Car was running fine, put a blower on it and had it tuned after I changed the injectors over to 42 pounders and ever since then it has ran weird intermittently. Sometimes it runs just fine, but then all the sudden it feels like a cylinder drops out and idles rough, runs lean, and lacks power. Then all the sudden it will snap
Post #10
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
I'll check my box of them at home. I think I have one out of an 88 mark vii in there, is that the right one?
I don't know. I'm confused honestly... I don't know the significance of the A9L... I know they are used for mass air conversions, but why not any of the other computers? I'm running a chip, so I'm not sure if it completely overrides the A9L's programming or just supplements it. And would my chip /tune work with other mass air computers? If so, which ones? Mark Vii? T-Bird? I see 7 different computers used for 88-93 5.0 mustangs with manual transmissions... Will all of those work?
I found this:
There is a hardware difference between an auto processor & a manual processor. The difference is because of the way the NDS [neutral drive switch, manual trans] & the NSS [neutral safety switch, auto trans] are wired. They are both wired to the same pin#30 but the auto trans wiring grounds the pin to the starter solenoid & the manual grounds to signal return, during crank mode there is a voltage spike sent to pin-30 so the auto trans processor has a diode on pin 30 where as the manual processor doesn't, most of the time this won't cause a problem unless you get into a prolonged crank condition. Long cranking can burn the "signal return" (pin #46) trace in a manual trans EEC.
I've been warning people about converting an auto to a manual and using the manual EEC with the auto wiring harness; those that want to convert their automatics to manuals, and swap the ECM, need to clip the wire going to pin 30 or else the ECM could fry the trace.
Atlantic Blue '00 - '03 Cobra motor and TKO600, solid axle, full MM suspension
Silver '01 Vette - D1 blown LS
I found this:
There is a hardware difference between an auto processor & a manual processor. The difference is because of the way the NDS [neutral drive switch, manual trans] & the NSS [neutral safety switch, auto trans] are wired. They are both wired to the same pin#30 but the auto trans wiring grounds the pin to the starter solenoid & the manual grounds to signal return, during crank mode there is a voltage spike sent to pin-30 so the auto trans processor has a diode on pin 30 where as the manual processor doesn't, most of the time this won't cause a problem unless you get into a prolonged crank condition. Long cranking can burn the "signal return" (pin #46) trace in a manual trans EEC.
I've been warning people about converting an auto to a manual and using the manual EEC with the auto wiring harness; those that want to convert their automatics to manuals, and swap the ECM, need to clip the wire going to pin 30 or else the ECM could fry the trace.
this is true but everyone will say youre wrong lol
Comment