351w and any F150/Lightning guys in here

[Baba Ganoush]

My pops has a '95 F150 with a 351w. He is the original owner, and it has hit 220k miles now. It's basically untouched, all factory, except some exhaust. The only major things we have replaced are the radiator and water pump. That's it. He has meticulously kept up on the general maintenance and it has never had an issue. It's never had any major work, and runs like a champ.

It has a pretty serious oil pan gasket and rear main seal leak, as well as a coolant leak that appears to be front cover. He is ready to tackle these problems, but he has since retired and it doesn't see the duty it used to. So he is thinking now is the time to rebuild it, and add some much needed horsepower. Where to start? I'm thinking......

Recondition the block, bore and hone, turn the crank, new pistons, rods, and all bearings. (would you stroke it?)
As for the top end, H/C/I, Edelbrock makes a package, but we are open to anything. We want to keep it EFI and not too aggressive of a cam, just something to get the most out of it. Gas mileage doesn't matter one bit, but drivability does. Fuel system modifications are ok if they're not too radical. So probably a new mass air and injectors. It still has the factory pumps (dual tank) so we have to take that into consideration. Of course some nice headers and an electric fan, as well as other much needed upgrades. It's an automatic and we'll probably go ahead and rebuild it, maybe with a different TC. I'm in the dark on the Lighnings of this generation but I'll start researching as this might be a good resource on the subject and a good place to start.

We might decide to just fix the leaks and maybe add a new oil pump and timing chain. It's just hard to stop there. Money is not an issue as this is his baby and he's ready to beef it up. It will always be in the family, so I figured I will give back to the man that gave me my passion for cars. Besides, it's in my inheritance, so I see it as a worthwhile investment, lol!


So I'm looking for guys that have put one of these together, or someone who can advise me on the limitations of the stock fuel system and some more choices on a good H/C/I setup, as well as just some general advice on how you would set it up. Would you stroke it? change the TC? Gears? Any info is appreciated.


Here's a pic from the first week after he brought it home and a pic from the other day at the lake.

[Diabolic]

My pops has a '95 F150 with a 351w. He is the original owner, and it has hit 220k miles now. It's basically untouched, all factory, except some exhaust. The only major things we have replaced are the radiator and water pump. That's it. He has meticulously kept up on the general maintenance and it has never had an issue. It's never had any major work, and runs like a champ.

It has a pretty serious oil pan gasket and rear main seal leak, as well as a coolant leak that appears to be front cover. He is ready to tackle these problems, but he has since retired and it doesn't see the duty it used to. So he is thinking now is the time to rebuild it, and add some much needed horsepower. Where to start? I'm thinking......

Recondition the block, bore and hone, turn the crank, new pistons, rods, and all bearings. (would you stroke it?)Make it a 408 if you decide to go that route.

As for the top end, H/C/I, Edelbrock makes a package, but we are open to anything. We want to keep it EFI and not too aggressive of a cam, just something to get the most out of it. Its Speed Density so the cam idea is out unless you stay under 220 duration and minimum od 114 LSA. There are a few cams out there like this but not all that common. The block is an F4TE roller block so you will need the 5.0 mustang dog bones, lifters, and spider to do a roller cam swap.
Gas mileage doesn't matter one bit, but drivability does. Fuel system modifications are ok if they're not too radical. So probably a new mass air and injectors. Are you sure it has Mass Air? 1995 Lightnings with a 351 did not have this. You are more than likely SD with 19# injectors. I had to resort to tuning my truck with a Quarter Horse and a wideband because no one would touch a Speed Density tune. I use an Innovate wideband to help as well. If I knew your Strategy, probably CBAZO, then I could buy a Staregy fiel and burn you a chip so that you can run bigger injectors, delete EGR, delete Airpump, raise the rev limiter, raise the speed limiter, delay the converter lockup, advance the timing, and recalibrate your VE tables after the heads and exhaust have been modified.It still has the factory pumps (dual tank) so we have to take that into consideration. If you need the extra fuel you can install a Hobbs switch or a manual toggle switch that will turn on both pumps at the same time. The stock pump will take you to 300 rwhp by itself. The two pump trick is used for poweradder applications. You can install a 190lph pump in the stock canister and get away with it, but a 255 will drain the canister dy and you will run out of fuel. Plus the high pressure pumps can cause cross flow where one pump dumps fuel into the other tank.
Of course some nice headers and an electric fan, as well as other much needed upgrades. Header choices are limited but I personally run MAC longtubes that are 1 5/8 with 2.5" ball collectors. They are for an 87-93 Fox Body with an AOD trans. Minimum frame notching may be required. It's super easy to do. Bassani makes some shorties, but I saw no gain in performance from stock Lightning headers.

