/4 " nipple with a ball valve on the oil drain plug to keep the oil from draining all over the place with doing maintenance.

            Bill
            Thanks for the info and ideas on the drains!

            Looked at the PUMA brand at Northern tool and saw a couple Quincy models. We use their rotaries at USPS for equipment and have good luck. Not sure if their lower end models are any good. PUMA did look like a good buy as well.

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            • #7
              I bought my Curtis from Marcus and Son in northside FTW. It's a beast! You should check them out since they are a locally family owned business. The owner also honored a cheaper internet price. They have other brands like IR too.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by bonfire View Post
                I have a 5 horse I/R compressor without the magnetic starter TS5 I believe is the model. the magnetic starter might make it a little easier starting and not dimming the lights in the house as much on start up. Mine make about 15 cfm at 90 psi. mine is home use but use it with sanders, blast cabinets, paint guns etc. and has been excellent. I installed a 90 degree fitting on the bottom with a length of 1/4 " threaded pipe and a ball valve on the end to facilitate tank draining and also installed a 1/4 " nipple with a ball valve on the oil drain plug to keep the oil from draining all over the place with doing maintenance.

                Bill
                Can you elaborate a bit on the drain mod? I just have a cheaper Craftsman 26 Gal and I hate having to lay it down in order to empty it from the valve at the bottom.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by HenryJ View Post
                  I bought my Curtis from Marcus and Son in northside FTW. It's a beast! You should check them out since they are a locally family owned business. The owner also honored a cheaper internet price. They have other brands like IR too.

                  http://www.marcusecompressor.com/cur...lenge_air.html
                  Sadly, I am not in the DFW area. Closest metro is Houston and F that.

                  I am going to look around locally to see if any of the local welding shops know of a dealer in town and then check for locals. I like supporting the local guys but if there aren't any, I either move to a bigger town or bring the bigger town to me!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Chili View Post
                    Can you elaborate a bit on the drain mod? I just have a cheaper Craftsman 26 Gal and I hate having to lay it down in order to empty it from the valve at the bottom.

                    Sure

                    all part were home depot special. mine had a 1/4' threaded hole on bottom of the tank. I threaded in a 90 degree fittin in that hole bought a 12" piece of threaded 1/4 galvanized pipe.....just long engouh to sitck out of the base of the compressor and then a 1/4' ball valve on the end of that. turn the valve and the water drains out into a old plastic pitcher i used in the garage

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                    • #11
                      Not that anyone asked but thought I'd add. I have mine plumbed into about 25 feet of 3/4" copper line with a down leg at the end of that. About half way down the down leg I put in a T to attach separator, filter, regulator. There is a drain valve at the dottom of the down leg too. Important. I connect the compressor to the copper tubing with a 3' long braided flex hose. Compressor sits on pieces of 2x4 wood. Air tools run nice and dry and most of the water is collected in the drain legs....rarely any water in the separator. Attaching the filter/separator and regulator directly to the oputput of the tank is almost useless. The air is too hot and still holding too much moitsure.

                      There is a little more to my system but thats the basics

                      Bill

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by aggie97 View Post
                        Thanks for the info and ideas on the drains!

                        Looked at the PUMA brand at Northern tool and saw a couple Quincy models. We use their rotaries at USPS for equipment and have good luck. Not sure if their lower end models are any good. PUMA did look like a good buy as well.
                        I honestly dont remember what was such a big deal about the Puma but I believe IR went to China and their quality has gone down hill over the last few years. I would also read up over on garagejournal forum and see what they recommend.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Chili View Post
                          I just have a cheaper Craftsman 26 Gal and I hate having to lay it down in order to empty it from the valve at the bottom.
                          Thread a Midland 12105 truck air tank drain valve in to the bottom of it. Problem solved. It has a lanyard attached that you just pull when you want to drain the liquid left in the tank. Mine works flawlessly.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Tyrone Biggums View Post
                            Thread a Midland 12105 truck air tank drain valve in to the bottom of it. Problem solved. It has a lanyard attached that you just pull when you want to drain the liquid left in the tank. Mine works flawlessly.
                            Awesome!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Tyrone Biggums View Post
                              Thread a Midland 12105 truck air tank drain valve in to the bottom of it. Problem solved. It has a lanyard attached that you just pull when you want to drain the liquid left in the tank. Mine works flawlessly.
                              This is what I've done as well, super easy.

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