How to tell if ball joints are bad?

[Lone Sailor]

Shouldnt have to move the rack. But fuck replacing the control ARM brushing. I would rather buy two new control area than deal with that again.

This. But only because I would upgrade to the sn95 spec FRPP lowers.

[bird_dog0347]

So as I recall from when I did the spindle swap the ball joints feel stiff to move in any direction with no play that I can feel in them just moving them on the control arm with nothing attached to them. If they were worn as bad as the shop said, I should be able to feel play in them with nothing attached to the ball joint right?



I am still going to replace bushings and clean the hell outta this crap, paint it to make it nice, then put it all back together.

[bird_dog0347]

So it took me longer to get the control arm off the car then it did to get the old bushings out, all you need is a torch and a beer. I also decided while I wait for my solid steering rack bushings to arrive I'd clean up the mess that's under there since this is the last of the parts I haven't replaced on the front end so far. The steering rack and control arm bushings are literally the last thing I need to replace sans the ball joints which are Moog and seem to be in fine shape as far as I can tell. I'm guessing Moog ball joints weren't stock which makes me think this has already had them replaced (they seem fine to me) and the shop I went to is full of shit. I still have to get the rubber residue out of the bushing holes on the control arm and the other side to do, and a long way to go... but when I'm finished the front end will be pretty much entirely replaced.

I also managed to get the headers (bought off member here) cleaned up as they had some kinda lime or coolant residue all over them and they were in need of a good cleaning, but for the price I paid I can't complain. While I was at it I cleaned up the spindles as they were thrown on there with all the standard rust still on them from years of use and I know no one will ever see this but I want it done right and looking good.

Pics so far.

How the spindles looked before:


Now:



Headers (no before shots):


Control arm with bushings removed:

[dee]

Looks like you had some fun.

[Hobie]

Since your using sn95 spindles, go ahead and get moog 95 ball joints. This gets rid of the spacer that you "should" have on their now.

Hopefully the new control arm bushings don't have "shells"
You'll have to burn/ drill out old stock ones. The factory shells are a pita to remove without proper tools.

Just rent a ball joint press and do it your self

Came here to make pretty much this exact post. Get the balljoints from RockAuto - been a minute since I checked, but moog 94/95 balljoints were about $~50 for the pair from them IIRC.

[bird_dog0347]

I got the driver's side cleaned up and the bushings installed, I'm going to get some ball joints tomorrow or Wednesday if work doesn't beat me down too much. For the low cost there's no reason not to do it now while it's apart. My steering rack bushings should be here on Wednesday as well. The biggest bitch of this whole job is gonna be re-installing the control arm in the K Member. It was really tough to get it out and it's gonna be a super tight fit unless I can spread the K member A-Arm mounts a little. Tricks or ideas?

[onjacks]

get some all thread and put 2 nuts in side the "ears".

that may spread them apart. may have to tighten/loosen the nuts at the same time

Or BFH!

[onjacks]

also, if you have trouble holding the springs in the lower pocket, put a ratchet strap around a coil and pull in inward from the other side.

That's how i always do it with stock/drag launch springs.

They tend to pop out while trying to compress.