Killer Chiller on a 2012 KB2.8LC GT

[Doug Hatton]

That you guys might appreciate this. I installed a Killer Chiller on my KB 2012 car this weekend. Pics and writeup below.

Saturday:
The KC/KB/GT/CS is alive! LOL! I took lots of pics for you guys. It was hot today, so I'm worn out, but will post some pics and impressions later. Long story short, how do IAT's that are 7* above ambient sound? They'll only get better since I haven't insulated any of the lines yet either. Intercooler fluid was around 65*. A/C was blowing 51* when I checked it, but was still cooling down.Today it was 97* outside. I'm pretty stoked!

I ended up completely removing my heat exchanger. Due to the size and location of the KB unit, it was MUCH easier to remove it and use the KC as a stand alone. I charged mine back with 134A, but that 12A I believe has shown a reduction in temps and is more efficient. I went ahead and bought everything so that I could do my own charging, so I may look into it down the road. I'm not too worried about removing the heat exchanger because I run the a/c during the winter with heat to remove moisture anyway.

Those temps were just driving around town. Cruising on the highway would probably be even better since there would be more air across the condenser.

I'm writing up an install for Joe and will post it after I get his blessing. For now, here are a few pics I took during the install.

https://www.box.com/s/ap1qphfcvb1szitl804d

Sunday:
Sorry guys, I'll get this to you as soon as I can. Just for the record, I was at around 105* on a 97* day running around town in stop and go traffic. I haven't insulated the lines yet so I think it will drop even lower. Fluid temps were in the 60's. It was pretty cool today to get into the car when it was cold and actually watch the IAT's drop the more I drove it. Usually it's a steady climb from ambient up to 140-150. I'll try to also get a good WOT log where I record the IAT2 because the temps are a little misleading when the throttle is closed and engine heat brings the readings up. Also, if you get a chance, download the Word Doc I linked a few posts up and let me know what you think about the write up.

Monday:
I recorded a few more temps last night, but frankly, they're so low, I'm reluctant to publish them! I'm using one of those laser gun temp gauges and it was showing the fluid at 51 and the air coming out of the vent at 31. IAT2 was around 97 with 90 degree ambient. I've got a Fluke Thermocouple I'll put a battery in and get some more readings. Also, keep in mind my reservoir is AFTER it's been circulated through the I/C and before the KC! I still haven't insulated the lines, and there should be some to gain there. So far, I've seen a 60-70 degree reduction in water temps and about a 40 degree reduction in IAT's. With room for improvement still!

[Badass2000GT]

Very nice Doug.

[shumpertdavid]

The IR temp gun won't be an accurate source as you stated, it has most always been considerably off when compared to a thermometer or thermocouple in the vent. It may be a little more accurate when checking the fluid temp in the reservoir however. It will be interesting to see how well the clamps hold up on the a/c lines compared to a bullet style crimp like a factory line. I would also be leary of how accurate your refrigerant charge amount is at this point if it was strictly pressure based. Did you vacuum the system down after the install.


Very nice work and install, the chiller is a cool product. I was at HPP once when they were finishing up an install, the Intercooler reservoir felt like ice water.

[bjtheman1]

Wow, if those readings are correct that is quite amazing. I too have been upgrading my cooling system, just recently put in the Ford Racing SVT Fan, 9-Bar Front Grille, AFCO Heat Exchanger w/o fans and using Royal Purple Ice w/coolant as well.

Been data-logging with my SCT Xcal-3 for a bit now and I've seen nothing compared to your readings!

[Doug Hatton]

I'll get a 2nd opinion on the temps with the Fluke. He claims the fittings are better than stock, but have no evidence of that. I put (2) cans of R134A in it with a 3oz can of PAG46 and was seeing pressures of 250 on a 97 degree day, which should be decent, no? What other method is there? I DID vacuum it down before charging.

The IR temp gun won't be an accurate source as you stated, it has most always been considerably off when compared to a thermometer or thermocouple in the vent. It may be a little more accurate when checking the fluid temp in the reservoir however. It will be interesting to see how ask the clamps hold up on the a/c lines compared to a bullet style crimp like a factory line. I would also be leary of how accurate your refrigerant charge amount is at this point if it was strickly pressure based. Did you vacuum the system down after the install.


Very nice work and install, the chiller is a cool product.

[Doug Hatton]

Just for the record, prior to the KC I was seeing IAT2's in the 40-50* above ambient range (140-150 on a 100* day.) Intercooler Fluid temps around 125* or so. If I turned off the car, then got back in it 15 minutes later it would be very soaked and struggled to recover. Especially in traffic. I'm sure the fans help push some air, which helps, but it's NEVER gonna be better than ambient, so they'll always be limited. The KB is similar in size as the AFCO.

