Extreme engine building

[Mach1]

Title is a bit misleading but I am looking for some of the "black art" tips and tricks to maximizing a stock build, I figure some of this "secret" knowledge is out there. A good example is a NMRA factory stock motor, stock cam, gt40 heads and intake, and 300+++rwhp?

Another example stock 1.6 miata makes 95ish rwhp
a "pro built" stock motor makes 115+rwhp.

[Baron Von Crowder]

Title is a bit misleading but I am looking for some of the "black art" tips and tricks to maximizing a stock build, I figure some of this "secret" knowledge is out there. A good example is a NMRA factory stock motor, stock cam, gt40 heads and intake, and 300+++rwhp?

Another example stock 1.6 miata makes 95ish rwhp
a "pro built" stock motor makes 115+rwhp.

I heard a rumor that there is as much as a 15hp difference in stock miata computers. Ive also heard that the NMRA guys will do cam, intake and head swaps to get the highest # combo.

[turbostang]

THere's several things that would maximize performance - like, degree the cam for sure. Valve job is VERY important, and GOOD machine work. Torque plates and cylinder finish promote the best and most thorough ring seal.

[Mach1]

cylinder finish promote the best and most
thorough ring seal.

I hear ya on that, most machine shops don't seem to put much detail into the cylinder finish, any recommendations on one that does?

[SC457A]

Its all in the details. Every thing to make more power. lower rotating friction, lower end specs dead on, ring/ wall finish, blah blah. I only know NHRA's stock eliminator tricks. 0 weight oil (damn water if ya ask me).

[Blackpony]

As mentioned there is a ton of power in how the surfaces are finished by the machinest. Crank journal finish, bearing clearance, ring type and thickness, valve job, cam being degree, porting of the runners and the transition between the head an intake, etc... There is a shit ton of power to be had its just all in the details..

[jyro]

Title is a bit misleading but I am looking for some of the "black art" tips and tricks to maximizing a stock build

http://www.wellsracing.com/Pics/pict...ture%20010.jpg

heating and pressurizing the block to hone

http://www.wellsracing.com/Pics/pictures/Machines/Picture%20from%20old%20web%20003.jpg

http://www.wellsracing.com/Pics/pict...0web%20118.jpg

http://www.wellsracing.com/Pics/pict...0web%20119.jpg

http://www.wellsracing.com/Pics/pict...0web%20115.jpg

knowing how much oil pressure is enough (not having too much)

measuring, equalizing and maximize combustion chamber volume

Things like coated bearings, low tension rings, honed lifter bores, windage reduction

equal flow in all ports (might take many heads flowed to find a good pair)

being positively sure the valves seal 100% Vacuum testing when the valve job is performed.

Degreeing the cam in perfectly after it is run on Cam doctor to make sure it's correct ground on all lobes.

it takes many many many dollars to be competitive.

[Mach1]

http://www.wellsracing.com/Pics/pict...ture%20010.jpg

heating and pressurizing the block to hone

http://www.wellsracing.com/Pics/pictures/Machines/Picture%20from%20old%20web%20003.jpg

http://www.wellsracing.com/Pics/pict...0web%20118.jpg

http://www.wellsracing.com/Pics/pict...0web%20119.jpg

http://www.wellsracing.com/Pics/pict...0web%20115.jpg

Wow, impressive!

[jyro]

more tricks to be done to the chassis than the engine

like replacing the Timken tapered bearings on the pinion with ball bearings.
retractors on the calipers so theirs no pad touching the rotor till you apply the brakes. wind tunnel testing for stance at speed

all kinds of tranny stuff to reduce friction

ceramic ball bearings

lots of fluids that cost 30$ a quart or more

[jyro]

that's a shop in Duncanville

Wow, impressive!

two of my best friends, Dennis and Sharon Wells, Wells Racing Engines

[91CoupeMike]

Hmm!!

[SC457A]

If you want to go faster with less, find a stock eliminator racer. Knew a guy that had to slow down the car ( was too fast). Heaviest spare tire I ever felt.

[turbostang]

I hear ya on that, most machine shops don't seem to put much detail into the cylinder finish, any recommendations on one that does?

It's been a long time since I've watched any of the local machinists at work - most of the drag racers don't care as much about procedure, and therefore many machine shops don't do what I'm about to explain.

Sunnen (and I'm sure other companies) have a system for honing a block. To 'thoroughly' machine a block there's usually ~.005" left to hone out in order to straighten out a block. The block is first 'rough' honed with something like 180 grit stones down to about .002" or so, from there it's finish honed with 280 grit (?) down to like -.0001-.0004 or so. After that they use a textured, bristle stone that 'scrubs' the imbedded contaminants from the cylinders and removes the remaining few tenths. That's about as straight of a hole as you could ever make and as pure as they get. Obviously this procedure is only as good as the machinist and is totally null and void if torque plates aren't used since they emulate the cylinder head's clamping effect on the block.

I'm not totally sure that I'd agree with a pressurized block, as there's a lot of variables involved. First thing that comes to mind is that the block is pressure from the cylinders out, not from the waterjackets in. 2nd, I'd tend to believe that with core shift and differences in wall thickness there's no way to keep the resulting pressure consistent from one square inch to the next...

Also, not many machine shops in the auto industry work in a temperature controlled environment either - a 70* block measured with a dial bore guage that was in the sunlight could be WAY off....

[jyro]

pressure simulates inservice radiator pressure as does the temperature. proven hp increase.

Brooks, attend a PRI show, every year there are too cool things that are avilable. http://www.performanceracing.com/tradeshow/

http://epub.performanceracing.com/publication/?i=139602

[turbostang]

We are signed up, but not sure if we can make it this year.