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I know that the stock balancers are prone to slipping/misaligning where the two parts are seperated with a rubber sleeve. They will either slip or wobble or something usually to indicate that they've moved. Is there any kind of indicator visually that will let you know if it has slipped? Is the slot in the damper where it mates up to the crank placed at a certain timing mark or anything? The reason I'm asking is I've wondered if the timing that I think I'm running is what I'm actually running. Manny wasn't able to put much timing into my tune when it was on the dyno and I'm wondering if the damper has slipped or if there's any way it's not accurate. I've also experienced what I would consider to be pretty hot exhaust related issues (burned plug wires, damaged coating on my headers, etc.) that may indicate a timing problem. Let me know your experience with stock balancers and timing marks.... thanks. BTW, I've got a new one on the way, but am curious if I can identify if the stock one is jacked.
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I just found this note. Maybe a way to check the old one.
"The factory damper should have the keyway at 28 degrees BTDC. You can check the keyway to the outer ring to see if it is in the correct position." -
Here's how you can check/index the front pulley. Pull out the #1 plug and insert a 3-4inch long 3/8 drive extension into the spark plug hole. Turn the motor over BY HAND in one direction until the piston hits the exstension. Look at the balancer and draw a line where it meets the timing marker. Turn the engine over in the opposite direction BY HAND until the piston hits the exstension again. Draw another line on the balancer right at the timing mark. Now in-between those two lines is pretty much TDC and should be 0 degrees according to the timing marks. I alway check this even when the balancer is brand new.Comment
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Will those two marks be 180* out from one another relative to the damper or closer than that?Comment
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Probably a few inches apart depending on how long/far you stick whatever inside the spark plug hole to stop the piston. Shorter is more better.Comment
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ok. I'll give it a check when I tear into it. The new one should be here today so maybe this weekend. Thanks.Comment
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Doug, Doug, Doug... I seem to remember saying this a LONG time ago.
Regardless, JW said it right - use a piston stop to find TDC.
If you do it the way he said to do it - your eliminating the marks and the keyway errors. The marks will be close to each other, what you are doing is finding the center by stoping the piston in the SAME place each time - but each place is "different" according to the cycle the cylinder is on. One stop will be a certain amount of degrees BTDC, one will be a certain amount of degrees ATDC - if the stop doesn't move, you should be exactly in the middle of those two events if you measure the distance between the two marks to find TDC.Comment
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Yeah, I'm sick of burning plug wires. I just ordered a set with 90* boots and am going to run them down instead of up on the passenger side. This combined with some additional heat sleeves, a new damper and checking the timing events hopefully will resolve my issues. I'm still running my original wires on the driver's side which have more airflow without incident, so maybe the timing isn't an issue, but I do have some of the coating breaking down on both headers though, so there's a chance something's not quite right.Comment
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SOOOO, YES, my damper was defiinitely fucked up. The rubber was in pieces and the timing marker ring was all kinds of wobbly. I did the test Jason mentioned above and it appears my timing was at least 10* too far advanced. I'm not sure exactly, but will find out once I've finished putting it back together. I've got the new damper on there and checked it and it's true to 0* per the test. I'll get it all back together and check the timing with the gun and find out exactly how far off it was. More to follow.....Comment
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Well, I got it back together and checked the timing. It's right on 10* where it should be. I guess the damper falling apart happened after I set the timing the last time. It's got a new damper on now, but I didn't find what I thought was the root cause of some other minor issues. I'm trying a little different plug wire routing this time so maybe that will fix the burned wires issue.Comment
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What type of balancer did you go with this time?Comment
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Nothing fancy... this Summit one. It's still a 2-part design.
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I was pricing balancers Friday because the one in my truck is separating, checked the local parts houses and Summit, and for the same Pioneer brand balancer Summit was around $40 higher. I didn't realize it but the one on my '86 f150 w/5.0 is the same as the Mustang 5.0s.
Just checked that Summit link, you needed the 28 oz balancer?
StevoOriginally posted by SSMAN...Welcome to the land of "Fuck it". No body cares, and if they do, no body cares.
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Sorry, that was the wrong link. It's this one. The only thing that was weird is that you have to use spacers and longer bolts where the crank pulley bolts to the damper.
Edit: BTW, you scared the hell outta me. I was gonna be pissed if I put the wrong damn one on there! LOL! I ran to the garage and checked the part number on the box! haha!Comment
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I've been using the Pioneer SFi balancers with excellenct results for a while now. There under 200$ and everyone I've checked has been dead on.
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