It's an automatic and we'll probably go ahead and rebuild it, maybe with a different TC. Circle D, Hughs, Edge, and PI make the best converters for these trucks. Anything under $500 is junk so don't skimp here. You will def 100% want a Punisher valvebody for the E4OD tranny. I can't tell you how wonderful and easy this is to install and drive. I'm in the dark on the Lighnings of this generation but I'll start researching as this might be a good resource on the subject and a good place to start.

We might decide to just fix the leaks and maybe add a new oil pump and timing chain. It's just hard to stop there. Money is not an issue as this is his baby and he's ready to beef it up. It will always be in the family, so I figured I will give back to the man that gave me my passion for cars. Besides, it's in my inheritance, so I see it as a worthwhile investment, lol!


So I'm looking for guys that have put one of these together, or someone who can advise me on the limitations of the stock fuel system and some more choices on a good H/C/I setup, as well as just some general advice on how you would set it up. Would you stroke it? change the TC? Gears? Any info is appreciated.

The stock 2 tanks with an inline 255 can support 650 HP. I run AFR heads with a stock 5.0 HO camshaft out of an 87 mustang. I run the stock GT40 Intake, 70mm tb, Longtubes, 8:8.1 comp ratio, 1.6 RR's, stock stall converter, Punisher VB, and in regular non drag radials I have run a best of 8.7 at the Dale but usually run in the 8.8-8.9 range depending on traction. Idles like stock, but is super fun and reliable. I can tow anything I want without overheating the tranny. Peak power is at 4800rpm so it's super easy on parts. Give me some 1.7's, Circle D 2800 stall, drag radials and I bet I sould knock down some 8.5's while still idling stock and appearing stock under the hood.
Here's a pic from the first week after he brought it home and a pic from the other day at the lake.

Best of luck!

[Baba Ganoush]

Thanks for the info man!

Speed density?!? Are you shittin' me! I was not aware of this. I checked it out and sure enough it is. Well that changes everything. So what about a mass air conversion?

F4TE: so it's not currently a roller cam? I understand what you mean about the mustang valvetrain, just wondering if it's a flat tappet now.

So I'm grasping the duel pump setup: so it pumps fuel from an independent canister that is fed by the fuel tanks? So the toggle switch is the only option? You said you have a 255 in line pump, what is the rest of your setup? This will be an issue I will have to expound on. I might try to stay within the stock system capabilities but that isn't a solid plan.

It will probably never see a track, just street driving. But I want it to be on the edge, I'd like to get as close to 400hp as possible, if possible.

Thanks again for the info!

[Diabolic]

Thanks for the info man!

Speed density?!? Are you shittin' me! I was not aware of this. I checked it out and sure enough it is. Well that changes everything. So what about a mass air conversion? Mass air conversion is an option but about a $1000 option.F4TE: so it's not currently a roller cam? I understand what you mean about the mustang valvetrain, just wondering if it's a flat tappet now. Yes it's a flat tappet.

So I'm grasping the duel pump setup: so it pumps fuel from an independent canister that is fed by the fuel tanks? So the toggle switch is the only option? This will be an issue I will have to expound on. I might try to stay within the stock system capabilities but that isn't a solid plan. To run NA just put a 190 LPH pump in the tank(S). There is a canister inside each tank that the pump is nestled in. It keeps constant fuel to the pump since the tanks aren't baffled. It's a tight fit, but a 190 pump can be installed in place of the stock pump. The 2 pump trick is for power adder applications. Basically a switch is wired to a relay to supply the ground to the other tank at the fuel selector switch on the dash. The toggle switch completes the to the other tank and thus activates the second tank fuel pump. Therefore both pumps are running at the same time. It's like having a 255 pump. Then you can install an inline 255 along with a relay and a boost sensitve Hobbs switch set to complete the ground a 2 PSI of boost. Then you have 3 pumps all running at the same time. It will probably never see a track, just street driving. But I want it to be on the edge, I'd like to get as close to 400hp as possible, if possible.
400 will require a stroker with a SD friendly camshaft and some AFR 185's or larger. You could do it with a 351 and no stroker kit, but you will probably need more than AFR 185's like TF 205's or FAC 195's, a TFS "R" intake, and a custom camshaft from Ed Curtis, Buddy Rawls, Jay Allen, etc..........It will require extensive tuning to work well with SD. I would say a Custom comp cam with 212/220 duration, .555/.570 lift, and 114 LSA, 10.5 Comp ratio, and some Longtubes would get you there and still utilize the stock converter. It would put about 320 to the wheels and about 375-400rwtq. Figure 20% loss through that huge E4OD tranny.Thanks again for the info!

