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Capacitors for 220v air compressor?

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  • Capacitors for 220v air compressor?

    My heavy-duty old faithful air compressor wont startup now. It's a 220V unit and has two start capacitors that I suspect may finally be exhausted. Does anyone know where I can get these?
    Last edited by miketyler; 01-20-2011, 07:07 PM.
    Handyman, classic car and antique jukebox collector/restorer, and all around good guy.

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  • #2
    I would check with dickson tools in Irving. They rebuild compressors so they should be able to do something for you.
    Half of history is hiding the past.

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    • #3
      ^^^^^^^this
      Ring and pinion specialist

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      • #4
        Also heating and air conditioning suppliers or Granger.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by garycrist View Post
          Also heating and air conditioning suppliers or Granger.
          i meant to post grainger too
          Ring and pinion specialist

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          • #6
            There's one in RedBird area on my way home. Will ck them out. On a different note....

            This is an commercial unit that uses unloaders as a way to regulate air. The motor spins all the time. When desired pressure is built up, the unloaders kick in and the motor continues to spin the pump but the pump "free wheels". I'm not sure how this is a benefit, is there a way to convert this to electric type regulator?

            Maybe thise Dickson folks might know?
            Last edited by miketyler; 01-19-2011, 02:30 PM.
            Handyman, classic car and antique jukebox collector/restorer, and all around good guy.

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            • #7
              compressor for a gas engine it sounds like

              Originally posted by miketyler View Post
              There's one in RedBird area on my way home. Will ck them out. On a different note....

              This is an commercial unit that uses unloaders as a way to regulate air. The motor spins all the time. When desired pressure is built up, the unloaders kick in and the motor continues to spin the pump but the pump "free wheels". I'm not sure how this is a benefit, is there a way to convert this to electric type regulator?

              Maybe thise Dickson folks might know?
              They use this type on gas engines, you'll need a unloader, check valve , pressure switch/contactor to convert it over. I can check those caps and I have a few.
              Don't worry about what you can't change.
              Do the best you can with what you have.
              Be honest, even if it hurts.

              "Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy; Its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery" ... Winston Churchill

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              • #8
                Cool, they are both rated at 125VAC, one is 200MFD and the other is 400MFD. Any idea bout what it would cost me in parts to convert it?
                Handyman, classic car and antique jukebox collector/restorer, and all around good guy.

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                • #9
                  Good news, got them today from Granger, whopping $10. Bad news, it must be something else as the motor still hums and turns very slowly. The unit is a three cylinder Fusheng TA-65. Must be a damn good one because 25 years later and they still are selling them.

                  I took the motor apart and didn't see any damage. Its a big ass industrial type brushless unit. Will call Dickson tomorrow to see if they can help. May be looking at motor replacement.
                  Handyman, classic car and antique jukebox collector/restorer, and all around good guy.

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                  • #10
                    did you try it with the belt off?

                    if it has a belt, take it off and try it
                    Don't worry about what you can't change.
                    Do the best you can with what you have.
                    Be honest, even if it hurts.

                    "Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy; Its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery" ... Winston Churchill

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                    • #11
                      yes, took both belts off and tried it. No diffeence
                      Handyman, classic car and antique jukebox collector/restorer, and all around good guy.

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                      • #12
                        likely the start switch contacts bad

                        it's inside the motor on the back
                        cover. it's a set of points that a centrifical switch operate. if you want to try something, wrap a rope around the pully get the motor spinning and hit the power switch. when it starts use a air nozzle to blow it out while it's running. sometimes this fixes it. I'll be out of town hog hunting this weekend or I would come look at it for ya.
                        Don't worry about what you can't change.
                        Do the best you can with what you have.
                        Be honest, even if it hurts.

                        "Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy; Its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery" ... Winston Churchill

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                        • #13
                          Wow - damn skippy on that points thing. I fired it off and used the rope and she spun right up. I pulled the centrifugal switch and points plate off and looked at the contacts and they seem to be pretty worn. I dressed them up with a file and reassembled but still didn't seem to make any difference. It has to be making good contact for startup I would think. Do those point surfaces on those have to be pristine to initiate startup?

                          Really appreciate the help here, let me know if I need to buy new contact plate. Also the sealed bearing asembly is getting a little noisy.I woukldn't mind replacing that as well as looking into the conversion.
                          Last edited by miketyler; 01-22-2011, 11:40 AM.
                          Handyman, classic car and antique jukebox collector/restorer, and all around good guy.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by miketyler View Post
                            Do those point surfaces on those have to be pristine to initiate startup?
                            Bearings are cheap and easy
                            the points are made by a shaft mounted weight thing that centrifical force actuates to makes the contacts open when the motor spins and switches off the start capacitors. the mechanical part on the motor rotor can stick so the points never close. if you have a warm shop, I'll take a trip over and look at it
                            for ya, you live in cedar hill don't you?
                            Don't worry about what you can't change.
                            Do the best you can with what you have.
                            Be honest, even if it hurts.

                            "Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy; Its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery" ... Winston Churchill

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                            • #15
                              Yes, am in Lake Ridge near 67 and Lake Ridge Parkway. I pulled the centrifugal switch off and its making and breaking the contacts correctly. Still no start though. I replaced the caps with Dayton units with equivalent values as the old ones. They were smaller than the units I pulled out.
                              Handyman, classic car and antique jukebox collector/restorer, and all around good guy.

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