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Running fuel lines before sub-frame connectors are installed, any tips? (pics inside)

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  • Running fuel lines before sub-frame connectors are installed, any tips? (pics inside)

    So I am running the fuel lines in the ls-coupe. I ran the lines then it occured to me that the car does not have sub-frame connectors and that these lines will probably get in the way once I get the sub-frames put in (I know I should go ahead and get the connectors put in before I run the line, but I really don't want to tow the car up to a shop and back when it is pretty close to being able to run on it's own power as it is.)

    With all that said this is how I currently have the lines ran (I have not cut the line down yet so I can still rearrange it however I'd like, I'd just have to move the clamps). Any tips on how I could arrange them to make for an easy installation of the sub-frame connectors (I guess I could just leave enough slack that they would be able to go over the sub-frame connectors at a later date).

    Here the lines are coming down the outside of the front subframe:

    Here the lines are crossing over the "void" area between the inside of the rear subframe to the outside of the front subframe:

    Here the lines are on the inside of the rear subframe making there way up and over the rear end:

    Here you can see that the return goes straight up over the rear end to a bulkhead through the trunk floor and the feed continues on to the outlet filter on the pump:

    Here you can see the feed coming from over the rear end to the outlet filter on the pump:

  • #2
    Is that the Parker Pushlok? How easy was it to work with? Any potential crimped areas? I've got access to some of that stuff for free and am weighing it vs. stainless braided.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Doug Hatton View Post
      Is that the Parker Pushlok? How easy was it to work with? Any potential crimped areas? I've got access to some of that stuff for free and am weighing it vs. stainless braided.
      i cannot say enough about this hose (it's actually summits "twist-tite"), i am only doing very rear part of my system in stainless (they wouldn't sell me -12 in any length less then 10ft so i just bought 3 foot of stainless). the hose has no crimped places, runs very neatly, doesn't try to kink or bend, really a pleasure to deal with, and it is NHRA approved.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Doug Hatton View Post
        Is that the Parker Pushlok? How easy was it to work with? Any potential crimped areas? I've got access to some of that stuff for free and am weighing it vs. stainless braided.
        F stainless..... That shits aintient....
        and a PITA to work with
        sigpic

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        • #5
          I've got twist-tite under the hood of my 98 in 8 and 6an. It installs easily. I did run stainless braided from the tank to the engine compartment on pressure and return side .

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