Costs money to make a brick fly!

[Baba Ganoush]

Costs money to make a brick fly!

Lol! I hear ya.

I'm digging the setup you stated. It sounds like it would get me where I want to be. I do have a massive budget for this truck, the sky is the limit. I'll have to chew on the maf conversion, it might be worth it for me.

Now I just need to identify the rear end. I know it's not posi, but I'm not sure what ratio. A full rebuild will be on the list.

[Diabolic]

If you want to upgrade the brakes on the cheap...................2004-2006 E150 spindles, rotors, and pads are a direct swap if the lower ball joint is replaced with one from a 1995 F150. That will give you 13" rotors and 4 piston calipers to replace the 11" rotors and single piston calipers you currently have. You must run a 18" wheel though. 1999-2004 Lightning wheels will bolt right up if you drill the lug holes to 46/64ths. I just did this to mine.

[Diabolic]

I know a guy that makes MAF conversion kits for these trucks and it will use a A9L mustang computer that is very common so tuning will be easy. It uses a Bauminator to control the transmission.

[Baba Ganoush]

I know a guy that makes MAF conversion kits for these trucks and it will use a A9L mustang computer that is very common so tuning will be easy. It uses a Bauminator to control the transmission.

Yeah I was just reading up on the "electronic" transmission, and how the current EFI system is bank fire instead of sequential. I never knew this about these trucks but it seems I'm headed in the right direction. Shoot me his info if you would as I will be starting this project in the next few months.

What is a bauminator?

Edit: so it's a shift controller correct?

[Diabolic]

If I were you here is what I would do.

408 stroker
AFR 185's
Baby Crower Roller Cam
Mac 1-3/4 Longtubes
Lightning GT40 U&L intake
30# Injectors
1.6 RR's
UD Crank Pulley
Mark VIII Fan
130Amp alt
Accufab 70mm Race tb
4" CAI

Stock Converter
Punisher VB
3" Exhaust
3" DI/DO Magnaflow Muffler

For Tuning I would buy a Moates Quarter Horse and an Innovate LC1 Wideband. If you install those on the truck I'll meet you out at Kennedale and help you sort out your tune. If you can get your hands on a C3P1, C3P2, C3P3 or ICY0 Lightning computer that would be even better! I'll get you Struckby's number for that MAF conversion in case you are still interested. The above listed would keep you speed density.

[Baba Ganoush]

Good deal sir, thanks for that info. I've been buffing this thing for 15 years and have barley had to turn a wrench on it. Now the prospect of breaking it wide open gets me all giddy.

[smokey3550]

392 stroker, 3.98 stroke crank (eagle about $220) 351 rods, use arp bolts, 302 HP pistons ( about $120) balance it, and you will need to either put 2.02, and 1.60 valves in your heads along with porting, or upgrade to gt 40's or aftermarket. Select a cam according to your needs, maybe a comp 270, I would talk to a cam rep they'll be happy to hook you up. A motor like that will hit 400 horse easy and if you want to step it up later it'll take that too.

[junk racing]

were about to put a 393W in a friends 92 F150....of course its a little more radical than whats listed....its a carb'd setup for cost reasons

[Baba Ganoush]

Good input so far. This is definitely not a budget build, but I am very familiar with that territory. I just wish I could build one to last like Ford has. The water pump went out just this past summer at 218k miles. I find that very impressive, enough to hang on to the old pump as a souvenir. It's almost hard to think about tearing into it when it's still running perfect. But it is a turd, a real slug, with sooo much potential. I want my father to really enjoy the next fifteen years with it.

[Diabolic]

My neighbor has a 93 Lightning with 275,000 miles on it! He just replaced the original alternator last month! Still runs like a top! Original everything, even the tranny!

[Baba Ganoush]

My neighbor has a 93 Lightning with 275,000 miles on it! He just replaced the original alternator last month! Still runs like a top! Original everything, even the tranny!

I'd love to have that. As time goes on, these trucks get better and better.