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  • #1

    Re-installing A/C

    Several years ago my A/C was working intermittently (2003 s-10 2.2L). While attempting to change the spark plugs, I got pissed because the compressor was in the way, so I had the freon removed and pulled it off of the truck. Now that I am travelling a bit for work, I want to re-install the A/C. I found that the plug on the compressor was loose (electrical plug), but I am not sure if that was causing the intermittent cooling or not.

    I have a new accumulator and orifice tube, trying to decide whether to replace the compressor or not. A delco unit is about $400. I can get an aftermarket for about half of that. Any suggestions?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2
    Originally posted by Leah
    Best balls I've had in my mouth in a while.
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  • #2
    Cycle oil through the comp to flush it out. It's probably still good. Loose plug would definitely cause intermittent cooling. If the tab is broken on the plug I use a large dot of super glue on one side of the plug to keep it connected. Bad compressors dont cause intermittent cooling problems. If it's bad you wont get cool air unless the clutch is messed up. Fix the plug and try it. Did you evac the system before you charged it?

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    • #3
      Originally posted by stephen4785 View Post
      Cycle oil through the comp to flush it out. It's probably still good. Loose plug would definitely cause intermittent cooling. If the tab is broken on the plug I use a large dot of super glue on one side of the plug to keep it connected. Bad compressors dont cause intermittent cooling problems. If it's bad you wont get cool air unless the clutch is messed up. Fix the plug and try it. Did you evac the system before you charged it?
      I haven't re-installed it yet. I plan to re-mount the compressor and then take it to a shop so that the flush and re-charge is done properly.

      Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2
      Originally posted by Leah
      Best balls I've had in my mouth in a while.

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      • #4
        Is there anything special I need to do when putting everything together in regards to the o rings

        Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2
        Originally posted by Leah
        Best balls I've had in my mouth in a while.

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        • #5
          use new o-rings and lube them with a/c oil. Make sure you use the right oil for your system.

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          • #6
            Got everything mounted back into the truck last night. A google search said pag 46 was recommended by A/C Delco. Though the oil that was in the system was antifreeze green, the pag46 was clear. Had to pick up a couple of bolts this morning for the mounts. All that is left for me to do is to install the remaining bolts, tighten everything back down, change the belt, then take it to be flushed and re-charged and hope gluing the plug on the compressor works.

            Does $160 to flush and charge sound about right? I haven't found anywhere open on Saturday in Greenville that does a system flush, which leaves me to do it in Forney while at work one day.

            Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2
            Originally posted by Leah
            Best balls I've had in my mouth in a while.

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            • #7
              You can buy a flush can for $40 and a can of flush for $20. Then all you need is compressed air. Flush it yourself and then have someone evac/charge it.
              The oil in your system had dye in it so thats why it's green. New oil doesnt have dye so its clear. $160 is about right for a shop. If it includes freon then it's a decent deal. If you decide to flush it yourself make sure you only flush the metal lines/componets and blow air through the rubber hose.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by stephen4785 View Post
                You can buy a flush can for $40 and a can of flush for $20. Then all you need is compressed air. Flush it yourself and then have someone evac/charge it.
                The oil in your system had dye in it so thats why it's green. New oil doesnt have dye so its clear. $160 is about right for a shop. If it includes freon then it's a decent deal. If you decide to flush it yourself make sure you only flush the metal lines/componets and blow air through the rubber hose.
                They are only charging $40 to flush. The $160 includes flush, and recharge with the freon

                Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2
                Originally posted by Leah
                Best balls I've had in my mouth in a while.

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                • #9
                  Note that you can buy a 30 pound can of R134 at Sams for $88. A lot better than 12 ounces at a time for $15 per. For $160 you could buy some gauges, rent a vacuum pump and buy a canister of refrigerant yourself.

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                  • #10
                    I wil also need the flush, a compressor, etc. Thanks for the heads up, but it is worth it to me to know it is done properly! I would inevitably screw something up

                    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2
                    Originally posted by Leah
                    Best balls I've had in my mouth in a while.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by black2002ls View Post
                      I wil also need the flush, a compressor, etc. Thanks for the heads up, but it is worth it to me to know it is done properly! I would inevitably screw something up

                      Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2
                      For the sake of anyone else reading this- Dont flush solvent through a compressor. Turn it upside down and spin the clutch by hand until oil stops running out. Pour 2-3 oz of oil in the suction side and spin the clutch by hand.Then turn it over and spin the clutch by hand until oil stops coming out. Repeat the process until you have clean oil coming out. You have to do this with the comp off of the car.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by stephen4785 View Post
                        For the sake of anyone else reading this- Dont flush solvent through a compressor. Turn it upside down and spin the clutch by hand until oil stops running out. Pour 2-3 oz of oil in the suction side and spin the clutch by hand.Then turn it over and spin the clutch by hand until oil stops coming out. Repeat the process until you have clean oil coming out. You have to do this with the comp off of the car.
                        Good to know. I will pull the compressor and clean it out with the oil I picked up for the o rings

                        Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2
                        Originally posted by Leah
                        Best balls I've had in my mouth in a while.

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                        • #13
                          make sure you evac the system and make sure it holds if it doesnt your wasting your money on refrigerant. if it were me id put a new reman compressor on it just so i would know it had no problems and would last awhile

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                          • #14
                            Couple other things... drier and orfice tube out to flush also. The drier is THEY last thing to install. You will need to accurately measure the oil the system needs. IMO take the clear shit back and get the oil with dye in it. Once its back together before putting belt on spin the compressor 10-20 times by hand.

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                            • #15
                              Had the system charged today. It held vacuum so we put 1.75lb freon in it (snap on a/c machine). Initially the clutch wouldn't engage. Found I had pulled the 10A a/c fuse somewhere down the line. Clutch engages. Let it run for a bit. Low side showed 100. The guy said freon isn't circulating which means bad compressor.

                              Input before I drop several hundred on a compressor?

                              Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2
                              Originally posted by Leah
                              Best balls I've had in my mouth in a while.

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