Update: 1997 Toyota Camry Issues (timing belt)

[dville_gt]

Well, my buddy finally got his junker towed to my house (lucky me) and I got the top timing cover off, well, I assume everyone can see the problem here:



Quick recap: Got a call on NYE that his car just died on him suddenly, by the time I go over there his battery was pretty well gone but did have enough juice to try to prime the fuel pump. It wouldn't prime at all, got a replacement pump and jumped the car only to find that the engine sounded hurt (and pump still wouldn't prim). Through the advice on the board seems these Toyota's have a oil pressure switch that wont allow the pump to prime with no pressure, and since the oil pump is ran off the timing belt, and the timing belt is done, the pump wouldn't prime (yay for replacing good parts, especially in apartment parking lots).

Anyways, anyone ever done one of these, parts are cheap, but the AllData shows some Special Service Tool to get the crank pulley off, figure I might just be able to make something out of some scrap metal. Any input? Also, seems the waterpump gave up the ghost at the same time, either that or the waterpump going caused the timing belt to finally give up (original timing belt, 140k miles and 14 years of life).

Any input, ideas, theories, etc. are always appreciated, I hate working on POS cars like this, covered in grime, not interesting, etc. Ah, the things we do for our friends!

[Chili]

Well, my buddy finally got his junker towed to my house (lucky me) and I got the top timing cover off, well, I assume everyone can see the problem here:



Quick recap: Got a call on NYE that his car just died on him suddenly, by the time I go over there his battery was pretty well gone but did have enough juice to try to prime the fuel pump. It wouldn't prime at all, got a replacement pump and jumped the car only to find that the engine sounded hurt (and pump still wouldn't prim). Through the advice on the board seems these Toyota's have a oil pressure switch that wont allow the pump to prime with no pressure, and since the oil pump is ran off the timing belt, and the timing belt is done, the pump wouldn't prime (yay for replacing good parts, especially in apartment parking lots).

Anyways, anyone ever done one of these, parts are cheap, but the AllData shows some Special Service Tool to get the crank pulley off, figure I might just be able to make something out of some scrap metal. Any input? Also, seems the waterpump gave up the ghost at the same time, either that or the waterpump going caused the timing belt to finally give up (original timing belt, 140k miles and 14 years of life).

Any input, ideas, theories, etc. are always appreciated, I hate working on POS cars like this, covered in grime, not interesting, etc. Ah, the things we do for our friends!

The only advice I can offer is that most auto parts places will have specialty tools you can "rent". I would call around to see if anyone has what you need before trying to fabricate something or risk fucking something up.

[JimD]

What are you calling the crank pulley? Hamonic balancer or the crankshaft gear. The balancer just use a standard 2 jaw puller(its not very tight, i use a 3/8 ratchet and they come right off) and the gear just pulls off by hand(some might need a little wedge with 2 screwdrivers behind it). This is a simple job, line the points up put the new belt on, turn the motor twice and the points should be in line if you have done right. Ive done a shit ton of these,so any questions ask away.

[JimD]

By lining the points up i mean the cam and crank only, rest of the idler/wp don't matter. I sent you the info off alldata right?

[94mstng94]

Toyota belts have marks to line them up. Just aim the arrow on the belt toward the passenger side of the car.

[JimD]

Toyota belts have marks to line them up. Just aim the arrow on the belt toward the passenger side of the car.

Maybe a toyota part is marked but something from oreilys is not(gates) . With the exception of some dual cam engine belts, they are not marked.

[dville_gt]

Maybe a toyota part is marked but something from oreilys is not(gates) . With the exception of some dual cam engine belts, they are not marked.

Yep, you sent me the AllData.

I have a couple of questions, on t-belt replacement it shows the following:
1: The alldata shows removing the camshaft pulley with SST
2: It show removing crankshaft pulley with SST
3: The #2 idler with SST
4: The oil pump pulley with SST

Are all of these necessary to remove? And for those that are what special tools do I need?

And the alldata shows the AC compressor being removed for the waterpump swap, I assume that means just unbolt and move out of the way, I really dont want to evacuate the whole system.


I think he is going to opt for the cheapo-special from RockAuto. BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0291001 (Contains Timing Belt And Tensioner; Highly saturated nitrile): $49.79


And they have the waterpump w/gasket for $20.79 and I have 5% off coupon. I just wish my car had such cheap parts (BMW FTL)

Jim, do you think that the waterpump going out probably ended the long overdue life of the timing belt? There is coolant dripping from the pan right under where I believe the water pump is and coolant all over the t-belt and inside the cover. Not that it really matters, but it seems like saturating a already weakened belt might cause it to become softer and break.

[JimD]

Yep, you sent me the AllData.

I have a couple of questions, on t-belt replacement it shows the following:
1: The alldata shows removing the camshaft pulley with SST
2: It show removing crankshaft pulley with SST
3: The #2 idler with SST
4: The oil pump pulley with SST

Are all of these necessary to remove? And for those that are what special tools do I need?

And the alldata shows the AC compressor being removed for the waterpump swap, I assume that means just unbolt and move out of the way, I really dont want to evacuate the whole system.


I think he is going to opt for the cheapo-special from RockAuto. BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0291001 (Contains Timing Belt And Tensioner; Highly saturated nitrile): $49.79


And they have the waterpump w/gasket for $20.79 and I have 5% off coupon. I just wish my car had such cheap parts (BMW FTL)

Jim, do you think that the waterpump going out probably ended the long overdue life of the timing belt? There is coolant dripping from the pan right under where I believe the water pump is and coolant all over the t-belt and inside the cover. Not that it really matters, but it seems like saturating a already weakened belt might cause it to become softer and break.

First off, ill bet the w/p bearing is a major cause of the belt taking a shit, i suppose being exposed to the antifreeze isn't great for it. Only thing i can think you will have to pull is the harmonic balancer, unless the seals behind the cam/crank, oil pump are leaking. Now would be the time to fix them.
I do not recall touching the ac compressor at all except the drive belt. A standard balancer puller will work, you may play more hell finding some long bolts that screw into the balancer and long enough to work with the puller.

[94mstng94]

You should be able to screw the crank pulley bolt in a couple threads. With both hands, pull on the pulley while pressing on the bolt with your thumbs. This gets most of them.

If that doesn't work, spray some penetrant on the key way, screw the bolt in a couple turns and give it a few taps with a hammer. This should loosen it up a bit.

I never use a puller on these.

Chris

PS: Put factory parts on the damn thing. There is a reason they go 100-200k...

[94mstng94]

Maybe a toyota part is marked but something from oreilys is not(gates) . With the exception of some dual cam engine belts, they are not marked.

I was merely mentioning that the Toyota belt had marks...
I'm a fan of replacing critical parts with factory parts...

[JimD]

My boss won't buy factory shit unless it can't be had anywhere else. Not a bad idea tho.