Did it start with the install of solid engine mounts. You've got 1 of 2 problems, either the engine and transmission is too far back, or the rear end is forward.
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Clutch/flywheel advice.
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Originally posted by 91CoupeMike View PostIt's alsmot like its too long, it doesn't slide into the transmission enough to clear the pinion nut. That was with the old seal with out the seal extension/fluid catch. Now it's all pushed up against the seal extension and makes a squeaky noise as the driveshaft rubs it.
Sounds like shumpertdavid is on the right track. Solid mounts will sometimes allow you to mount them "wrong," which is to say the Left on the Right and vice versa. It seems like a bunch of other stuff would be fitting funny though.When the government pays, the government controls.
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Originally posted by 46Tbird View Postlol... that ain't right, dude.
Sounds like shumpertdavid is on the right track. Solid mounts will sometimes allow you to mount them "wrong," which is to say the Left on the Right and vice versa. It seems like a bunch of other stuff would be fitting funny though.
Most of the vehicles I have worked on will compress the driveshaft into the tail housing as the suspension is compressed. I can't think of anything at this point that the distance shortens as you raise the vehicle.
I will agree that something is wrong if you are having trouble installing a driveshaft now. Something is likely not very happy when it tries to compress further.
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I got kind of the same thing. Not a lot of clearance the get the d/s in or out. It goes in with some wiggling. I have to turn the back u-joint a certain way to get it to clear the pinion nut and even then it just barely clears.
An also up on the trans, there is not a lot of the yoke showing once it is in.
granted, I am running a torque arm, which presents its own problems when I drop the d/s. Plus running a TKO-600.
Not a real fan of letting a motor "hang" when I pull a transmission. Maybe something tweaked when you did that?
Any adjustable LCAs that could possibly have moved the rear diff forward?
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Originally posted by 91GriggsGT View PostI got kind of the same thing. Not a lot of clearance the get the d/s in or out. It goes in with some wiggling. I have to turn the back u-joint a certain way to get it to clear the pinion nut and even then it just barely clears.
An also up on the trans, there is not a lot of the yoke showing once it is in.
granted, I am running a torque arm, which presents its own problems when I drop the d/s. Plus running a TKO-600.
Not a real fan of letting a motor "hang" when I pull a transmission. Maybe something tweaked when you did that?
Any adjustable LCAs that could possibly have moved the rear diff forward?
The cross member kits fine, bolts in the middle of the mount slots. My headers fit perfect too, so I don't think that's an issue plus all the exhaust.
Maybe it's something with the rear end? I have the issue Griggs explained, he just explained it better.
Now that I think of it, I noticed it when I changed over to a t5z after I blew up reverse gear in a regular t5. I had thought it was related to the differance in transmissions. But I have a regular t5 now. I had also thought maybe I had bent splines causing it to bind, but I checked and they're straight.
320rwhp. 7.67 @ 90mph 1.7 60'
DD: 2004 GMC Sierra VHO 6.0 LQ9 324whp 350wtrq
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The last time the driveshaft came out easy was when the car had fallen on me ( for those who remember). I was actually removing the driveshaft bolts when it happened, I know it had to have been easy to remove because I could only move 1 arm after the accident.
320rwhp. 7.67 @ 90mph 1.7 60'
DD: 2004 GMC Sierra VHO 6.0 LQ9 324whp 350wtrq
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