Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Coupe problems!

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Ive had something similar happen when I owned a fox.

    Solution was to pull over, turn off the vehicle, unplug my tweecer board from the A9L and replug it in. Ran fine after I did that. My guess it vibrated a little loose on the connector

    Comment


    • #17
      Another for the TFI module.

      Comment


      • #18
        Few tfi questions.

        I have a spare distributor from a 5speed. My car was originally an automatic. On parts look up when searching for a module it asks which transmission. Does that matter? Are they interchangable? How are they different?

        What thermal grease should I use? Where do I get it? I haven't ever seen any at autozone. Would artic silver 5 work? It's the best for CPUs on computers.

        My knowledge tells me that if the module was bad it would/could be more of a heat related issue like on other cars, like a crank sensor. Part gets warm and expands causing a break in the circuit or to much resistance. Stop and wait for it to cool down and it would be fine until it warms up.

        This is more random, and is cured by the flip of a key. What I don't understand is why would I t run rich unless it was something ECM related?

        320rwhp. 7.67 @ 90mph 1.7 60'

        DD: 2004 GMC Sierra VHO 6.0 LQ9 324whp 350wtrq

        Comment


        • #19
          Dirty injector? Bad injector driver in the ECM? I've been through 2 of them.

          Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 4

          Comment


          • #20
            Not arguing just trying to pick y'all's brains.

            320rwhp. 7.67 @ 90mph 1.7 60'

            DD: 2004 GMC Sierra VHO 6.0 LQ9 324whp 350wtrq

            Comment


            • #21
              Swap in the a9l and your chip and see if it goes away. That will atleast eliminate the ECM as the culprit. It will run fine on an a9p or a9l with Andys tune, I've been down that road with him.

              Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 4

              Comment


              • #22
                check your ignition switch
                Big Rooster Racing
                1985 Mustang GT

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by Josh.0 View Post
                  check your ignition switch
                  I posted the same thing but thought the afr staying at 11 kind of made it a moot point.. So I deleted it lol

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Just got done pulling codes, and checking the ECM.

                    I have 2 Evap codes, doesn't effect driveabilty so who cares.

                    And I had a throttle sensor out of range. So I Checked the tps and idle was .85 and wot was 4.6 so I moved it to .99x and 4.8, and did a few sweeps and didn't see any dead spots.

                    Also had a code 31 which I need to look up.

                    The ECM was fine, the ground wire was bent in an tightened down janky, so I went ahead and sanded the paint down and made sure it had a good connection. The pins ECM harness looked good, no burnt or corroded I went ahead and pulled the chip out and put it back in to be sure.

                    Haven't went out and flogged on it yet, it's pretty damned hot and people are getting off of work so ill have I wait until later when the roads are safer.

                    320rwhp. 7.67 @ 90mph 1.7 60'

                    DD: 2004 GMC Sierra VHO 6.0 LQ9 324whp 350wtrq

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Happened 3 times tonight. Had 1 good full pull and it dies when I shift. I think I'm hitting the fuel cut. It would die and come back to running fine.

                      Put and held 3 cars on a 430whp new camaro. Lol, he came around me at 125/130 but I was out of gear by that time.. Good run.

                      320rwhp. 7.67 @ 90mph 1.7 60'

                      DD: 2004 GMC Sierra VHO 6.0 LQ9 324whp 350wtrq

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        you should just replace the $250+ dollars worth of stuff people have mentioned and see if that fixes it...

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by 86lxttop View Post
                          you should just replace the $250+ dollars worth of stuff people have mentioned and see if that fixes it...
                          Man, why didn't we all think of this first. Thank you. Have anymore knowledge you wanna spread to the rest of us?

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Well just took it out and revved it to 6700ish (stock tach) and no problems. Drove it hard for a good 5-10 mins and no problems.

                            Ehh ECM I guess.:/

                            320rwhp. 7.67 @ 90mph 1.7 60'

                            DD: 2004 GMC Sierra VHO 6.0 LQ9 324whp 350wtrq

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Originally posted by 91CoupeMike View Post
                              Few tfi questions.

                              I have a spare distributor from a 5speed. My car was originally an automatic. On parts look up when searching for a module it asks which transmission. Does that matter? Are they interchangable? How are they different?

                              What thermal grease should I use? Where do I get it? I haven't ever seen any at autozone. Would artic silver 5 work? It's the best for CPUs on computers.

                              My knowledge tells me that if the module was bad it would/could be more of a heat related issue like on other cars, like a crank sensor. Part gets warm and expands causing a break in the circuit or to much resistance. Stop and wait for it to cool down and it would be fine until it warms up.

                              This is more random, and is cured by the flip of a key. What I don't understand is why would I t run rich unless it was something ECM related?
                              AFAIK, the TFI is the same on autos and sticks. Arctic Silver 5 will be fine, doing the same job. TFI's are finicky little shits. I have had them heat related and something as simple as keying it off and then back on. The most recent case is on the 85 thunderbird I bought off from here. Intermittent miss at idle and WOT,

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Had similar happen on the last coupe I had. Changed the TFI and voila.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X