I have done this swap and currently have a 351 EFI in my coupe... there are some ways to do the swap and make it pretty cheap. It isn't too hard either.
Mind PMing me with your combo and any ideas you can give me ?
short block, pan, headers, intake, distributor and drop motor mounts, hood clearance is going to be a concern. I seem to remember a stock hood...
Yeah, I forgot to add in there the lower intake. Will convertible motor mounts work to lower the engine, or is there a specific drop mount for swapping a 351 ? I would really rather keep the stock hood, to give it at least a bit of stealth, but I wouldn't be opposed to putting a small cowl hood on it.
Haha, good luck there, junior. You're gonna need it. I've still got a junky old '55 Chevy 4 door that runs 7.30's whenever you get ready for that one.
LOL !
Mind PMing me with your combo and any ideas you can give me ?
Sure he can. But can he figure out how to rebuild it after he blows it up beating the guy that actually built his car ? LOL !
Yeah, I forgot to add in there the lower intake. Will convertible motor mounts work to lower the engine, or is there a specific drop mount for swapping a 351 ? I would really rather keep the stock hood, to give it at least a bit of stealth, but I wouldn't be opposed to putting a small cowl hood on it.
Wow, thanks for that brilliant insight.
Damn, I might just have to come pick that up ! Where are you located ? Need oil pump/pickup, cam, rods/pistons, obviously oil pan.....what else ?
-Aaron
grand prairie, you come pick it up and we can talk about some stuff i have laying around i wont need!
F4TE blocks seem to be popular up yonder (in Dallas)... generally harder to find in Austin.
If you find a non-roller block it's still easy to use roller equipment if you insist on it.
Summit sells Crower link-bar lifters for $239, which along with a roller cam, is all you'd need to take an older block w/ a solid lift cam & convert it to roller (pretty sure). Your pushrods will be shorter as a result, so you'll need those too.
351's have beefier dizzy shafts too, not just length.
Outside of the newer F4TE blocks (93 & newer), which are already machined for the spider & dog bones (flat spots between the lifters for the dog bones, lifter valley has 2 bosses tapped/threaded for the lifter hold-down tray bolts), I would look for a block newer than '83, as that's when they went to a single piece rear main seal.
Ronald Reagan:"Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it."
Homer: "Bart...there's 2 things I know about women. Never give them nicknames like "jumbo" or "boxcar" and always keep receipts...it makes you look like a business man."
Aaron - everything i've researched says you're going to have an extremely hard time getting an FI 351 under the stock hood.
Why not just do a 331 or 347? I would think the cost would be much less. You won't need engine mounts, hood, and other 351 supporting hardware.
Depending on how much power you want to make and your budget you could just re-use your GT40 aluminum heads and Cobra intake (maybe port them) and add better cam. You would still make good power and torque. Or sell the heads and intake and do an AFR or TW 347 with a Edel or Holly intake and make more power. Either way you should make 350-400 rwhp, which would be a lot of fun in your '86 with the T56 and 4.10's.
I think you should decide on a power level you want to reach and then buy the parts to get to that goal. I can tell you that if you reuse your Cobra upper, GT40 heads, stock HO camshaft, and some shorty headers, that you can expect about 325rwhp and 375-400rwtq with a smooth as glass idle. Should be enough to get you into the low 12's or high 11's without breaking a sweat or the bank. You could throw in a TF Stg1 cam with 1.6 Rockers or maybe even 1.7's if you use dished pistons. You will also need a 28oz flywheel and harmonic balancer, 351 accessory brackets.
Originally posted by TrueStreetMotorSports.comView Post
I have a 408W (mexican block) with a steel main girdle, head studs, oil pump, JE pistons, Eagle Crank and rods
$1600 come get it
Flat top pistons?
Ronald Reagan:"Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it."
Homer: "Bart...there's 2 things I know about women. Never give them nicknames like "jumbo" or "boxcar" and always keep receipts...it makes you look like a business man."
Aaron - everything i've researched says you're going to have an extremely hard time getting an FI 351 under the stock hood.
Why not just do a 331 or 347? I would think the cost would be much less. You won't need engine mounts, hood, and other 351 supporting hardware.
Depending on how much power you want to make and your budget you could just re-use your GT40 aluminum heads and Cobra intake (maybe port them) and add better cam. You would still make good power and torque. Or sell the heads and intake and do an AFR or TW 347 with a Edel or Holly intake and make more power. Either way you should make 350-400 rwhp, which would be a lot of fun in your '86 with the T56 and 4.10's.
Marcus
Are the spyder style intakes any shorter than a typical intake setup?
Aaron - everything i've researched says you're going to have an extremely hard time getting an FI 351 under the stock hood.
Why not just do a 331 or 347? I would think the cost would be much less. You won't need engine mounts, hood, and other 351 supporting hardware.
Depending on how much power you want to make and your budget you could just re-use your GT40 aluminum heads and Cobra intake (maybe port them) and add better cam. You would still make good power and torque. Or sell the heads and intake and do an AFR or TW 347 with a Edel or Holly intake and make more power. Either way you should make 350-400 rwhp, which would be a lot of fun in your '86 with the T56 and 4.10's.
Marcus
Like Paul stated in another thread, I'm thinking you guys are right. By doing a 331/347 I could keep all the shit I have and make it work. I have access to a free long block out of a '90 Bronco that I could use to build a 347. May just do that, get some AFR 185's or so, throw a good cam in it and go.
I think you should decide on a power level you want to reach and then buy the parts to get to that goal. I can tell you that if you reuse your Cobra upper, GT40 heads, stock HO camshaft, and some shorty headers, that you can expect about 325rwhp and 375-400rwtq with a smooth as glass idle. Should be enough to get you into the low 12's or high 11's without breaking a sweat or the bank. You could throw in a TF Stg1 cam with 1.6 Rockers or maybe even 1.7's if you use dished pistons. You will also need a 28oz flywheel and harmonic balancer, 351 accessory brackets.
You're right. I'm not real sure exactly what power level I want it at. I just want a fairly quick car, that retains all the street car amenities, and is reliable. I will be keeping the A/C and power steering.
Like Paul stated in another thread, I'm thinking you guys are right. By doing a 331/347 I could keep all the shit I have and make it work. I have access to a free long block out of a '90 Bronco that I could use to build a 347. May just do that, get some AFR 185's or so, throw a good cam in it and go.
You're right. I'm not real sure exactly what power level I want it at. I just want a fairly quick car, that retains all the street car amenities, and is reliable. I will be keeping the A/C and power steering.
Fuck that, I'll just take all out the bottom !
With the stroker, unless balanced differently, you will still need a 28 oz balancer and flywheel.
Easyest swap there is, use your heads, motor mounts, rad, cam, lifters, need an intake, pushrods, dizzy, your headers will work, truck intakes are a good place to start. If you have the $ you can do a great 392 stroker for really cheap. 3.98 crank, about $250, 351 rods, 302 flat top pistons and a balance job.
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