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Ok so I have a 2003 turbo mach 1 pushing about 8 to 10lbs. Up until Friday had been running great. But Friday I punched it getting on the freeway 2nd 3rd and then when I put it in 4th all he'll breaks loose. I lose a lot if power and the motor starts shaking like crazy, so I'm like fuck I just blew it up, (stock motor). But after about 5secs of the motor running it starts clearing up. So I limp it home and all it had was a minor misfire. So I get it home and pull all the plugs and all but 1 were fine, 1 had the arm bent down where it was touching the other part. So I gap them all back out and the car starts fine runs fine no noises nothing. But when I try to punch it it does the same thing losses power and starts shaking then clears up. So I replace the plugs and its the same. So the only thing I can think of is the coils. Anyone have any insight?
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Tesla Service Technician. -
its closing that one plug over and over?"If I asked people what they wanted, they would have said faster horses." - Henry Ford -
got a wideband? what do the plugs look like, did the plug close up again after you put new ones in?
And you say about 8-10 psi, do you have a boost guage to verify?
did you do a compression testOriginally posted by soapComment
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No plug didn't close again just the one time. A/f is about 11.2 when punching it but goes rich when it's misfiring but goes back to 14.5 when idleing. Haven't done a compression test. I have a turbo smart eboost 2 and I think I have a small boost leak cause when it's cold it sees 10lbs but when warm I see 8 to 9lbs when this happend it was at 9lbs
Tesla Service Technician.Comment
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the plug closing would indicate that something hit it. Pop a ring land? It is possible that the direct ground could have killed a coil too?"If I asked people what they wanted, they would have said faster horses." - Henry FordComment
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i have pics of the 1 plug and the others too if yall want to see those.
Tesla Service Technician.Comment
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This would be my concern. Something hit that plug to cause the gap to close up like that!Originally posted by Baron View Post
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2Originally posted by LeahComment
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somebody else said it could have been detonation that caused it to close. but idk, and the spark plug wasn't smashed or even scratched just bent down.Originally posted by black2002ls View Post
Tesla Service Technician.Comment
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a lean cylinder and boost can close a plug as well.Originally posted by soapComment
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If somethign broke in that cylinder that the plug was closed in it would most likely be having a problem at all times now. So it's breaking up at high load right... that usually is an ignition issue (weak coil, bad wires etc). In your case with the coil on plug setup and how common it is for them to fail my money is on a coil.
As stated above do make sure it isn't going lean though under load.
Unfortunately it seems damn near impossible for a Ford to set a misfire code unless it is missing every damn cycle. I used to take them out and put them in high gear at low speeds so that the RPM's would be around 1500 or so and put the pedal down and hold it as long as I could until the check engine light came on and identified the cylinder. This was when I was a tech and working on stock vehicles. You can do this but I would be a little scared to on a boosted car. Maybe do it in short intervals to get the light to come on so you know which coil to try.
I have had bone stock cars fold a plug tip like that for no apparent reason. Of 2 I am currently thinking of one did it one time and had no future issues, the other did it twice and had no future issues. Edit: Actually, car 2 came back a year later but it was the coil, not the plug. Car 1 was a Honda, car 2 was a Mazda, so there was no relation to each other or your car. Point is, that can happen regardless of brand or modifications. Keep your fingers crossed it was one of those funky incidents.sigpic
00 Camaro SS, stuff, tuned by Sam - sold
2004 GMC Sierra, tuned by Sam
03 CR250R crash test dummy vehicle
08 Yard machines mower, choppin up those blades
Originally posted by StephenComment
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yeah ever since i regapped the plugs i have 0 issues unless i punch it. so im gonna buy a single coil and go 1 by 1 and see if i can just find the bad one myself. and no the car goes rich when its starts misfiring, i have and a/f gauge in the car and have looked at it the few times i made the misfire happen. thanks everybody for the helpful information.Originally posted by 00pooterSS View Post
Tesla Service Technician.Comment
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You can see misfire counters looking at mode 6 data. It will show misfires long before the check engine lamp comes on. Test I'd 53.
I've got a full set of good used 4 valve coils I bought as spares when I had mind converted to cop, I've since gone back to coil packs and wires. Pm if interested.Comment
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Fords seem to be the worst about setting a light for missfire. Their parameters are very wide on misfire stuff."It's another burrito, it's a cold Lone Star in my hand!"Comment
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That's why the mode 6 stuff is so nice on the 96-2004 range, its better on the can-buss stuff (05 and up). It does require a decent scan tool to access it though.Comment
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We have had Fords IDS software at the shop for about a year now so I've been really spoiled."It's another burrito, it's a cold Lone Star in my hand!"Comment
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