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  • #31
    Originally posted by Z06killinsbf View Post
    I'll sell you a good running 289/c4 combo. Put my car at a 13.9 with 2.80 gears.
    Already have a 302 so I don't really need that.
    "It's another burrito, it's a cold Lone Star in my hand!"

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    • #32
      A 351w/t5 combo will work great. Get an explorer 8.8 and run late model 17x8s. That will all go together relatively easy. (No major cutting)
      Putting warheads on foreheads since 2004

      Pro-Touring Build

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      • #33


        I intend to use something like this to get rid of the shock towers.
        sigpic

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        • #34
          Originally posted by dee View Post
          Mainly cruise but the possibility of a run down the strip on occasion (a few times a year at most).

          Not sure on wheels was thinking 16-17" but that was just to clear any half ass decent brakes.

          The trans isn't a big deal I have a fresh T5 but if I go 351 I want the added insurance of a tremec. From everything I've looked at so far the headers are the main concern with the 351 and power steering. I looked briefly at the conversions that run a rack and pinion but haven't done any research in depth. It may not be needed to much though as either motor will have aluminum heads so the weight will be similar to a 289.
          you can run a decent 4 piston brake under a 15" wheel if you want to. A 17" sn95 style wheel will need a spacer to fit, they dont clear the upper arm without it. If you know you are going to run a 17" wheel, the Vintage Vemom 13" kit. Mustang Steve has a kit as well, but it has flat steel brackets and bolts, and I dont really like that. Plus you still have to run a bolt on spacer, where it is built in with the VV kit.

          I opted to go with shorty headers over longtubes, simply because they wouldnt be in the way of a clutch cable conversion. They are listed as 289-351, so that might be an option for you as well. Plus they were like $95.

          The steering on these cars is pretty sloppy compared to rack and pinion cars today. I have a friend that was a mechanic at a ford dealer back when these cars were new, and he was telling me that they just had slop in them. Its not terrible, just not crisp.

          there are a few r&p conversions out there, and from what I understand, the good ones are 1000-1500. AJE has a conversion kit for the front end that uses a double sump pan, R&P, latemodel spindles and brakes, tubular arms and coil-overs.
          "If I asked people what they wanted, they would have said faster horses." - Henry Ford

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          • #35
            There's a lot of work involved with getting a decent size wheel and tire on the pre 66' mustangs and I personally think a 17" wheel looks out of place on them. You can make an early mustang look tuff as hell with a 15" wheel. I've never seen the 69-70 shelby wheels on an early mustang, but to me I think they are going to really make my car stand out amongst the average classic mustang with bullets.
            Last edited by HenryJ; 12-05-2013, 10:48 AM.

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            • #36
              Thanks for the info guys. The AJE parts look to offer the best bang since it allows the retro of fox or sn-95 parts. Now just to decide on engine trans combo and the body/ paint stuff.
              "It's another burrito, it's a cold Lone Star in my hand!"

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              • #37
                Pat picts
                "If I asked people what they wanted, they would have said faster horses." - Henry Ford

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by Baron View Post
                  Pat picts
                  huh?
                  "It's another burrito, it's a cold Lone Star in my hand!"

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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by dee View Post
                    huh?
                    Oh Jesus, post picts, sorry.
                    "If I asked people what they wanted, they would have said faster horses." - Henry Ford

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                    • #40
                      I will after I get it home.
                      "It's another burrito, it's a cold Lone Star in my hand!"

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                      • #41
                        I ran a 351 in my 64.5 mustang and used stock manifolds... Gasp... I know but it performed and worked well. I am interested in what it takes to run a t5 or tremec in my 68. What do you use for pedals? Mine is auto. Just sourced a 9" for mine and it sits on 20" kmc nova wheels for now (lots of hate). Keep posted on your progress sounds like a cool build.

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                        • #42
                          347, T5, largest disc brakes I could fit (Granada?), large sway bars, 15" wheels lie the red FB posted above, low enough to look mean....Done!
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                          • #43
                            Originally posted by Chas_svo View Post
                            347, T5, largest disc brakes I could fit (Granada?), large sway bars, 15" wheels lie the red FB posted above, low enough to look mean....Done!
                            That's kinda the direction I'm leaning after a bit more research last night. The front will still most likely get the AJE kit but the engine is most likely going to be 302 based (331-347) since the main problem with the 351 is headers as no company makes a real aoealing pair. Still planning on 5spd and an 8.8 out back though.
                            "It's another burrito, it's a cold Lone Star in my hand!"

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                            • #44
                              Originally posted by sickpony View Post
                              I am interested in what it takes to run a t5 or tremec in my 68. What do you use for pedals? Mine is auto.
                              I would like to know as well. I have a pedal set from an early Falcon, and would like to know if it is useable for a 68.

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                              • #45
                                Originally posted by cool cat View Post
                                I would like to know as well. I have a pedal set from an early Falcon, and would like to know if it is useable for a 68.
                                I used at cable conversion on the clutch, and ordered a pedal assy from a manual brake car. The brake pedal can be cut down if you cant find the brake pedal you need. Since I was keeping manual brakes, I needed a manual brake pedal to keep the ratio the same. The pedals were cake to swap, pull a pin and slide the old pedal out, slide the new pedals in, and put the clip back.

                                Since I was using the later trans, the cable conversion was the way to go for me. You can use a fox flywheel, but you need to have it balanced to match. Arlington Machine does it for like $50. Or you can spend about $250 getting a billit.
                                "If I asked people what they wanted, they would have said faster horses." - Henry Ford

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