Anyone know of a Dodge diesel forum in dallas that I may can find a 12v cummins longblock and auto trans for sale?
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best course of action IMO is to just buy a donor truck... that way you can test the operation of the engine/trans
you can buy a haggard looking truck for $2500-3000 and know what you're getting vs. paying $2500 for a motor/trans sitting on the ground and having no idea as to how it's going to run
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Originally posted by Cooter View Postbest course of action IMO is to just buy a donor truck... that way you can test the operation of the engine/trans
you can buy a haggard looking truck for $2500-3000 and know what you're getting vs. paying $2500 for a motor/trans sitting on the ground and having no idea as to how it's going to run
also what years would be best to look for?2004 TR Mustang Mach 1 RIP
2003 DSG Mustang Mach 1
2014 Race Red Shelby GT500
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you're not going to make a mint parting out the rest, but parts is parts... they're worth something to somebody
'94-98 had the best engine and pump
96-97 had the best engine (lower top ring land) and pump (more aggressive pump cam) out of the 94-98
97-98 had the 47RE trans, 94-96 had the 47RH. The RH requires less electronic input, but I believe you'll still need a PCM to take care of OD and converter lockup. You could put both on simple switches and completely bypass the need for the PCM.
BUT, if you're dealing with a donor truck, you'll obviously have everything you need to make it run right.
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Originally posted by Cooter View Postyou're not going to make a mint parting out the rest, but parts is parts... they're worth something to somebody
'94-98 had the best engine and pump
96-97 had the best engine (lower top ring land) and pump (more aggressive pump cam) out of the 94-98
97-98 had the 47RE trans, 94-96 had the 47RH. The RH requires less electronic input, but I believe you'll still need a PCM to take care of OD and converter lockup. You could put both on simple switches and completely bypass the need for the PCM.
BUT, if you're dealing with a donor truck, you'll obviously have everything you need to make it run right.
This will be going in my Ford C-550 COE to replace the weak lincoln y block engine2004 TR Mustang Mach 1 RIP
2003 DSG Mustang Mach 1
2014 Race Red Shelby GT500
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I think I flubbed the year break on the RE vs. RH... 96-98 had the RE, 94-95 had the RH
the bottom end is good for 700rwhp without much worry... too much bottom end will smoosh the rods. If you don't try to make ungodly power below 2500rpm, guys have made 900+ on stock rods
I would have to put a wiggle stick behind it though so it'll make the right noises in that COE
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Originally posted by Cooter View PostI think I flubbed the year break on the RE vs. RH... 96-98 had the RE, 94-95 had the RH
the bottom end is good for 700rwhp without much worry... too much bottom end will smoosh the rods. If you don't try to make ungodly power below 2500rpm, guys have made 900+ on stock rods
I would have to put a wiggle stick behind it though so it'll make the right noises in that COE2004 TR Mustang Mach 1 RIP
2003 DSG Mustang Mach 1
2014 Race Red Shelby GT500
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adapt a hydraulic pedal and you're in business
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Originally posted by Cooter View Postadapt a hydraulic pedal and you're in business2004 TR Mustang Mach 1 RIP
2003 DSG Mustang Mach 1
2014 Race Red Shelby GT500
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ahh, that's sensible as the trans is probably 3ft behind you!
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Originally posted by Cooter View Postahh, that's sensible as the trans is probably 3ft behind you!2004 TR Mustang Mach 1 RIP
2003 DSG Mustang Mach 1
2014 Race Red Shelby GT500
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