Wow, if those readings are correct that is quite amazing. I too have been upgrading my cooling system, just recently put in the Ford Racing SVT Fan, 9-Bar Front Grille, AFCO Heat Exchanger w/o fans and using Royal Purple Ice w/coolant as well.

Been data-logging with my SCT Xcal-3 for a bit now and I've seen nothing compared to your readings!

[Rick Modena]

Just for the record, prior to the KC I was seeing IAT2's in the 40-50* above ambient range (140-150 on a 100* day.) Intercooler Fluid temps around 125* or so. If I turned off the car, then got back in it 15 minutes later it would be very soaked and struggled to recover. Especially in traffic. I'm sure the fans help push some air, which helps, but it's NEVER gonna be better than ambient, so they'll always be limited. The KB is similar in size as the AFCO.

As usual, that's a nice clean install Doug. Those temps are kick ass and I'm sure they can do nothing but help. Is there a way to mount that KC somewhere else and still be able to use the water/air intercooler?
Forgive the dumb question as I have done any research on the KC.

[Doug Hatton]

My original plan was to retain the Heat Exchanger up front, install the KC, and a 3-way valve that would allow me to run either or. HOWEVER, I got pressed for space and went the easy way out. The '03 Cobra and the GT500 had a smaller heat exchanger that would allow you to mount the KC on top of it. KB put a big heat exchanger in there almost as big as the radiator so real estate got tight. I'm sure there's a way it could be done, but I didn't try that hard once I saw what my option were. The good part is, I could still change some things around and keep the AC charged with a little slack in the lines.

[Rick Modena]

That's a hell of an idea Doug. The valve would give you the option of running the IC during the winter and the KC in the summer. And you can flip the valve at the track at any give time.

[Doug Hatton]

I actually bought the valve and everything else I needed. Nothing I've done is irreversible at this point, so we'll see. I may get creative and find a better way to do it.

[Rick Modena]

Yeah I too have been looking at where to install with the KB IC, it would be a PITA, unless you could go with the SVT IC or an aftermarket one is available.

[shumpertdavid]

Refrigerant fill is based on several factors, the more line and components you add the more refrigerant you will need. R12 was very forgiving because it actually blended with the A\C oil and helped to carry it through the system (this is also why when there was a leak it usually made a nice oily spot to help locate it. R-134-A differs in that it doesn't blend with the oil, but rather picks it up and carries it in suspension (think of shaking vinegar and oil), once the refrigerant flow stops it separates just like vinegar and oil will when you quit shaking it. The difference in how it carries oil is why the charge amount is important. A typical R-134-A system oil circulates @ 50% or the oil at any given time when system capacity is reached. When the system is low by as little as 10% it will reduce the oiling by 40-50% (so now you are only moving roughly 25% of the oil through the system). This is only important for the compressor as it's the only component needing lubrication. On a fixed orifice system, the correct fill is achieved when the evaporator core has liquid flowing from the inlet (at the lower part of the core) to the outlet (the upper part of the core) thereby efficiently carrying oil completely through. The only way to know for certain it is full is by checking the temperature differential between the inlet and outlet of the evaporator, they should be even +\- 5 degrees.


Now when I am not able to either get a confirmed refrigerant charge amount of location of components does not allow me to test the temp difference then I am pretty well forced to charge based on pressures, outlet temps, and experience alone.

[Doug Hatton]

You may be able to modify the brackets and shift the heat exchanger down. There are about 2" available to move it down before it hits the bumper cover. This MIGHT allow you to mount it above it on it's side. NOW the issue becomes piping the water to both items and the bypass all in front of the condenser.

Yeah I too have been looking at where to install with the KB IC, it would be a PITA, unless you could go with the SVT IC or an aftermarket one is available.

[Doug Hatton]

I am by NO MEANS even remotely experienced on auto A/C.... based on the amount of regrigerant, high side pressures and temp at the vent, I'm going to guess that everything is ok for now.

[Doug Hatton]

Oh yeah Henry, if you were running an AFCO it would mount to the back of the bumper and would probably create enough space between the HE and the condenser to install the KC. HOWEVER, I'm not planning on spending hundreds of dollars on a HE that I'm planning on bypassing in the summer months! LOL! But it WOULD most likely work.

Yeah I too have been looking at where to install with the KB IC, it would be a PITA, unless you could go with the SVT IC or an aftermarket one is available.