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2000 Mustang Front end shaking, shimmey, shake etc

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  • #1

    2000 Mustang Front end shaking, shimmey, shake etc

    Started just a while ago, was nominal at first but has steadily gotten worse. The front end seems to shake, shimmey, what ever you want to call it. From 0 to 60, hardly noticeable. Up past 70, noticeable but still drivable. (I'm not going over 80 at this point!) It gets worse in a right hand turn, and even worse when the brakes are slightly applied in a right hander. However, no shake in a straight line brake, even a nominal emergency stop test. Left hand turns it is there, but not really noticeable. I do have coil overs but I've had those for over a decade and haven't had a problem. The a-arms are MM and were replaced about 4 years ago +/-, with MM a-arms.

    Any ideas? I MIGHT be able to get a shitty phone video but I doubt it helps.
    Originally posted by Taya Kyle, American Gun
    There comes a time when honest debate, serious diplomatic efforts, and logical arguments have been exhausted and only men and women willing to take up arms against evil will suffice to save the freedom of a nation or continent.
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  • #2
    Balljoints would be my starting place.

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    • #3
      Damn.. That's what I was thinking too. Grease bag is torn.... So replace the ball joints or entire A-Arms?
      Originally posted by Taya Kyle, American Gun
      There comes a time when honest debate, serious diplomatic efforts, and logical arguments have been exhausted and only men and women willing to take up arms against evil will suffice to save the freedom of a nation or continent.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Darren M View Post
        Damn.. That's what I was thinking too. Grease bag is torn.... So replace the ball joints or entire A-Arms?

        Pretty sure that you have to change the whole A arm on it. If not, just press some new ones in.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by JC316 View Post
          Pretty sure that you have to change the whole A arm on it. If not, just press some new ones in.
          Press in new ones. Make sure your wheel hubs arent bad very common on those

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          • #6
            Thanks guys. Just got out from underneath the thing and the damn ball joint nut was loose!!! Tightened it at least 2 turns. Will run it in the morning and see what happens. MM doesn't use castle nuts!!!!! WTF?!?
            Originally posted by Taya Kyle, American Gun
            There comes a time when honest debate, serious diplomatic efforts, and logical arguments have been exhausted and only men and women willing to take up arms against evil will suffice to save the freedom of a nation or continent.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Whiteboy View Post
              Press in new ones. Make sure your wheel hubs arent bad very common on those
              Must be the T-birds that I'm thinking of with non replaceable joints. Wheel hubs would be my next step if the ball joints are ok.

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              • #8
                Is it a GT?

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                • #9
                  Yeah, GT. Maximum Motorsport a arms though. Still not sure if their ball joints are replaceable.
                  Originally posted by Taya Kyle, American Gun
                  There comes a time when honest debate, serious diplomatic efforts, and logical arguments have been exhausted and only men and women willing to take up arms against evil will suffice to save the freedom of a nation or continent.

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Darren M View Post
                    Yeah, GT. Maximum Motorsport a arms though. Still not sure if their ball joints are replaceable.
                    yes they are and they will cut you a deal on them....if you consider a deal to be $60 ea. They are the same factory "low friction" ball joints.

                    I was about to replace mine and decided on the Steeda X2's.....should be installing them this weekend if all goes well.

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                    • #11
                      I'll wait to hear how the Steedas work for you. I DO NOT like a missing cotter pin/castle nut assembly.
                      Originally posted by Taya Kyle, American Gun
                      There comes a time when honest debate, serious diplomatic efforts, and logical arguments have been exhausted and only men and women willing to take up arms against evil will suffice to save the freedom of a nation or continent.

                      Comment

                      • #12
                        I run the steeda x2 ball joints, no issues whatsoever. Much improved over stock.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Darren M View Post
                          I'll wait to hear how the Steedas work for you. I DO NOT like a missing cotter pin/castle nut assembly.
                          most use nylock nuts these days. You could probably find a deformed lock not or put a lock washer under the nut too. I agree, the castle nut with cotter pin is ideal, however, not totally necessary.

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                          • #14
                            Meh, just tack weld it until you find what replacements you want.
                            "If I asked people what they wanted, they would have said faster horses." - Henry Ford

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                            • #15
                              Steeda x2 pressed right into the mm control arms. Worked great.

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